- — 



Home mechanic's 

Workshop Companion 




TELLS HOW TO DO MANY USEFUL 
ELECTRICAL AND MECHANICAL THINGS 
INCLUDING NUMEROUS SHOP KINKS 

<3jr 
ANDREW JACKSON JR. 



(D 



EVERYDAY ENGINEERING SERIES 

NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 
Z WEST 45 TH. STREET, NEW YORK 

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 826 521 3 



HOME MECHANIC'S 
WORK SHOP COMPANION 



A complete manual for all who are interested in the equip- 
ment and use of the home workshop outlining wood 
and metal working tools needed, workbench con- 
struction, bench furniture and supplies, special 
tools and shop expedients, construction 
of useful home appliances, how to do 
things electrical and helpful 
recipes and formulae 

BY 

ANDREW JACKSON, JR. 

SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR " EVERYDAY ENGINEERING MAGAZINE " 




A BOOK FOR THE EVERYDAY MAN WHO LIKES 
TO WORK WITH TOOLS 

Contains many useful shop kinks and is thoroughly illus- 
trated with hundreds of "thumb-nail" sketches made 
by the author and complete working drawings 
for making useful shop furniture 



NEW YORK 

THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 

2 West 45th Street 
1920 






COPYR 


ighted, 

BY 


1920 


The Norman W. 


Henley 


Publishing Co. 



PRINTED IN U. S. A. 



APH 21 1920 
©CU565628 



Composition, Electrotyping and Press Work 
By Publishers Printing Company New York 



INTRODUCTION 

For a number of years past, the author has derived 
considerable pleasure and has spent a portion of his 
spare time profitably in a small workshop located in 
his home. He has been very much interested in trying 
out many hints and kinks that have appeared in the 
current issues of the mechanical periodicals, and has 
kept a note book and made sketches of the many 
devices constructed that have proven useful about the 
home and shop. 

The most practical and useful of the numerous sug- 
gestions tried have been grouped under chapter head- 
ings to make for logical presentation and easy refer- 
ence, and the many devices illustrated and described 
cannot fail to be helpful and suggestive to men of 
mechanical bent. 

The construction of a shop bench and the items of 
tools and supplies that will be found useful in making 
light repairs to the home and its furnishings are con- 
sidered because it is believed that many men who 
are about to establish or amplify small workshops can 
obtain suggestions that may help them from the 
experience of the author, who is not a mechanic by 
trade, but just a self-trained handy man who likes to 
use good tools in "puttering" around the house. Many 
light repairs have been made at a material saving that 
would otherwise have called for more expert, and 
needless to say, more highly paid mechanics than the 
writer. Any man or boy will find that a knowledge 

3 



4 Introduction 

of the use of ordinary tools for working wood and 
metal will come in handy in many ways, and provide 
entertaining and profitable employment for time that 
is ordinarily wasted. 

ANDREW JACKSON, Jr., 
New York City. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I 

THE HOME WORKSHOP AND ITS EQUIPMENT 

Selection of Shop Space — Construction of Workbench — Simple 
Bench Furniture — Keeping Tools in Their Places — Tools and 
Equipment — Lighting the Workbench — Combined Sawhorse 
and Tool Carrier — Wood-working Tools — Metal-working 
Tools — Supplies for Home Workshop 9 to 43 



CHAPTER II 

SPECIAL TOOLS AND SHOP EXPEDIENTS 

Two- foot Rule for Laying Out Angles — Lamps for Fine Solder- 
ing — Soldering-iron Heater — Non-Spilling Acid Cup — Home- 
Made Blow Torch — Improvised Tools — Wooden Hacksaw 
Frame — Cabinet Scraper Handle — Inexpensive Marking 
Gauge — Stunts With Hammers — Soft Faced Hammer — 
Wedging Hammer Handles Securely — Stowing Away the 
Nail Set — Repairing Cracked Hammer Handle — Emergency 
Wrench for Turning Pipe — Kink for Sharpening Skates — 
Small Jaws for Holding Screws — Home-Made Expanding 
Bolt — Insulating Plier Handles — Use of Drill Gauge — Re- 
moving Stud Bolts — Simple Saw Clamp — Extemporized Saw- 
ing Gauge — Repairing Wood Boring Bits — Screw Inserting 
Tool — Soldering Iron Kinks — Simple Pipe Wrench — Using 
Wrench for Pipe Cutting — Suggestions for the Home Painter 
— Simple Paint Brush Wiper — Keeping Brush Handle Clean 

— Handle Hook — Extension Handle for Brush 44 to 64 

5 



6 Table of Contents 



CHAPTER III 

USEFUL HOME APPLIANCES 

Keeping Ladder from Slipping — Practical Ladder Extension — 
Easy Rest for Feet — Metal Scaffold Bracket — An Intermedi- 
ate Ladder Step — Using One Lock for Three Drawers — 
Double Bolt for Door — Secure Locking Means — Furnace 
Door Opener — Furnace Door Stop — Automatic Draft Open- 
ing Means — Broom Hanger — Skirt or Pants Hanger — Easily 
Made Door Spring — An Economical Door Stop — Useful 
Kitchen Appliances — Easily Made Pan Cover — Holder for 
Milk Bottles — Drinking Glass Holders — Keeping Spoon Out 
of Kettle — Home Water Works — Garden Hose Repair — 
Keeping Hose Packing Washers in Place — Repairing Leaky 
Faucet — Home-Made Hose Reel — Useful Hand Trucks — 
Package Carrier for Bicycles — Picture Frame Hanging Made 
Easy — Metal Corners From Tubing — How to Fasten Floor 
Boards — Making Wood Screws Tight — Raising a Sagging 
Door — Efficient Cord Cutter — Locating Drain Pan — Prevent- 
ing Splash of Waste Water — Cleaning Dirt Out of Corners — 
Combined Broom and Ice Pick — Sleeve Pressing Board — 
Ironing Board Support — Shoe Polishing Stand — Indoor 
Clothes Hanger — Improving Linen Closets — Storing Kettles 
and Pans — Trouser Hanger for Closet — Installing Curtain 
Pole — Using Electric Flat Iron for Stove — Range Boiler 
Repairs — Cheap Candle Lamp — Keeping Soot in Stove Pipe 
— Clipping Trees Without a Ladder — Doubling Capacity of 
Spring Balance — Simple Magazine Rack — Cabinet for Wood- 
working tools 65 to 111 

CHAPTER IV 

HOW TO DO THINGS ELECTRICAL 

Electric Bell and Annunciator Wiring — Push Button Construc- 
tion — Electric Wires and Wiring — Simple Batteries — Dry 
Cells — Wiring Dry Cells — Electric Bell Construction — 
Simple Bell Circuits — Conventional Domestic Installation — 
Joining Wires — Overflow Alarm — Simple Annunciator — Elec- 
tric Alarm Clock — Simple Fire Alarms — Simple Terminals — 
Magnetizing Shears — Using Partly Worn Zincs — Cost of 



Table of Contents 7 

Operating Electric Cooking and Heating Devices — Electri- 
cally Operated Door Locks — Replacing Defective Fuses — 
Simple Attachment Plugs — Controlling One Lamp From Two 
Points — Home-Made Night Light — Drop Light Adjusters. 

112 to 141 



CHAPTER V 

HELPFUL RECIPES AND FORMULA 

Cleaning Waste Pipes — A Superior Whitewash — Silvering Metals 
— Writing on Steel — Black Lacquer for Metal or Wood — A 
Good Polish for Brass — Filling for Cracked Ceilings — Filling 
Cracks in Floors — Fastening an Umbrella Handle — To Frost 
Glass — To Brighten Silver Plated Articles — To Remove Rust 
From Steel — Cleaning Marble — Cleaning Paint — Removing 
Hard Wax and Candle Grease From Cloth — To Remove Soft 
Grease Spots From Fabrics — Preparation for Cleaning 
Gloves — Eradicating Ink Stains — Miscellaneous Cements and 
Adhesives — Marine Glue — Glue to Resist Damp — Rubber 
Cement — Cement to Mend Crockery — Cements for Pipe Joints 
— Cement for Iron — Paste for Sticking Paper Labels to 
Glass, Wood or Metals — Adhesive Material — Alum and 
Plaster-of Paris Cement — Indestructible Writing Ink — Re- 
moving Ink Stains From Wood — Preserving Leather — Oiled 
Dust Cloth — Detection of Gas Leaks — How to Read a Gas 
Meter — Cleaning Stove Pipes — Varnish for Stove Pipes — 
French Polish Revivers — Paints for Boiler Fronts. 142 to 154 

Index 155 to 159 



Home Mechanic's Workshop 
Companion 



CHAPTER I 

THE HOME WORKSHOP AND ITS 
EQUIPMENT 

Selection of Shop Space— Construction of Workbench— Simple 
Bench Furniture— Keeping Tools in Their Places— Tools and 
Equipment— Lighting the Workbench— Combined Sawhorse 
and Tool Carrier— Wood-working Tools— Metal-working 
Tools— Supplies for Home Workshop. 

The man who likes to work with tools is found in 
many different walks of life; some have mechanical 
trades and some are business and professional men. 
The workshop equipment naturally varies with the me- 
chanical skill of the owner and the character of work 
he wishes to do. Some home mechanics, interested 
in model making and experimental science, have very 
complete shops, with a lathe and other mechanical 
equipment. This treatise is not intended for a me- 
chanical expert or a man carrying on experiments of 
an electrical and scientific nature. It is intended as 
a handy manual for the average man who desires to 
rig up a small shop where he can do odd jobs in 
constructing household appliances, making needed 
light repairs to the home and its furnishings and spend 

9 



10 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

long evenings to advantage in building simple pieces 
of cabinet work. 

Selection of Shop Space. — The important require- 
ment in the location of the shop is that it be situated 
in a clean, light, warm and well ventilated place. If 
a suitable small building is available, such as a sec- 
tion of an automobile garage, as many handy men are 
also car owners, the problem is easily solved. If only 
light work is to be done, an attic room may be con- 
verted for shop purposes, but if heavier work is to be 
attempted, such as building substantial furniture or 
perhaps a small boat, then the shop should be located 
in a more accessible place. The basement of the 
modern home is usually well suited for shop purposes, 
as it is dry and warm in the winter because of the 
furnace location. The problem of lighting is easily 
met by the almost universal use of electricity in pres- 
ent day homes and there is always some corner con- 
venient to an areaway where sufficient daylight is 
available. Large objects are more easily brought into 
or carried out of the cellar than the attic. 

The point to be impressed on the average home 
mechanic is that much time is saved and work is 
more easily done when working conditions are good. 
The shop should have a good workbench, cabinets or 
chests for tools and supplies and an adequate amount 
of such small hardware as is necessary to take care 
of the ordinary odd jobs. Tools should be of good 
quality, because such tools last a lifetime if given 
ordinary care, while cheaply made tools are never 
satisfactory, and should not be purchased, because any 
money expended for them is practically wasted. One 
can do accurate work only with good tools. A dull 
saw or chisel that will not hold its edge — is an abomina- 
tion, and many men who really have mechanical ability 
are discouraged in their attempts to do work by the 



The Home Workshop 



11 



handicap of improper tools. While a large variety of 
tools for both wood and metal-working purposes are 
to be described, the selection naturally rests on the 
individual, who should purchase those that are needed 
and best adapted for the work in hand. The list of 
supplies is given only in a suggestive sense, as many 
of the materials mentioned can be purchased as re- 
quired. More tools will be needed if one intends to 



^''Bcrck Board 



Shelf Boards 




Fig. 1. — Simple and Substantial Workbench for Home 
Workshop Use. 



work both wood and metal than if wood alone is to 
be the medium for expressing one's mechanical ability. 
The storage of tools is important. They should be 
kept clean and dry so they will not rust and be 
stored away in such a way that cutting edges will not 
be damaged or the tools distorted. Saws should be 
hung in cabinets, planes kept in boxes or laid on 
their side in a special place where other tools will not 



12 



Home Mechanic s Workshop 




£JL 



„9h— •» 



-„S£-~- ' * 




£<— -„<?A--> 



Construction of Workbench 13 

come in contact with them. Drills and bits should 
be kept in drilled wood or metal blocks. Files should 
never be thrown in promiscuously with other tools. 
Chisels ought to be kept as sets in racks or boxes 
and their cutting edges protected. The main thing 
is to have a place for everything and to keep every- 
thing in its place. 

Construction of Workbench. — The most important 
item of workshop equipment and the real basis of the 
shop is the workbench. These vary in construction 
from roughly boarded packing boxes and old tables 
to very complete and elaborate factory made benches 
almost as complex as a kitchen cabinet. The bench 
shown at Fig. 1 is a substantial yet simple work- 
bench that can be made by any handy man with tools 
at much less cost than the expense of purchasing one 
of as good quality ready-made. It is a handy size 
that has been used by the writer in his own small 
shop with excellent results. The drawer provides 
ample accommodation for small tools and supplies, the 
shelf beneath can be used for keeping more bulky ob- 
jects off the floor. While two vises are shown the one 
at the end of the bench for handling short work can 
be replaced with a metal machinist's vise and then the 
bench becomes suitable for both wood and metal 
working. 

The working drawings at Fig. 2 give all the im- 
portant dimensions and details at Figs. 3 and 4 will 
further clarify the explanation. The over-all dimen- 
sions are 6' 6" long, 3' 3^" high and 30" wide. 
Either birch or maple may be employed as both of 
these woods make a very good bench. Oak or ash legs 
and rails and ash planking will also be a very satisfac- 
tory combination. The necessary stock may be pur- 
chased from any lumber mill ready planed and cut to 
length, in which case considerable labor will be saved. 



14 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

The following is a bill of material if dressed lumber is 
purchased : 

Name of Part Number Required Size 

Bench Legs 4 3" x3" x 36" 

End Rails 2 3" x3" x 24" 

Side Rails 2 3"x3"x 62^" 

Back Board 1 ^"x9"x80" 

Top Board (Front) 1 2" x 12" x 77" 

Top Board (Center) 1 y % " x6" x77" 

Top Board (Back) 1 %" x 12" x 77" 

Crosspieces 2 I>4"x3"x30" 

Clamps for Vise 2 l l / 2 " x 6 l / 2 " x 12" 

Vise Clamp Guides 4 2" x 2" x 18" 

Screw Blocks 2 3" x 3" x 6" 

End Piece 2 I^"x8"x30" 

Shelf Boards 2 7/ 8 "x8"x 30" 

Shelf Boards 2 %" x 6" x 30" 

Drawer Front 1 %"x9"x24" 

Drawer Back 1 %" x 9" x 24" 

Drawer Sides 2 %" x 8" x 22" 

Drawer Bottom 2 %" x 6" x 24" 

Drawer Bottom 2 %" x 5" x 24" 

Cleats for Drawer Side 2 1" x 1" x 22" 

Slides for Drawer 2 %" x 2^4" x 24" 

Slides for Drawer 2 1" x 1" x 24" 

Besides the wood pieces enumerated above, various 
items of hardware will be needed. These include one 
drawer handle, two dozen %" x 5" lag screws, 2 doz. 
Y%" iron washers, 3 doz. wood screws about \ l / 2 " long, 
1 pint linseed oil and 2 malleable iron vise screws 
complete with handle, collar bearing and nut as 
shown at Fig. 5, this screw being about 1" or l 1 /^" in 
diameter and 24" long. Wooden vise screws can be 
obtained, but these are not as satisfactory as the iron 
ones and not much cheaper. If the worker desires 
he can obtain a very satisfactory carpenter's bench 
vise as shown at Fig. 5, this being purchased complete 
and ready for installation to the bench side or end. 



Construction of Workbench 15 

Of the lumber specified, the material for the center 
and back top boards, the back board, the shelves and 
for making the drawer need not be anything more 
than pine as no great wear comes upon these parts. 
The bench top front board should be of maple or 
birch, also the vise clamp and bench end pieces. The 
legs may be of maple, birch, oak or ash, the end rails 
and side rails of any of these woods. The wood 
should be clear grained, free from knots or checks 
or surface blemishes. 

The first step is the construction of the lower frame. 
As the rails are held into the posts by mortise and 
tenon joints, reinforced by an iron lag screw as shown 
at Fig. 4, the first step is to cut the tenons on the 
ends of each rail, side or end, and the corresponding 
mortises in the bench legs. The tenons are 2" square 
by 1" deep, so the mortised-out places on the legs 
must be of corresponding size. The mortises for the 
side rails are cut \2y 2 " from the end that is to rest 
on the floor, those for the side rails are cut I5y 2 " 
from the end. When the mortise and tenon joints 
are made, the rails are assembled to the legs. A }i"- 
hole is drilled through each leg into the center of the 
mortise and a *4" no ^ e mto the tenon at each end 
of the rail about an inch in depth. The legs and 
rails are then fastened securely together by the 5" x 
Y%" lag screws, the threads of the screw being covered 
liberally with yellow soap to insure its screwing into 
the rail end easily. An iron washer is placed under 
each lag screw head to prevent its sinking into the 
wood. The crosspieces are fastened to the top of 
the legs by lag screws, the heads being countersunk 
or wood screws may be used of about ^4" shank and 
4" long. An alternative to counter-sinking the screw 
heads if lagscrews are used is to drill holes in the 
bottom of the top boards to fit over them. The front 



16 



Home Mechanic's Workshop 




Construction of Workbench 17 

top board is then fastened to the crosspieces by sub- 
stantial screws, such as short lags, put in from the 
bottom and the screw should not be over 2y 2 " long. 
The center and back top board may be put in and 
held with screws from the top. 

The next step is to cut the mortise and tenon joints 
in the clamp board and clamp guide pieces and assem- 
ble as shown at Fig. 3. A hole is bored through for 
the bench screw as indicated. The tenons are set in 
glue and held securely by a countersunk head wood 
screw about 3" long. The vise or bench screw block 
pieces are fastened to the bottom of the bench and a 
hole bored through, using that in the clamp board as 
a guide for the nut of the vise screw. The end board 
is provided with square holes to take the clamp guides 
or slides and a round one providing clearance for the 
vise screw. It is then fastened to the legs by substan- 
tial countersunk head wood screws. 

The back board is then fastened in place with wood 
screws. The installation of the shelf boards is a very 
simple matter, these being placed on top of the side 
rails and secured thereto with wood screws. The 
pieces comprising the drawer are assembled with nails 
or screws, the latter being preferred. The back and 
front pieces are fastened to the sides, all four pieces 
lining up at the top. This will leave the front and 
back of the drawer projecting down 1" from the sides. 
When the drawer bottom boards are nailed on across 
the sides, this space is taken up, and the drawer be- 
comes a box 24" square by 9" deep outside and 8" 
deep inside. The 1" square cleats are fastened along 
the top of the drawer sides with screws and the drawer 
slides are attached to the bench top under side as 
shown at Fig. 4. 

An alternative method of drawer support is shown 
at Fig. 4, B. In this, the 1" angle iron slides are bolted 



18 



Home Mechanic s Workshop 




Simple Bench Furniture 



19 



or riveted to the drawer side and these work on metal 
guides composed of Y\" x 2" iron bars of rectangular 
section screwed through wood spacer cleats y 2 " x 1" 
to the bench. After the bench is assembled, all the lag 
screws in the frame are tightened up. Then the bench 
is gone over with sandpaper and smoothed, after 
which the smooth surfaces are given a couple of coats 




Malleable Iron Bench Screw 




Q Bunsen 

Burner 



Carpenters Vise 




Fig. 5. — Useful Items of Bench Equipment Showing Malleable 
Iron Bench Screw and Carpenter's Metal Vise. 



of linseed oil which not only preserves the wood but 
also gives it a good finish. 

Simple Bench Furniture. — There is a certain amount 
of bench equipment, such as stops, etc., that can be 
purchased very cheaply. A simple stop that can be 
placed at the end of a bench to hold the end of a board 
in place when planing it on the flat side is shown at 
Fig. 6, A. This is easily made of two pieces of hard 
wood, two iron washers and two lag screws. The 
vertical piece may be adjusted up and down to com- 
pensate for the thickness of the piece, the horizontal 
piece serves as a clamping member. In moving the 
vertical piece, it is necessary to slack the lag screws 



20 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

out slightly to release the clamping pressure. This 
can also be used as a vise for holding small work. 

The clamp or vise shown at B, Fig. 6, is easily made 
by any blacksmith and it may be used either vertically 
by passing it through a hole in the bench top or as a 
vise for holding work at the bench end by providing 
a suitable hole for the screw rod to pass through. 
The construction is so clearly shown that further de- 
scription is unnecessary. 

The simple fixture shown at Fig. 6, C, is of value 
when light wood pieces such as molding is to be 
sawed, and by cutting saw slots at various angles in 
the stop board at the end as a guide, it serves as a 
simple and effective miter box. It is also handy in 
holding short pieces of wood, such as blocks, when 
these are to be planed. It is made of a piece of y%" 
board about 8" wide x 14" long, and two pieces as 
stops, one y&" x 2" x 8", the other the same width and 
length but only y 2 " thick. To use this fixture, it is 
merely placed on the bench and pushed against one of 
the stops, the work being rested against the other as 
shown. The object of having one stop shorter than 
the other is so that wood less than %" thick can be 
planed by placing it against the thin stop piece instead 
of the thick one. The end pieces may be held by brads 
or screws. 

A wood jaw vise can be converted to one that will 
hold metal pieces by a simple expedient as outlined at 
Fig. 6, D. Two old files are needed, either 12" or 14" 
long, of flat, rectangular section. The files are heated 
to a red heat and allowed to cool slowly in ashes or 
in the air. Holes are drilled as indicated and counter- 
sunk in pieces cut from the files of sufficient length to 
fit the vise jaws. The vise jaws are cut back about 
half the thickness of the file, thus providing a ledge 
for the piece of file to rest against. The pieces are 



Simple Bench Furniture 



21 




22 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

then fastened to the jaws with countersunk head 
screws. The file teeth provide a good grip on metal 
pieces held in the vise, and, as they are soft, they are 
not as brittle as they are in their hardened condition 
and they are not apt to crumble away. 

Keeping Tools in Their Places. — A very satisfactory 
method of keeping tools out of the way when not in 
use and yet have them accessible when needed is 
shown at Fig. 7, A. This is a rotating tool rack that 
may be easily constructed by the home mechanic and 
installed without trouble. While it is shown attached 
to the bench at the bottom in sketch, it may be sup- 
ported by wall brackets at both ends and kept clear 
of the bench if desired. Round wooden or sheet steel 
discs are provided with a series of holes to receive 
various small tools. The rod may be of wood, such as 
an old broom handle, of iron bar or pipe ; a good way 
is to use pieces of pipe as spacers between the discs, 
assembling the pipes and discs around a central steel 
rod member which has nuts top and bottom to hold 
pieces together. 

The common methods of making tool racks are 
shown at Fig. 7 , B. In this the wall or backboard of 
the bench is utilized as a support for wooden blocks 
used as spacers, while a lath serves as a closure mem- 
ber for the spaces left between the blocks to hold the 
tools. The method of using a leather belt or strap 
for the same purpose is also clearly outlined. Loops 
of various sizes are made by the irregular spacing of 
the retention screws. 

Spring holders as outlined at C may be made by the 
handy man, these being held to the wall by a wood 
screw. In addition to the main clamping spring jaws 
which will hold any ordinary handle, the small loops 
will hold various small tools without trouble, such as 
gimlets, brad-awls, scissors, etc. A spring holder of 



Keeping Tools in Their Places 23 

this form is very useful for holding brooms, mops, 
rakes, and other long-handled household or garden 
tools if made heavier than would be required for less 
weighty tools. 

A more pretentious rack for holding tools and small 
pieces in process is shown at Fig. 7, D, and this may be 



ectck cf 3ench^ 



A § 1 13 f^WTW^ 




Fig. 7.— Suggestions for Having Tools Accessible Yet 
Keeping Them Out of the Way on Workbench. 

made of any desired size so it can be placed on the 
bench, or in the larger sizes, on the floor. The shelves 
are made of steel plates and are supported by four 
bolts passing through them and having pipe spacers 
between them. A small rack suited for the bench can 
be assembled of plates or boards about 12" x 24", 
using y A " rods as bolts and }i" pipe spacers. A larger 
size for floor use could be made of J^" rods, £4" P*pe 



24 



Home Mechanic s Workshop 



spacers and steel plates 24" x 30" or built-up wood 
shelves of any desired size. 

The small racks shown at Fig. 8 is made of muffin 
pans or cup cake tins in combination with a roasting 
pan, using bolts and pipe spacers to hold the assembly 
together. The depressions in the pans make ideal 
depositories for nails, tacks, small screws, nuts, and 
make it possible to keep the various sizes separated 
and easily accessible. The pans are spaced 4" or 5" 
apart, nuts at the top and bottom of the rods serving 



Muffin Pans or 
f f Cup Cake Tins 



Pipe 
'{Spacer 




"Roast ing Pan 



Fig. 8. — How Ordinary Tinware May Be Used as Containers 
for Screws, Nails and Other Materials. 



to clamp the entire assembly together. The rods need 
not be more than 3/16" cold rolled ; the pipe spacers are 
the so called J^j" gas pipe size, which have a bore of 
about 3/16". The materials to construct such a rack 
need not cost more than 30 or 40 cents. 

A very simple revolving rack is shown at Fig. 9, 
this also being composed of muffin tins of the round 
form that have six or seven cups. The method of 
assembling this is clearly outlined and it is a very 
useful receptacle for small supplies. The single bolt 
or bearing is about a %" rod, the pipe spacers need 
not be a tight fit. In fact, wood tubes could be used. 
The use of pipe makes it possible to use a floor or 



Tools and Equipment 



z& 



wall plate as a convenient base. The materials for a 
rack of this kind is also very inexpensive. The advan- 
tage of the rectangular rack shown at Fig. 8 is that it 
can be moved about on the bench. That at Fig. 9 can 
be placed at any point where it will be out of the way. 
Its lack of mobility is made up by the security ob- 




Nut-^ 



s-Pipe Spacer 



,-F/oor Plate 



^-Washer 



Fig. 9.— Revolving Racks for Small Hardware May Be Made 
Easily of Muffin Tins. 

tained by not being able to tip it over and spill out the 
numerous and widely diversified contents. 

Tools and Equipment. — In considering the various 
items of tools and equipment that can be purchased, 
the list is made more complete than the average home 
mechanic would be apt to need, yet it will not be suffi- 
ciently large for the hobbyist and mechanical experi- 
menter. If much metal work is to be done, a small 
anvil as shown at Fig. 5 will be a useful adjunct to the 
bench equipment. The solid flame gas burner is very 
useful for heating the glue pot, soldering iron and 



26 



Home Mechanic's Workshop 



other work of that nature. The Bunsen burner is also 
useful where an intensely hot but concentrated flame 
is desired. 

A group of useful appliances for the wood-worker is 
given at Fig. 10. The wooden clamps are the form 
usually employed by carpenters and cabinetmakers for 
holding pieces in gluing, etc. The C clamps in forged 
steel are used in metal work while the malleable iron 
clamps may be used either for wood or metal. The 



*: 





Wooden Clamp 



Forged S+eel 
C Clomp 



Glue Pot 



Miter Box 




Malleable Iron Clamps 



Fig. 10. — Useful Workbench Accessories That Can Be Used 
to Advantage by Home Mechanics. 



water-jacketed glue pot is very good for the man who 
likes to mix his own glue, though the prepared glues 
that may be purchased in cans of various sizes usually 
answer the purpose of the amateur or home craftsman. 
The miter box may be made by the workman himself. 
It is really a saw guide and is used in cutting small 
wood pieces such as molding for picture frames, etc. 
The shellac bottle is nothing more than a pint or quart 
milk bottle, provided with a wooden stopper to which 
a chisel point brush is fastened to spread the shellac 
as shown. 



Lighting the Workbench 27 

Lighting the Workbench. — Where electricity is 
available the electric light is an ideal method of il- 
luminating the workbench. The method of support- 
ing the light, which is adequately shaded, shown at 
Fig. 11, is a very good one, as the lamp can be moved 
from one end. to the other of the workbench and the 
lamp cord is kept clear of the bench. The cord is at- 
tached to wooden spools or small porcelain insulators 
with friction tape, these sliding freely on a piece of 
copper or steel wire stretched between two shelf 
brackets as indicated. These may be built up of wood 
pieces \y 2 " or 2" square, or may be purchased from 
any hardware store at small cost in either cast iron or 
pressed steel. They are used to support a shelf which 
is somewhat less in depth than that ordinarily used 
to allow the ends of the brackets to project about 2" 
from the shelf. The wire is stretched taut across the 
space between the brackets after the wire carrying 
insulators have been threaded on. There are two sim- 
ple ways of anchoring one end of the wire so it can be 
kept tightly stretched. One of these is a screw eye 
and light turn buckle as shown at A ; the other is an 
eyebolt which can be adjusted by the nut to tighten 
the wire as shown at B, Fig. 11. 

Another expedient is the use of a series of screw- 
eyes on the front edge of the shelf, these being placed 
about a foot apart. The lamp may be provided with 
a hook made of spring brass as shown at C and this 
hook can be placed in any one of the screweyes on the 
shelf front, or supported at any desired point on the 
wire stretched between the shelf brackets, if that is 
used. A simple shade that may be made of tin plate, 
springy brass or other light, bright metal is shown at 
D, also the development or pattern so it can be cut 
from flat stock and afterward bent up. It is an excel- 
lent idea to protect any lamp used on the workbench 



28 



Home Mechanic's Workshop 



or in the shop with a wire cage guard to prevent lamp 
breakage in case it is dropped or hit with a piece of 
wood or tool. A shock-absorbing spring holds the 



Development 

of Hook Shown afC 



Development 

of Shade Shown 
afD 




Fig. 11. — Suggestions for Lighting the Home Workbench if 
Electricity is Available. 



screen away from the lamp bulb, which is a feature of 
some value if high efficiency lamps with fragile fila- 
ments are used. These guards may be purchased at 



Sawhorse and Tool Carrier 



29 



small cost and are made and installed as shown at 
Fig. 11, E. 

Combined Sawhorse and Tool Carrier. — The handy 
man who makes repairs around the home cannot carry 
his tool outfit and workbench everywhere he goes and 
usually finds that the tool he needs most is not in the 
selection he brought from the shop. For any odd 
jobs of carpenter work, either indoors or out, the com- 
bined sawhorse and tool carrier shown at Fig. 12 will 
be found very useful. The box inside the frame serves 



Top Bar I'M"x?'/b'- 




Le^s Vs'!v4' 



Sox fn^s a net 
s/'c/ej 3 /a" stock 




Fig. 12. — A Combined Tool Box and Small Horse is Valuable 
in Making Repairs Remote from the Shop. 



a double purpose. It not only serves to strengthen 
the saw horse frame materially by its bracing effect 
but it acts as a container for a good assortment of 
tools. The trestle may be used for its normal use 
without trouble. It may be built by the home mechan- 
ic without any difficulty by paneling one side and the 
two ends the full height around a bottom shelf and 
putting on a front board to keep the tools from falling 
out. The dimensions given are merely for guidance, 
the important point to be observed is to make the 
trestle as light as possible so it can be carried around 
without too much trouble. Stock V*" thick will be 



30 



Home Mechanic s Workshop 



heavy enough for the box sides and ends and the legs 
can be made of %" thick boards. 

Wood-working Tools. — No workshop will be com- 
plete without a set of wood-working tools and very 
fortunately a very practical outfit can be purchased 
at comparatively small cost. Wood-working tools are 











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Fig. 13. — Tool Chest and Simple Equipment of Ordinary 
Tools Useful in the Home Workshop. 



not only necessary in the home workshop but are of 
obvious utility in making repairs incidental to the up- 
keep of buildings, and the many odd jobs about the 
house. A very convenient outfit for use around the 
farm or shop is shown at Fig. 13 and can be purchased 
for $15 to $20. It consists of the following tools: 
One 22" hand saw, one 6" try square, one 2' rule, one 
pair 5y 2 " combination pliers, one 10" bit brace, four 
auger bits, one each size %", J / 2 ", y±" and 1"; five 



Wood Working Tools 31 

gimlet bits, one steel hammer, one 8" draw knife, one 
double cutter spoke shave, one 5" steel blade screw- 
driver, two socket chisels, one jack plane, one 5y 2 " 
iron block plane and a carpenter's pencil. A plumb 
bob and chalk line, nail set, level and a large steel 
square can be purchased to complete this outfit at 
slight added expense, as well as other tools shown at 
Figs. 14 and 15. 

The hardware necessary, such as nails, screws, sta- 
ples, locks, hinges, etc., can be purchased as required, 
and soon enough of these supplies are left over when 
purchases are made from time to time so a very useful 
stock of miscellaneous small hardware accumulates 
without its cost being so apparent as would be the 
case if everything that was thought desirable was 
purchased outright. 

As the skill of the workman increases, he may de- 
sire a more complete outfit than the simple and inex- 
pensive tool chest at Fig. 13. For a variety of work, 
more tools are needed. The first saw to be purchased 
should be a "crosscut" or for cutting wood across the 
grain. For cutting wood with the grain, the crosscut 
saw will not be suitable and a "rip" saw will be needed 
as shown at Fig. 14. For cutting circles or arcs one 
will need a compass or keyhole saw. For use with 
either a patent adjustable metal or simple wooden 
miter box, a back saw will be needed as the others are 
too coarse for cutting light wood or fine moldings. 
The scroll or jig saw will be indispensable if pattern- 
making or model work is to be attempted. 

The oilstone is needed for sharpening chisels, plane 
irons and other edge tools. A compass or dividers is 
needed for laying out arcs, circles or 'transferring 
measurements. The scratch gauge is for marking 
pieces that are to be rip sawed. A set of gauges, 
which are really chisels having a curved cutting edge 



32 



Home Mechanic s Workshop 




S3 


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Wood Working Tools 



33 



for working out round channels will be necessary if 
pattern work is to be attempted. 

More useful tools are shown at Fig. 15. For gen- 
eral wood-work, especially on finished pieces, one 
should never use a claw hammer without interposing 
a block of wood to receive the force of the blow and 
to protect the surface. A wooden mallet is of value 
in fitting jointed pieces for hammering against chisel 
handles, and for all uses where the wood is not to be 



a Ft Rule 



Wire Coping 
n , r~ Saw 

Bevel Square ^ Cutting Pincers 




Cabinet Scrapers 



Glass Cutter 



Putty Knife 




Wood Rasp 



Fig. 15.— More Tools That Will Prove to Be Useful Additions 
to the Home Shop Outfit. 



marred. Just as a metal hammer is not suitable for 
driving against wood, a wooden mallet should never 
be used against metal or for driving nails. The cut- 
ting pinchers are handy in cutting off or drawing out 
small brads or nails that cannot be extracted with the 
claw hammer. 

Cabinet scrapers are made in a variety of forms. 
The two illustrated are all the amateur needs. One 
having a broad, flat blade is used in scraping plane 
surfaces, the triangular blade form is used in small 



34. 



Home Mechanic s Workshop 



spaces and for corners. A hatchet is very useful as it 
can be used for many rough jobs such as pointing and 
driving stakes, splitting short boards, hewing roughly 
to a line so planing can be done, opening boxes and 
crates and many other uses that will suggest them- 
selves. 

Punches are valuable for making holes in leather, 
cloth, rubber packings, etc. Two kinds are ordinarily 
used, hollow punches which are driven through the 
piece by hammer blows and belt punches which are 



Square Shank-, 



Round Shank 




CA 



J ffl 



R " 



^ 







Center Spoon Reamer Screw Expansion Twist Counter- Flat 
Bit Bit Bit Driver Bit Drills sink Drill 

Bit 



Fig. 16. — Wood Boring Tools Are Made in Many Forms and 
May Be Used in Bitstock or Hand Drill Press. 



operated like plyers. The file card is very handy in 
cleaning wood or metal dust from the teeth of files 
or rasps. A wood rasp is handy for roughing and 
finishing edges of wood pieces instead of a plane. A 
glass cutter and putty knife will be needed if any 
glazing is to be done. 

The various types of wood boring bits are shown at 
Fig. 16. The expansion bit is very useful as it permits 
boring a large number of sizes with the one tool, which 
has an adjustable cutting lip. The reamer bit is used 
in connection with the bit stock for enlarging holes 
in metal and is of tapering square or triangular section 
having sharp cutting edges. The screwdriver bit is 



Metal Working Tools 35 

useful where a large number of screws are utilized to 
hold a piece. 

Metal- working Tools. — Nearly all home craftsmen 
must work metal as well as wood, as that material 
enters largely into the construction of modern house- 
hold appliances. As nearly everyone of a mechanical 
bent owns either a motorcycle or automobile or fusses 
around motorboats, it is necessary to have a certain 
equipment of metal-working tools as well as those 
used on the less resisting material, wood. 

Groups of hand and bench tools to be employed in 
fabricating or repairing parts made of metal are shown 
at Figs. 17 and 18, these cuts showing only the most 
common tools, but they include all of the tools neces- 
sary to complete a very practical kit and it is not un- 
usual for the handy man who is capable of overhaul- 
ing his own car to possess even a larger assortment 
than indicated. The small bench vise provided is a 
useful auxiliary that can be clamped to the workbench 
and should have jaws at least three inches wide and 
capable of opening four or five inches. It is especially 
useful in that it will save wood-working bench vises, 
as it has adequate capacity to handle practically any 
of the small metal parts that need to be worked on 
when making home repairs. 

A blow torch, tinner's snips and soldering copper 
are very useful in sheet metal work and in making any 
repairs requiring the use of solder. The torch can be 
used in any operation requiring a source of heat. The 
use of the wrenches, screwdrivers, and pliers shown 
are known to all and the variety outlined should be 
sufficient for all ordinary work of restoration. The 
wrench equipment is more than usually complete, in- 
cluding a spanner wrench, adjustable end wrenches, a 
thin monkey wrench of medium size, a bicycle wrench 
for handling small nuts and bolts, a Stillson wrench 



36 



Home Mechanic's Workshop 




Metal Working Tools 37 

for pipe and a large adjustable monkey wrench for all 
stubborn fastenings of large size. 

Three different types of pliers are shown at Fig. 18, 
one being a parallel jaw type with size-cutting attach- 
ment, while the other illustrated near it is a combina- 
tion parallel jaw type adapted for use on round work 
as well as in handling flat stock. The most popular 
form of pliers is the combination pattern shown be- 
neath the socket wrench set. This is made of sub- 
stantial drop forgings having a hinged joint that can 
be set so that a very wide opening at the jaws is possi- 
ble. These can be used on round work and for wire 
cutting as well as for handling flat work. 

A very complete set of files, including square, half 
round, mill, flat bastard, three-cornered and rat tail 
are also necessary. A hacksaw frame and a number 
of saws, some with fine teeth for tubing and others 
with coarser teeth for bar or solid stock, will be found 
almost indispensable. A complete punch and chisel 
set should be provided as shown at Fig. 19. A num- 
ber of different forms and sizes of chisels are neces- 
sary, as one type is not suitable for all classes of work. 
The adjustable end wrenches can be used in many 
places where a monkey wrench cannot be fitted and 
where it will be difficult to use a wrench having a 
fixed opening. 

The Stillson pipe wrench is useful in turning studs, 
round rods, and pipes that cannot be turned by any 
other means. A complete mechanic's shop kit must 
necessarily include various sizes of Stillson and mon- 
key wrenches, as no one size can be expected to handle 
the wide ranges of work the professional workman 
must cope with, but the home mechanic will find an 
8" size adequate for almost any work he will be called 
upon to do. 

Two or three sizes of hammers should be provided, 






38 



Home Mechanic's Workshop 




Metal Working Tools 39 

according to individual requirement, these being small 
riveting, medium and heavy-weight machinists' ham- 
mers. A very practical tool of this nature for the 
home repair shop can be used as a hammer, screw- 
driver or tire iron. It is known as the "Spartan" ham- 
mer and is a tool steel drop forging in one piece 
having the working surfaces properly hardened and 
tempered while the method is distributed so as to give 
a good balance to the head and a comfortable grip to 
the handle. The hammer head provides a positive and 
comfortable T-handle when the tool is used as a screw- 
driver or tire iron. Machinists' hammers are provided 
with three types of heads, these being of various 
weights. That shown is the form most commonly 
used and is termed the "ball pein" on account of the 
shape of the portion used for riveting. 

Mention has been previously made of the impor- 
tance of providing a complete set of files and suitable 
handles. These should be of various grades and de- 
grees of fineness and three sizes of each kind should 
be provided if a complete equipment is desired. In 
the flat and half round files three grades are neces- 
sary, one with coarse teeth for roughing, and others 
with medium and fine teeth for the 'finishing cuts. The 
round or rat tail file is necessary in filing out small 
holes, the half round for finishing the interior of large 
ones. Half round files are also well adapted for finish- 
ing surfaces of peculiar contour, such as the inside of 
bearing boxes, connecting rod and main bearing caps, 
etc. Square files are useful in finishing keyways or 
cleaning out burred splines, while the triangular sec- 
tion or three-cornered file is of value in cleaning out 
burred threads and sharp corners. Flat files are used 
on all plane surfaces. 

A file brush consists of a large number of wire 
bristles attached to a substantial wood back having a 



40 



Home Mechanic's Workshop 



handle of convenient form so that the bristles may be 
drawn through the interstices between the teeth of the 
file to remove dirt and grease. If the teeth are filled 
with pieces of soft metal, such as solder or babbitt, 




Fig. 19.— Cotter Pin Pliers Shown at A— Cotter Pin 

Extractor Shown at B — Chisel and Punch Set, 

C to G Inclusive — Spring Winder at H. 

it may be necessary to remove this accumulation with 
a piece of sheet metal. 

One of the most widely used of the locking means 
to prevent nuts or bolts from becoming loose is the 
simple split pin, sometimes called a "cotter pin." 
These can be handled very easily if the special pliers 
shown at Fig. 19, A, are used. These have a curved 
jaw that permits of grasping the pin firmly and insert- 



Metal Working Tools 41 

ing it in the hole ready to receive it. It is not easy to 
insert these split pins by other means because the ends 
are usually spread out and it is hard to enter the pin 
in the hole. With the cotter pin pliers the ends may 
be brought close together, and as the plier jaws are 
small the pin may be easily pushed in place. Another 
use of this plier, also indicated, is to bend over the 
ends of the split pin in order to prevent it from falling 
out. To remove these pins a simple curved lever as 
shown at Fig. 19, B, is used. This has one end taper- 
ing to a point and is intended to be inserted in the eye 
of the cotter pin, the purchase offered by the handle 
permitting of ready removal of the pin after the ends 
have been closed by the cotter pin pliers. 

A complete chisel set suitable for repair shop use 
is also shown at Fig. 19. The type at C is known as 
the "cape" chisel and has a narrow cutting point and 
is intended to chip keyways, remove metal out of cor- 
ners and for all other work where the cutting edge 
chisel, shown at D, cannot be used. The form with 
the wide cutting edge is used in chipping, cutting 
sheet metal, etc. At E a round nose chisel used in 
making oil ways is outlined, while a similar tool hav- 
ing a pointed cutting edge and often used for the 
same purpose is shown at F. The centre punch de- 
picted at G, is very useful for marking parts either for 
identification or for drilling. In addition to the chisels 
shown, a number of solid punches or drifts resembling 
very much that shown at E, except that the point is 
blunt, should be provided to drive out taper pins, bolts, 
rivets, and other fastenings of this nature. These 
should be provided in common sizes. A complete set 
of real value would start at }i" and increase by incre- 
ments of 1/32" up to y 2 " . A simple spring winder is 
shown at Fig. 19, H, this making it possible for the re- 
pairman to wind coil springs, either on the lathe or 



42 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

in the vise. It will handle a number of different sizes 
of wire and can be set to space the coils as desired. 

Drilling machines for the home mechanic are usual- 
ly hand-operated. For drilling small holes in metal 
it is necessary to run the drill fast, therefore the drill 
chuck is usually driven by gearing in order to produce 
high drill speed without turning the handle too fast. 
A small hand drill is shown at Fig. 18. 

As will be observed, the chuck spindle is driven by 
a small bevel pinion, which in turn is operated by a 
large bevel gear turned by a crank. The gear ratio 
is such that one turn of the handle will turn the 
chuck five or six revolutions. A drill of this design 
is not suited for drills any larger than J4". For use 
with drills ranging from y%" to %", or even y 2 " in 
diameter, a breast drill is required, this being a 
larger form of hand drill and is also illustrated at 
Fig. 17. A set of number drills suitable for the 
home mechanic's workshop, set in a metal base 
block, is shown at Fig. 18. This includes all sizes 
that are apt to be required in work about the home. 
A steel rule and inside and outside calipers are also 
of value. 

Supplies for Home Workshop. — Without knowing 
the character of the work the home mechanic will 
attempt, it is not possible to give definite advice 
about the supplies that should be available. All of 
the material mentioned can be used at some time or 
other and can be purchased as required. In buying 
nails, screws, nuts and numerous small items of hard- 
ware, one can sometimes purchase a quantity for but 
little more than a few will cost. One can often 
secure a gross of screws in a box as cheaply as a 
few dozen counted out in an envelope. Always 
ascertain the cost of an unbroken package contain- 
ing a small standard quantity before buying an odd 



Hardware and Supplies 43 

amount, which might result in breaking the package 
and cost fully as much. 

The items of hardware most used in the home 
workshop are: wood screws, stove bolts, nails, 
brads, tacks, both carpet and curtain; escutcheon 
pins, small rivets, screw-eyes and screw-hooks in 
both steel and brass and various sizes; a few sizes 
of nuts and bolts, iron washers, split pins, hose 
clamps, wire solder, picture hangers' wire, spool of 
bare copper wire about No. 16, and a coil of soft 
iron wire of the same size. Lag screws and up- 
holsterers' tacks will be needed if furniture is made 
or repaired. Both emery cloth and sand paper in 
various grades should be stocked. Electrical tape 
can be used for many purposes besides that of in- 
sulation and a roll should always be handy. 

A number of paints and chemicals will also be 
useful. Some carbon tetrachloride for cleaning pur- 
poses ; white and orange shellac; alcohol; stove pipe 
black; enamels and paints as required; turpentine 
and linseed oil; aluminum and bronze powder, 
banana oil lacquer, glue for wood; rubber cement, 
putty, asbestos cement, beeswax and rosin, potash, 
or lye; machine oil; 3 in 1 oil; furniture polish; 
wood stains and furniture wax; white or red lead; 
Smooth-on cement for metal, and ample supplies of 
waste and cleaning rags. 

A fireproof receptacle should be provided for 
wood shavings, dirty cloths, oily waste and other 
inflammable material. A small galvanized iron can, 
such as used for garbage, is very good for this pur- 
pose. The hinged cover keeps the contents inside 
the can and there is no danger of fire. A push 
broom, a dust pan, and a bench brush will also help 
in keeping the shop clean and make it a pleasant 
place to work in. 



CHAPTER II 

SPECIAL TOOLS AND SHOP EXPEDIENTS 

Two- foot Rule for Laying Out Angles— Lamps for Fine Solder- 
ing — Soldering-iron Heater — Non-Spilling Acid Cup — Home- 
Made Blow Torch — Improvised Tools — Wooden Hacksaw 
Frame — Cabinet Scraper Handle — Inexpensive Marking 
Gauge — Stunts With Hammers — Soft Faced Hammer — 
Wedging Hammer Handles Securely — Stowing Away the 
Nail Set — Repairing Cracked Hammer Handle — Emergency 
Wrench for Turning Pipe — Kink for Sharpening Skates — 
Small Jaws for Holding Screws — Home-Made Expanding 
Bolt — Insulating Plier Handles — Use of Drill Gauge — Re- 
moving Stud Bolts — Simple Saw Clamp — Extemporized Saw- 
ing Gauge — Repairing Wood Boring Bits — Screw Inserting 
Tool — Soldering Iron Kinks — Simple Pipe Wrench — Using 
Wrench for Pipe Cutting — Suggestions for the Home Painter 
— Simple Paint Brush Wiper — Keeping Brush Handle Clean 
— Handle Hook — Extension Handle for Brush. 

The special tools and simple devices described in 
this chapter cannot fail to be of value to the home 
mechanic who must often extemporize ways of doing 
things with the ordinary tools in his equipment, where- 
as the professional always has special tools for the 
work in hand. All of the suggestions which follow 
have been tried by handy men and have been found 
useful in shop work and around the home. 

Two-Foot Rule for Laying Out Angles. — If it is 
desired to lay out angles and a protractor is not avail- 
able, it is possible for the handy man to use a 2' rule 
for this purpose and secure fairly accurate results if 
he refers to the table given at Fig. 20. In operation 

44 



Tools and Shop Expedients 



45 



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46 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

the rule is opened varying amounts depending on the 
angle desired and the distance is measured between 
the edges of the rule. For example, if one wished to 
lay out a 15° angle, by consulting the table it will be 
found that the distance is 3}^". Similarly a 30° angle 
could be obtained by spreading the ends of the folded 
rule 6-7/32". Distances given are accurate within 
1/32", and are believed to be sufficiently accurate for 
practical use. The only way to obtain angles accurate- 
ly is by using a protractor. 

Lamps for Fine Soldering. — A very simple alcohol 
lamp is shown at Fig. 21, A. This is made by cutting 
a tube from the brush of an old mucilage bottle and by 
threading some cotton wicking down through the tube. 
Any piece of copper or brass tube of suitable size may 
be used if desired. A cork is selected that will fit the 
bottle tightly and the end of the tube passed through 
it so that the lower portion of the wicking will project 
into the alcohol. In order to prevent evaporation the 
outer, end of the wick should be covered with some 
form of tubular member such as an old cartridge shell. 
Another simply made spirit lamp is shown at B. This 
is contrived from an old spring bottom oil can, the 
spout of which is cut up close to the can body and 
wicking passed through it as indicated. Either of 
these alcohol lamps can be used if doing small solder- 
ing- jobs, and for heating small irons. 

Soldering Iron Heater. — It is possible to use ordi- 
nary pipe fittings and make a somewhat more pre- 
tentious soldering iron heater as shown at Fig. 21, C 
The main part is composed of a 12" piece of y 2 " iron 
pipe provided with threads at each end on which or- 
dinary pipe caps are screwed. A series of holes 1/16" 
in diameter and in two or three rows is drilled to ex- 
tend about 4" from one end. At the other end a small 
piece of the pipe is cut out to form a rectangular open- 



Tools and Shop Expedients 



47 



ing through which air can come and mix with the gas. 
Pieces are cut from sheet metal to form legs as indi- 
cated, these being. provided with a hole through which 
pipe is passed and are extended up above the pipe 
sufficiently high to form a rest for the soldering iron. 
A nozzle for the gas burner is made of a piece of J4$" 



^Wicking 



,* Inside Cylinder 




(Wick 



0;r>« Cnn ^Acioi Receptacle Shortened 

,'Hipe^ap r Snnn+ 

/-Copper Tube 




Pipe 
Cap ' 




0T-- ... Holes 
"*HlT l ' nP 'P 9 

"annul/ 



p 

\ Brass or Copper 

^--tube flattened 

at one end. 



Fig. 21. — Alcohol Lamps, Acid Receptacle, Blow Torch and 
Soldering Iron Heater May All Be Made in the Home 
Workshop. 



pipe about 4" long which is flattened at one end as 
indicated. This is inserted into the cap at the end of 
the pipe opposite the drilled holes through a hole pro- 
vided for that purpose in the cap. The pipe should 
be a tight fit in the end of the cap and should be moved 
back and forth until the proper flame is obtained at 
the other end of the pipe. It is connected to the city 



48 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

gas supply by means of the usual rubber gas tube. If 
the flame is too red or yellow, which indicates too 
much gas, the end of the small pipe may be flattened 
more to restrict the amount of gas supply to the mix- 
ture to be burned. When the parts are properly ad- 
justed, a series of blue flames such as in a gas stove 
will result when the gas and air mixture issuing from 
the small holes is ignited. 

Non-Spilling Acid Cup. — A receptacle for soldering 
acid that will not spill its contents out even if tipped 
over is shown at Fig. 21, D. This is a double cup which 
has an inside cylinder to form a partition to keep the 
acid from leaking out if the container is lying on its 
side. A very good size is to make the main cup about 
3" high with a diameter at the bottom of 2" and at 
the top of \y 2 ". The inside cylinder in which a brush 
is inserted may be 1" in diameter at the top tapering 
down to Y\" at the lower end. The inner cylinder is 
joined to the outer cup by a flat ring of metal securely 
soldered to both cup and top of cylinder. The handle 
shown may be added as a convenience but is not abso- 
lutely necessary. This is made of a piece of strip stock 
riveted to the cup before the parts are assembled. In 
order to prevent leakage of acid the riveted points 
should be well soldered. Copper is very good material 
for making a soldering acid cup as shown. 

Home-Made Blow Torch. — Many useful devices 
may be made of pipe fittings by the home mechanic. 
The blow torch which is shown at Fig. 21, E, is of sub- 
stantial construction and will give very good results. 
A 1" pipe nipple 6" long is fitted with a reducing coup- 
ling at one end and a pipe cap at the other. A y 2 " pipe 
nipple 1^2" long is screwed into a reducer at one end 
and is provided with a suitable cap at the other. The 
wick is made by bunching a sufficient number of 
strands of lamp cord or candle wicking to fill a Yz" 



Improvised Tools 49 

pipe nipple and to extend from one end of that mem- 
ber down into the body of the torch. The blow pipe 
is made of a piece of copper tube about 8" long bent 
over at the top and attached to the reservoir by a sim- 
ple sheet metal clamp. A couple of feet of rubber tube 
is attached to the lower end of the blow pipe tube. 

The pipe cap at the top keeps the alcohol, with 
which the container is filled, from evaporating and 
should always be screwed on when the lamp is not 
in use. If a brass pipe is employed to form the 
reservoir, the lower cap may be soldered to prevent 
leakage. If iron pipe is used a paste of red lead 
and glycerine may be applied to the threads of the 
cap before it is screwed in place. The method of 
using a torch of this kind is very simple. The wick 
is lit as in any alcohol lamp and air is blown through 
the rubber tube which is placed in the mouth of the 
operator to direct the flame to the point it is desired 
to heat. 

Improvised Tools. — It often happens that one is in 
need of a compass for scribing circles and a compass 
is not available. If one has a pencil it is not difficult 
to contrive a satisfactory substitute by taking a length 
of steel wire and winding several coils around the 
pencil body as shown at Fig. 22, A. The lower end of 
the wire is sharpened to a point and circles of varying 
radius may be made by bending the wire to obtain 
the desired distance between the pencil point and 
that of the wire. 

In cutting sheet metal that is too heavy to be 
cut with the ordinary tin snips held in the hand or 
for cutting irregular shapes where the sheet of metal 
must be manipulated, much better results are obtained 
if the snips are held between the vise jaws as indicated 
at Fig. 22, B, as more pressure can be exerted on the 
one movable blade than when they are held in the 



Home Mechanic's Workshop 




Snips Can Cut Heavy n Ua ^ ome . Made Hacksaw Frame. 
Rest for Hacksaw D-Homc * Scratch 

E— Cabinet Scraper Handle. 
Gauge. 



Improvised Tools 51 

hand and both blades have pressure exerted to close 
them. 

If one has a large number of pieces of metal to 
saw with ordinary hacksaw, considerable discomfort 
may result from the cramped position of the thumb 
which imparts pressure to the end of the hacksaw 
frame opposite the handle and which is necessary 
not only to feed the saw into the piece cut but also 
to steady it. A simple thumb rest may be made of 
sheet metal as shown at Fig. 22, C. The metal must 
be of sufficiently heavy gauge not to lose its shape 
when pressure is applied. It is supported at the front 
end by a hinge at the hacksaw frame and is slotted 
at the other so that it will bridge the sawblade and 
not slip off. The slot is made so that it will fit the 
hacksaw blade accurately and thus it provides a stiffen- 
ing effect that is valuable in sawing certain metals. 
The method of application and the development of 
this piece before it is bent is clearly shown at Fig. 
22, C. The reason it is attached to the frame is so that 
it will not be misplaced and so it can be swung out of 
the way when blades are changed. 

Wooden Hacksaw Frame. — While hacksaw frames 
are not expensive and may be purchased at a hard- 
ware store for comparatively little money, the handy 
man may desire to make his own sawframe, which he 
can easily do by following the design sketch given 
at Fig. 22, D. The frame is made of hard wood and 
a slot is provided at both ends of the arch to receive 
the end of the blade or the guiding fin of the tension 
fitting. A cotter pin or small bolt serves to hold 
the end of the hacksaw blade near the handle. The 
other end of the blade is supported by a bent metal 
clip which is provided with a bolt passing through 
the wooden handle and having a nut at its outer end 
by which the blade may be tightened by pulling the 



52 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

tension member closer to the frame end. The blade 
is kept from turning by a projecting feather that 
sticks up into the slot cut above the tension fitting. 

Cabinet Scraper Handle. — Another tool that may be 
easily improvised is a handle for a steel plate cabinet 
scraper as shown at Fig. 22, E. Any piece of scrap 
hardwood may be utilized, cut approximately to the 
shape outlined and a saw cut made on an angle to 
fit the scraper steel tightly. This makes it consider- 
ably easier to handle the thin scraper blade than when 
held in the hand. 

Inexpensive Marking Gauge. — A very simple and 
effective marking gauge may be made at slight ex- 
pense as shown at Fig. 22, F. A piece of dowel rod 
or a round stick is whittled out and dressed down 
so that it will fit the hole in a large spool tightly. A 
small brad is driven part way through one end so 
that its point projects through about 3/32nds of an 
inch. The adjustment of the gauge is easily accom- 
plished by moving the spool as desired on the tightly 
fitting round stick of wood. Another way is to use 
a screweye as a clamp screw which is screwed into 
the spool, but which has a flattened end so that it 
will not cut into the central rod. When this is done 
the spool need not fit tightly. If desired, a small 
piece of steel or brass rod may be used instead of 
the wooden piece in which case a hole will have to 
be drilled at one end in which a suitable metal point 
is placed. 

Stunts With Hammers. — The ordinary claw ham- 
mer, which is such an indispensable tool in the home 
workshop is not suitable for pulling tacks or very 
small brads. The simple expedient of filing a notch 
in one of the claws as indicated at Fig. 23, A, adapts it 
perfectly for pulling out small tacks and makes the 
use of a separate tack puller unnecessary. 



Tools and Shop Expedients 



53 



Soft Faced Hammer or Mallet. — For working on 
polished metal surfaces or finished wood pieces, or 
for driving out threaded members such as bolts with- 
out marring the threads, a soft faced hammer may be 
contrived as shown at Fig. 23, B. A piece of iron pipe 
about \y 2 " in diameter and 3" long forms a basis 
of this tool. Two holes are drilled through close to 
each other and then filed square so that an ordinary 
hammer handle may be wedged in. The soft faces 



■WoodPlug 

Weaae 'Shape 
■Pipe ^Hammer Handle Washer*..*, 




Fig. 23.— Stunts With Hammers. 



are made of soft wood plugs tapered so they may be 
driven into the ends of the pipe. When the plugs 
become worn they may be easily replaced at slight 
expense. By using a short piece of wood several 
inches in diameter and 3" long and drilling a hole in 
the center for a handle, it is not difficult to make a 
mallet that will prove useful on different kinds of 
woodwork. 

Wedging Hammer Handles Securely. — There is 
nothing more annoying than to have a loose hammer 
head on a handle. The ordinary forms of simple wood 
or iron wedges do not always stay in place, which is 



54 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

the main cause of the looseness. An expedient that 
is recommended is to take an iron washer that will 
fit into the eye of the hammer and grind it wedge 
shape as shown at Fig. 23, C. After the wedge is 
driven in place part of the wood of the handle will 
swell into the opening in the washer and the wedge 
thus made will remain firmly in place. A washer 
larger than the eye of the hammer may be used by 
grinding off two points on the circumference to ob- 
tain flat pieces and thus reduce the washer diameter. 
An ordinary metal wedge may be used by drilling the 
hole through it, but a washer is recommended because 
these are usually available, and as they are made of 
soft iron they may be filed tapering if an emery wheel 
is not available for grinding it down. 

Stowing Away the Nail Set. — Where much nailing 
is to be done it is not always easy to keep the nail 
set handy as this is a small tool that is easily mis- 
placed and so shaped it may roll off the bench on the 
slightest provocation. The sketch at B, Fig. 23, shows 
a simple expedient for carrying the nail set so it will 
not be lost and will be available when wanted. A 
hole slightly larger in diameter than the nail set 
and about }i" longer is drilled into the end of the 
hammer handle. A small plate held by a screw serves 
as a cover to keep the nail set from falling out and 
can be swung to one side when the nail set is needed. 

Repairing Cracked Hammer Handle. — Hammer 
handles sometimes break off near the head, especially 
if the hammer is used for work it is not designed for, 
such as trying to pull out spikes or using the hammer 
head or handle as a pry. Sometimes the handle does 
not break off, but cracks. In this case the fractured 
portion may be tightly wound with electricians' tape 
which reinforces the weakened portion. Some me- 
chanics have wound closely spaced copper wire coils 



Tools and Shop Expedients 55 

tightly around the cracked portion and extending be- 
yond the break. In order to keep the copper wire 
in place it is soldered, and then it becomes a solid 
metal sleeve that is a very effective reinforcement for 
the weak handle. 

Emergency Wrench for Turning Pipe. — The home 
workshop cannot be expected to contain the assort- 
ment of tools that is found in professional establish- 
ments. Sometimes it is necessary to turn pieces of 
pipe or other round objects that are beyond the capac- 
ity of the Stillson wrench or pipe pliers in the home 
tool kit. In this case the expedient outlined at Fig. 
24 provides a very good form of pipe wrench. A pipe 
tee and a foot or more of pipe forms the basis of 
the tool and a piece of chain which is wound around 
the pipe and passed through the tee piece as indicated 
will give a very firm grip on the pipe. 

Kink for Sharpening Skates. — The home mechanic 
is often called upon to sharpen skates. It is not diffi- 
cult to dress the blades down flat, but it is hard to 
produce the hollow ground effect unless one is wise 
to the kink depicted at Fig. 24, B. A simple guide 
clip is made of sheet metal so that the round file used 
in hollowing the skate blade is guided and cannot 
slip off. The guide clip is moved back and forth with 
the file. This method can only be employed on the 
cheaper grade of skates that have soft steel blades. 
Higher grade skates have harder steel surfaces that 
can only be machined by means of an emery wheel 
or oilstone. 

Small Jaws for Holding Screws. — Inexpensive jaws 
to be used in a small bench vise for holding screws 
for slotting or for filing down the ends of the thread 
without injuring the threaded surface may be readily 
made by sawing through a nut that will fit the screw 
and filing a ledge so that the nut will drop through 



56 



Home Meek 



anic's Workshop 







Tools and Shop Expedients 57 

the vise while it is being tightened. Small screws 
may be held by nuts that are not slotted all the way 
through but only through one side. It will be evident 
that the screws will be very firmly held without any 
injury to the threads. 

Home Made Expanding Bolt. — In fastening objects 
to brick walls or other masonry, expansion bolts are 
necessary because it is not possible to thread such 
materials and wooden plugs driven in holes drilled 
do not always provide a strong enough anchorage. 
A simple method of making an expansion bolt is out- 
lined at Fig. 24, D. A short piece of gas pipe of the 
required diameter and length is divided by a slanting 
cut made with a hacksaw. The bolt is passed through 
the center and as the nut is tightened up, the tapering 
ends of the pipe slide on each other, which increases 
the effective diameter of the pipe at that point, causing 
it to clamp firmly against the material at the sides of 
the hole because of its expanded diameter. 

Insulating Plier Handles. — In working around 
wires comprising electrical circuits, especially if these 
carry lighting or power current, the workman will 
find insulated plier handles useful. While pliers with 
very good handles may be obtained from hardware 
stores in which an insulating composition is vulcan- 
ized to the metal, the home workshop can be supplied 
with a very satisfactory substitute. As shown at Fig. 
24, E, pieces of rubber hose or tube are cut to corre- 
spond to the length of the handles and forced over 
them as indicated. This makes a very satisfactory 
insulation that will resist ordinary voltages used for 
power and lighting circuits. 

Use of Drill Gauge. — Grinding a twist drill so that 
it will cut well and to size is not a difficult proposition 
if a drill grinding gauge such as shown at Fig. 24, F, 
is used. This insures that both lips of the drill will 



58 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

be ground to the same angle as the gauge and that 
both lips will measure the same. If one of the lips 
is ground at a different angle than the other or is 
longer, the drill will not feed freely into the metal 
and will make an over-sized hole. The angle generally- 
adopted for drill lips is approximately 100 degrees. 

Removing Stud Bolts. — A very simple method of 
removing stud bolts is shown at Fig. 24, G. This is 
much better than the usual method of using pipe pliers 
or a Stillson wrench on either the body or the threaded 
part. Two nuts are used, one to lock the other firmly 
on the thread and keep it from coming off. The stud 
is unscrewed by applying a wrench to one of the 
nuts while the other is kept firmly seated against it 
by another wrench. 

Simple Saw Clamp. — A very simple saw clamp that 
can be used advantageously if it is necessary to sharp- 
en the saw teeth and no regular clamp is available 
may be made as shown at Fig. 25, A. In this a piece 
of board or timber is ripped for a depth of half that 
of the saw blade and then the saw is dropped into 
this groove. As the groove is larger than the gauge 
of the saw blade it is necessary to clamp that mem- 
ber by driving small wedges or slivers of wood be- 
tween the blade and the wood at one side of the 
slot. This expedient enables one to hold a saw at 
such a height above the bench as will permit easy and 
accurate filing, which is not always possible if the 
saw is placed in a bench vise, which is usually too 
low for the purpose. 

Extemporized Sawing Gauge. — A workman who 
had several trestles to make and no miter box handy 
extemporized a miter cutting gauge that proved to 
be very satisfactory as shown at Fig. 25, B. Ordinarily 
it would have been necessary to lay out an angle on 
each leg separately as a guide for sawing, but with 



Tools and Shop Expedients 



59 



the miter box that was contrived on the job, it was 
possible to cut all the legs accurately and at the 
same angle. The base angle was made of stock the 
same thickness as that used for the legs. Three 
pieces of %" board were nailed to this base piece 
in such a position as to guide the saw at the proper 
angle for cutting the miter. A nail driven in one 
of the upright pieces to act as a stop and the single 
piece at the other end of the base member formed a 
useful gauge for cutting the legs to the correct length 




B Sawbfade. 



Fig. 25.— Simple Saw Clamp at A. B— Gauge for Sawing 
Trestle Legs. 



as well as holding the legs steady while being sawed. 
The positions of the guide pieces may be changed 
to suit the requirements and the suggestion given 
can be employed to advantage by the home mechanic 
whenever a number of duplicate pieces are to be 
sawed. 

Repairing Wood Boring Bits. — When the spurs on 
wood boring bits cut the hole smaller than the size of 
the twisted portion, as results when they become bent 
in, it is easy to restore them to the normal cutting 
position in the manner shown at Fig. 26, A. A small 
nail set or light punch is used to drive the spurs 



60 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

back in line. In order to do this, the bit is placed on 
a level surface and the spurs driven out by blows 
from a light hammer so that it will be a little wider 
apart than the diameter of the twisted part of the bit. 
Both spur points should be the same distance away 
from the center screw point. If the lips become dull, 
they may be dressed down with a fine file or small 
oil stone, the center screw may be sharpened with a 
small three cornered file. 

Screw Inserting Tool. — When fussing around on 
small work as in clock repairing or tinkering with a 
sewing machine, and even on auto repairing, it is 
sometimes necessary to insert small screws that are 
difficult to hold with the hand and leave room enough 
to work a screwdriver. The tool shown at Fig. 26, B, 
greatly facilitates this work. It may be made in 
various sizes, depending on the screws to be handled. 
The end of the tool, which is made like a screwdriver, 
is slotted, so that it may be sprung into the slot in 
the screw head. After the screw is started the ordi- 
nary screwdriver can be employed to finish the job. 

Soldering Iron Kinks. — When it is necessary to do 
soldering in spaces where the ordinary pyramidical 
soldering iron as shown at C, Fig. 26, cannot be used 
to advantage, the special shape depicted at D will be 
found valuable. One side is absolutely flat, while the 
other three sides taper to a point as in the usual con- 
struction. The advantage of this shape is that it 
permits of heating seams better than the usual form 
on account of the greater area of the iron in contact 
with the metal to be heated and also because more 
of the tinned surface of the iron is in contact with 
the portion to be soldered. 

A simple expedient to keep a hot soldering iron 
from burning a wooden benchtop is shown at Fig. 
26, C. The large iron washer or disc of metal with a 



Tools and Shop Expedients 



61 



hole drilled through serves as a rest to keep the 
soldering copper head away from the wood. This 
washer, being a loose fit on the shank, can be slipped 
back to the handle when the iron is heated or when 
it is in use. 

Simple Pipe Wrench. — An ordinary monkey wrench 
may be changed to a pipe wrench by providing an 



,5er rated Jaw 




Fig. 26.— A— How to Repair Wood Bit. B— Screw Holder. 
C — Keeping Hot Soldering Iron Away From Bench Top. 
D — Special Shape Iron for Flat Work. E — Jaw to Make 
Pipe Wrench Out of Monkey Wrench. F — Converting 
Wrench to Pipe Cutter. 



easily made serrated jaw which is held in place against 
the movable end jaw by a spring clip. When not 
in use as a pipe wrench, the toothed piece and its 
holding clip may be removed and the wrench used in 
the usual manner. 

Using Wrench for Pipe Cutting. — A large wrench 
may be fitted with a pair of hardened steel cutters as 
shown at Fig. 26, F, so it becomes a pipe cutter that 
can be used very well in an emergency. The discs 



62 



Home Mechanic's Workshop 



are held in place by pins or bolts which fit in the 
suitable holes drilled into the wrench jaws. These 
holes do not materially weaken the wrench and if the 
discs are held on by bolts they may be removed if 
it is desired to employ the wrench for its legitimate 
purpose. 

Suggestions for the Home Painter. — When engaged 
on outside work the painter often finds it necessary 
to hang his paint can from the rung of a ladder. This 



,-Hole for Brush Handle 

„, n Parr of Hollow Rubber Ball 




Fig. 27. — Hints for the Home Painter. 

may be easily done by bending up a simple hook of 
"S" shape of about 3/16" cold rolled steel rod as 
shown at Fig. 27, A. Another simple device easily 
made of the same material and also illustrated is a 
piece of wire having hooks on each end to engage 
the sides, that will fit across the pail. It will be 
observed that the brush may be laid on this support 
which eliminates placing it at some point where it 
might accumulate dirt when it is desired to move the 
ladder from point to point. Another advantage of 
this wire is that it may be used for wiping off surplus 
paint from the brush. 



Tools and Shop Expedients 63 

Simple Paint Brush Wiper. — Another idea for keep- 
ing the outside of the bucket clear of paint is shown 
at Fig. 27, B. If practice is made of wiping a brush 
off against the side of the can, while most of the 
paint flows down on the inside, a certain amount 
always runs down on the outside. This makes a very 
dirty can. The paint brush drainer shown is ex- 
tremely simple, consisting of a piece of sheet metal 
bent in the form of a circle about \y 2 " smaller in 
diameter than the opening of the pail. Hooks of steel 
wire are made and attached to the ring by solder. 
These serve to support the ring and locate it con- 
centrically with the outside of the pail. All the paint 
drained off the brush will fall into the can and the 
outside will be kept clean. 

Keeping Brush Handles Clean. — When painting 
overhead it is hard for the unpracticed mechanic to 
use just such quantities of paint as are necessary and 
any surplus is apt to run down on the paint brush 
handle and to the hand holding the brush. The kink 
shown at Fig. 27, C, will prevent this. An ordinary 
hollow rubber ball is cut in half and a hole is made 
to receive the paint brush handle. The hole should 
be made smaller than the handle so that the rubber 
will constrict around that part of the brush and keep 
the half ball firmly in place. When this is fitted any 
paint that would tend to run down on the handle 
will collect in the cup formed by the semi-spherical 
rubber member. 

Handle Hook. — A simple hook that can be attached 
to a paint brush handle, so that member can be hung 
to the side of the paint pail, is outlined at Fig. 27, D. 
This wire hook also provides a good hand hold and 
keeps the brush from slipping out of the grasp. A 
piece of wire about ]/%" in diameter is bent to the 
shape indicated and the ends may be pointed and 



64 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

driven into the wood or holes may be drilled through 
the brush handle, the wire ends pushed through and 
bent over on the opposite side to keep the hook in 
place. When a hook of this kind is fitted, the brush 
is held in the usual manner and is braced by passing 
the hook between two of the fingers. 

Extension Handle for Brush. — When it is desired 
to do a little touching up at points that cannot be 
conveniently reached even with a ladder, a simple 
extension fitting may be made out of an old bicycle 
lamp bracket for grasping the handle of the paint 
brush. An old broom handle or similar stick may be 
slotted at one end to receive a portion of the clamp 
which is held in place by a small bolt passing through 
the assembly. As will be apparent even if an old lamp 
bracket is not available the clamp member may be 
easily made by bending up sheet brass or other metal 
to the approximate form shown. The advantage of 
this fitting over the usual method of tying the handle 
of the brush on the end of a stick is that it is much 
easier to change paint brushes if different colors are 
to be applied and the brush is held firmly, which is 
necessary to secure good work. 



CHAPTER III 

USEFUL HOME APPLIANCES 

Keeping Ladder from Slipping — Practical Ladder Extension — 
Easy Rest for Feet — Metal Scaffold Bracket — An Intermedi- 
ate Ladder Step — Using One Lock for Three Drawers — 
Double Bolt for Door — Secure Locking Means — Furnace 
Door Opener — Furnace Door Stop — Automatic Draft Open- 
ing Means — Broom Hanger — Skirt or Pants Hanger — Easily 
Made Door Spring — An Economical Door Stop — Useful 
Kitchen Appliances — Easily Made Pan Cover — Holder for 
Milk Bottles — Drinking Glass Holders — Keeping Spoon Out 
of Kettle — Home Water Works — Garden Hose Repair — 
Keeping Hose Packing Washers in Place — Repairing Leaky 
Faucet — Home-Made Hose Reel — Useful Hand Trucks — 
Package Carrier for Bicycles — Picture Frame Hanging Made 
Easy — Metal Corners From Tubing — How to Fasten Floor 
Boards — Making Wood Screws Tight — Raising a Sagging 
Door — Efficient Cord Cutter — Locating Drain Pan — Prevent- 
ing Splash of Waste Water — Cleaning Dirt Out of Corners — 
Combined Broom and Ice Pick — Sleeve Pressing Board — 
Ironing Board Support — Shoe Polishing Stand — Indoor 
Clothes Hanger — Improving Linen Closets — Storing Kettles 
and Pans — Trouser Hanger for Closet — Installing Curtain 
Pole — Using Electric Flat Iron for Stove — Range Boiler 
Repairs — Cheap Candle Lamp — Keeping Soot in Stove Pipe 
— Clipping Trees Without a Ladder — Doubling Capacity of 
Spring Balance — Simple Magazine Rack — Cabinet for Wood- 
working Tools. 

The home mechanic prides himself in being able to 
make many appliances and devices that will make 
housekeeping easier or that will make the many neces- 
sary tasks about the home less difficult. The appli- 
ances described in this chapter range from simple 
devices that may be bent up out of a few inches of 

65 



66 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

wire in a few minutes to examples of cabinet or joiner 
work that will furnish occupation for a number of 
spare hours. All of the suggestions given are adapted 
to the home and shop and should be of value for that 
reason. The handy man who cannot apply many of 
the suggestions given will indeed be hard to suit. 

Keeping Ladder From Slipping. — Serious accidents 
often result when the bottom of a ladder of the ordi- 
nary type slips on the ground or floor due to being 
placed at too gradual an angle. A simple method of 
eliminating this when the ladder is used on smooth 
floors of either wood or other material is to employ a 
combination pad at the foot of each ladder side as 
indicated at Fig. 28, A. This combines a sharp pointed 
spike and a rubber pad so that it will hold on a large 
variety of floor surfaces. The retaining fitting for the 
ladder foot is easily made by taking a piece of band 
iron and bending it up to the shape shown in the 
illustration so that it forms one member of a sub- 
stantial hinge. It is then securely fastened to the 
bottom of the ladder by means of wood screws. 

The foot pad is provided with two band iron lugs 
having a hole through them so that a bolt can be 
inserted to keep the ladder foot in position which are 
attached to the wood blocks by suitable screws. The 
spikes may be made by screwing the proper size 
wood screws into the wood from the top so they will 
project through the bottom the required distance. 
The rubber pad may be extemporized from old or new 
rubber heels on heavy ladders or by using the rubber 
knobs that may be obtained at a hardware store and 
that are intended for use on chair legs or as crutch 
tips. If the ladder is a light one, one wood screw 
and chair leg tip will be enough. If it is a heavy 
ladder it may be necessary to use a series of 4 or 5 
screws and 2 or 3 rubber pads in each foot block. 



Useful Home Appliances 



67 




a 
o 

CO 



bfl 
bfl 

CO 

I 

00 
CM 

bi 



68 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

When a ladder is to be used on polished floors 
where the spike method would result in damaging the 
polished surfaces, the bottom of the wood block may 
be covered with a piece of corrugated rubber matting. 
It will be evident that the hinge method of retention 
permits the pad to accommodate itself to various 
angles of inclination of the ladder or to differences in 
footing where the ladder is used. Such a device may 
be easily made by the handy man and will prove of 
considerable value as an accessory to any ladder used 
around the shop or home. 

Practical Ladder Extension. — A ladder is sometimes 
too short to reach over a cornice, in which case it is 
possible to provide an extension as shown at Fig. 28, B, 
so that the roof may be reached even with a short 
ladder. The extension pieces are made of ]/&" stock 
and of the proper length to form the "V" brace mem- 
ber desired. One of these is securely nailed to each 
side of the ladder and a cross brace is nailed at the 
other end to keep them from spreading. 

Easy Rest for Feet. — When one is not used to 
standing on the round rungs of a ladder for a long 
time, as is sometimes necessary in painting, a flat step 
may be easily made that will provide a much more 
easy rest for the feet. This may be made as shown 
at Fig. 28, C. It is formed of a piece of plank 1}4" 
thick, 8" or 9" wide and as long as the ladder is wide 
and then cutting a piece out of it so that the ends 
will fit the ladder sides. The notches should be cut 
on an angle so that, the board will be approximately 
level even when the ladder is inclined. The plank 
may be readily put in position by sliding it in the 
rectangular space between the two rungs, one end 
being near the lower rung and the other near the 
upper one on the opposite side. By dropping the 
high end of the step, it will fit against the sides of 



Useful Home Appliances 69 

the ladder snugly. Care should be taken to select 
a piece of wood for this that is sufficiently thick so 
that it will not split in half due to the weight of the 
person using the ladder. With an arrangement of 
this kind the plank may be changed from rung to 
rung as desired. 

Metal Scaffold Bracket. — The scaffold bracket shown 
at Fig. 28, D, is a good suggestion for the workman 
who has to use ladders in his business. It is made 
of flat iron bar and bent round iron bar pieces. A 
series of holes is drilled in the flat piece so that 
it may be adjusted for various degrees of inclination 
or "slant" of the ladder and the construction is such 
that the bracket may be used for low work if placed 
on the inside of the ladder or for high work if installed 
on the outside. The scaffold planks are rested on the 
1" round iron bars. Two inch by J4" Dar stock and 
24" or 1" round iron bar are the materials used and 
the attachment may be made at relatively small cost 
by any blacksmith from the sketch. 

An Intermediate Ladder Step. — It sometimes hap- 
pens that the spacing of the rungs of a step-ladder 
are either too high or too low to work comfortably 
when doing work on a wall or ceiling, such as wash- 
ing windows or painting. A temporary expedient is 
to take a piece of board 4" to 6" in width and place 
it between the two side pieces of the step-ladder as 
shown at Fig. 28, E. 

Using One Lock for Three Drawers. — When it is 
desired to lock a number of drawers by using one 
padlock, a very simple method of accomplishing this, 
such as shown at Fig. 29, A, may be used. The ordi- 
nary form of hasp and staple is employed, the hasp 
being attached to the drawer fronts while the staples 
are driven into the side of the cabinet so that the 
hasp will fit over it. An ordinary cold rolled round 



70 



Home Mechanic s Workshop 



rod has a ring formed at one end of approximately the 
same size as the staple and is sufficiently long so it 
will pass through the three staples as shown. A 
single locking member will serve to keep the rod in 




Rod Opzrafinq 
Handle ^ 



JP3& - 



Locking . 
Rods ' 




Eye Bolt- 






Padlock- 




Fig. 29. — Method of Locking Three Drawers With One Pad- 
lock Outlined at A. B— Easily Made Double Bolt for 
Door. C — Secure Hasp and Padlock Fastenings. 



place against the lower staple as indicated and all 
three drawers are prevented from opening. 

Double Bolt for Door. — The double bolt for a door 
may be easily made by following the suggestions 
outlined at Fig. 29, B. This makes a method of locking 
from the inside that cannot be opened from the out- 
side and is especially good for doors of storage sheds 
or stores that are located in an alley or at the back 
end where they cannot be easily kept under surveil- 
lance. The handle is formed of a piece of flat iron 



Useful Home Appliances 71 

about 1" x y%" of suitable length and has three holes 
drilled through it about 3" apart from one end. Two 
iron rods are cut so that their aggregate length is 
about 4" more than the length of the door. An eye 
is made in the end of each rod, which is then attached 
to the handle as indicated by means of bolts or rivets. 
A bolt or lag screw is used as a bearing for the 
handle, this support coming between the two holes 
to which the locking bolt rods are attached. 

The lower ends of the rod are guided by band iron 
clips attached to the door by substantial screws. If 
the door is a high one it may be necessary to guide 
the locking bolts at an intermediate point as well as 
the bottom, but this will not be needed ordinarily. 
Holes to receive the bolts are drilled in the door frame 
at the top and bottom if the construction permits and 
it is well to protect the wood around the holes with 
metal plates screwed to the frame and having a hole 
in the middle to register with that bored into the 
door frame. On some other constructions it may not 
be possible to provide that system of anchoring the 
bolt rod ends. In such cases, a simple angle bracket 
that may be fastened above the door will serve as a 
receptacle for the bolt end. No difficulty will be 
experienced with the bottom bolt because it will al- 
ways be possible to make a hole in the door jamb or 
floor. 

A Secure Locking Means. — When staples are used 
in connection with the ordinary hasp method of lock- 
ing, the door may be opened by anyone who is suffi- 
ciently intelligent to use a claw hammer or pry bar 
to pull the staple out of the wood. A much more se- 
cure method is outlined at Fig. 29, C, in which U-bolts 
are used having a long leg and a short leg. The 
long leg is threaded while the short leg is not. The 
long leg is passed through a hole which goes entirely 



72 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

through the board in the door and at the side of it, 
while the short one goes only part way into the 
wood. If desired the short leg may be pointed so 
that as the nut is tightened against the washer, the 
pointed prong will be drawn firmly into the wood. 
In appearance the U-bolts look just like the staples, 
but as will be evident they cannot be pulled out 
without destroying the piece to which they are 
attached. 

Furnace Door Opener. — The handy man who has 
to shovel his own coal in the furnace often finds it 
uncomfortable to open the hot door by hand, and 
when approaching the furnace with a shovel full of 
coal it is necessary to rest the load on the floor with 
the danger of spilling part of the coal while the door 
is opened or keeping the door open during the stoking 
operation, which results in a material loss of heat due 
to cooling the fire. A very simple arrangement com- 
posed of a piece of wire rope passing over the pulley 
screwed into one of the ceiling joists, one end of which 
is attached to a hinged board as indicated at Fig. 30, A, 
provides a method of opening the door by foot power. 
The wire rope should have sufficient slack in it so 
that the fire box door can be swung open to its full 
opening. The pulley screwed into the ceiling is placed 
a little in front of the door instead of directly over 
it. Any form of hinge may be used to attach the 
pedal board to the floor. 

Furnace Door Stop. — When valves or other fittings 
are carried on a pipe that runs close to the furnace, 
which may be hit by a swinging furnace door, it is 
possible to damage these by the door bumping against 
them if it is not carefully opened. A simple method 
of preventing this trouble and also one that keeps the 
door from swinging too far is to use a triangular 
piece made of band iron which swings from the hinge 



Useful Home Appliances 73 

rod of the furnace door. The method of application 
is clearly shown at Fig. 30, B. 

Automatic Draft Opening Means. — A number of 
devices have been made, some operating on electrical 
principles, and others on mechanical systems that will 
permit opening the furnace draft door any given time. 
The arrangement shown at Fig. 30, C, outlines a com- 
bination of levers, pulleys and weights and may be 
set in motion by an ordinary alarm clock so that the 
furnace draft door may be opened automatically by 
the clock. The door is raised by a cord or a chain 
which may be operated by two methods. One is a 
leverage mechanism, the other is a cord which passes 
through the floor and into one of the upper rooms. 
The automatic operating mechanism is very simple 
though it looks complicated. A trip lever is held from 
the ceiling joists by a simple "A" frame made of 
wood and is held in a vertical position when the door 
is closed by a latch member. The end of the latch 
member is provided with a simple trigger of bent iron, 
while the long end of the trip lever is attached to a 
spool which is fastened to the winding key which is 
employed to wind the clock alarm spring by the 
medium of a cord fastened over a pulley. 

As is well known, when the alarm goes off, the 
winding key turns around. The spool is attached to 
the key by sawing a slit across the top of the spool 
and then gluing it to the key. The alarm is set to 
go off at the desired time one wishes to have the 
draft open and when the spool turns it acts as a 
windlass and winds the cord on it that is attached 
to the trip lever which pulls the long end up and 
allows the short end to which the trigger is fastened 
to drop down. This releases the vertical lever and 
allows the weight to drop down and raise the furnace 
draft door by means of a cord or chain attached to 



74 



Home Mechanic s Workshop 




Useful Home Appliances 75 

this member and which passes over suitable pulleys 
so that the downward motion of the falling weight 
is changed to a vertical or upward motion of the draft 
door which opens it. 

Simple Broom Hanger. — A piece of brass or iron 
wire or rod 3/16" or J4" m diameter bent to the form 
shown at Fig. 31, A, and attached to the wall with a 
couple of screweyes forms a very good holder for 
a broom handle. A short bend is made on one end 
of the straight part so that the hook will be held out 
from the wall far enough to make it an easy matter 
to place the broom handle in the hook. The weight 
of the broom keeps it in position. 

Skirt or Pants Hanger. — An economical hanger for 
skirts and trousers may be made as indicated at Fig. 
31, B. In this, two ordinary metal spring clamp 
clothes-pins are attached to each end of a looped gal- 
vanized iron wire )/&" in diameter. The clothes-pins are 
fastened one at each end of the wire and about 8" 
apart. As the attaching method consists of fastening 
the wire through the hinge of the spring clamp, no 
difficulty is experienced in sliding the clothes-pins 
to adapt these to hold pieces of varying widths. 

Easily Made Door Spring. — An effective and simple 
spring for screen doors or storm doors may be bent 
up by the home mechanic from spring steel wire about 
}i" in diameter. In order to turn the eye and make 
a neat job, the wire should be heated, and while red 
hot should be bent around a piece of wood such as a 
broom handle or an iron pipe. After the bend is 
made the spring may be hardened by heating to a 
red heat and quenching it in oil. The upturned ends 
of the spring are attached to the door and the door 
frame by substantial staples. Two of these springs 
will be suitable for any kind of light door, one placed 



76 



Home Mechanic s Workshop 



near the top and the other near the bottom. For a 
heavier door it may be necessary to use 3 to 6 springs. 
An Economical Door Stop. — A simple door stop 
that will not mar the door or the floor may be bent 
up from a piece of steel or brass wire as shown at 



Wall-, 




Door. 


m> 


f 


Sheet 

[Metal 


T 


1 






w 


i 




) 




Fig. 31. — Simple Bent Wire Devices for the Home. 



Fig. 31, D. This is bent up as shown in the illustration, 
which also clearly outlines this use. The upwardly 
bent hook is provided with a step which goes under 
the door and the back of which acts as a stop to 
keep it from sliding too far under the door. As there 
is considerable spring to the bent wire hook it is 
merely necessary to push the device in place with the 



Useful Home Appliances 



77 





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*s«ms#3 


111 


UJ 



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X 
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0) 


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o 


£ 


C 












a 




a 




< 


^3 


o 


^ 


«4-< 




W 


2 


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o 








w 




0) 




w 


o 


bfl 




3 




CO 

1 




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bib 








to 



78 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

foot to lock the door open in any desired portion of 
its swing. 

An effective door stop can be made of a piece of 
sheet metal such as spring brass which is bent up as 
shown at Fig. 31, E, and which will keep the door from 
swinging against the w r all and the door knobs marring 
the plaster. The bent end is formed so that the door 
knob will ride over it and fit into the groove provided 
for its reception. It is attached to the wall by wood 
screws as is clearly indicated. 

Useful Kitchen Appliances. — Some useful appli- 
ances that may be made by the handy man to assist 
the . housewife in the kitchen work are shown at 
Fig. 32. There is nothing so annoying in cooking as 
to have to grasp a hot kettle handle which has be- 
come heated from resting against the side of the 
kettle. If the handle is supported in a vertical posi- 
tion, it is evident that it will be kept cool enough 
so that it will be grasped without discomfort. A 
simple appliance made of spring wire bent up with 
a hook at one end to hold up the handle and a clip 
at the other end by which it may be attached to the 
side of the kettle will do its work in an effective 
manner. 

Another simple wire fitting that may be easily bent 
up and that will be found very useful is in a form 
of the double clip such as shown at Fig. 32, B. This 
clip can be made of brass wire and will hold a knife 
to a frying pan so that it is not necessary to place 
the utensil on a table or stove when frying anything 
in the pan that needs frequent turning over. 

Easily Made Pan Cover. — It often happens that the 
knobs attached to pot covers become lost or that 
covers must be extemporized in an emergency to re- 
place one that has become damaged or misplaced. A 
scheme outlined at Fig. 32, C, shows how an ordinary 



Useful Home Appliances 79 

spool may be used as a handle by cutting it in half 
and fastening it in place by a small bolt and nut or 
by using a rivet of the proper size. An emergency 
cover that will fit a variety of sizes of kettles can be 
made in this mariner by taking a pie pan and attaching 
a spool in the center to act as a handle. 

Holder for Milk Bottles. — A bent wire holder for 
milk bottles such as shown at Fig. 32, D, may be made 
and attached to the sides of the door by means of 
staples and will prove very useful in keeping the milk 
bottle off of the stairs or porch where it may be 
knocked over by cats or dogs, or taken by irresponsible 
children. The wire is bent so that one end of it forms 
a spring that is used to provide a support for the 
milk bottle bottom and hold it firmly in place in the 
pair of looped arms at the top which encircle the 
neck of the bottle. Such a holder will be of benefit 
to both the delivery man and the housewife in that 
it will save stooping, as it can be attached sufficiently 
high on the wall or door frame so it can be reached 
easily without bending. 

Drinking Glass Holders. — Two forms of drinking 
glass holders which may be easily made by the handy 
man are shown at Fig. 32, E. One of these is made 
by twisting wire so a loop is provided at two points 
in which screws may be inserted by which it is at- 
tached to the wall, while a large cork on the upturned 
hook end is a good support for the glass. The other 
holder is bent up of sheet metal and is also attached 
to the wall by wood screws. As the fitting is shown 
both in the development or pattern form and its ap- 
pearance as bent up, no difficulty should be experienced 
in making it. A piece of sheet brass is the best 
material for constructing this holder, as it may be 
kept brightly polished and cleaned while tinned iron 
would be apt to rust. 



80 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

Keeping Spoon Out of Kettle. — A spoon rest for 
kettles shown at Fig. 32, F, is usually made by taking 
a strip of light sheet metal or band iron, cutting a 
notch at one end that will spring into the kettle 
handle and having a depression in the center to hold 
the bowl of the spoon. In cooking certain materials 
where frequent stirring is necessary the support indi- 
cated is valuable because the spoon is kept in an 
accessible position and any material in the bowd will 
drain back into the kettle. 

Home Water Works. — In some cities the drinking 
water is apt to contain a variety of substances in 
solution that make it necessary to filter it when it is 
used for drinking and yet it is good enough so it 
may be used in its original condition for washing pur- 
poses. By using pipe fittings, the home mechanic 
may easily make a filter that will be cheap and effec- 
tive. This is shown at Fig. 33, A. A "T" is placed 
in the main line just back of the faucet and this holds 
a reducing coupling which supports a piece of 1^4" or 
2" pipe about 6" to 8" long. Another reducing coup- 
ling of the proper size is placed on the upper end to 
which a small faucet is attached by means of a couple 
of nipples and an elbow. Felt or filter paper backed 
with wire gauze is used at both top and bottom of 
the pipe to hold the filtering material, which is char- 
coal, in place. When drinking-water is required it 
may be drawn through the small faucet and filtered 
whereas water for other purposes where cleanliness 
and absolute purity is not essential, may be drawn 
directly from the mains. This is a big advantage 
over the usual form of small household filter in which 
all water used, regardless of the purpose for which 
it is intended, must pass through a small filter fitting 
that contains but little screening material. 

Garden Hose Repair. — Whenever a leaky spot 



Useful Home Appliances 



81 




Fig. 33.— The Home Mechanic Can Easily Make the Effective 
Water Filter Shown at A, and Can Also Make Use of the 
Other Suggestions. 



82 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

occurs in the garden hose it is possible to make a 
good emergency repair that may be kept as a perma- 
nent one if desired, as shown at Fig. 33, B. A y 2 " pipe 
nipple about 4" or 5" long with threads turned on the 
ends, is inserted to couple the two ends of the hose to- 
gether after the defective portion has been cut out. The 
nipple is held securely in place by twisting several 
pieces of hay wire tightly around the hose over the 
threaded portion which causes the rubber to jam in 
between the threads and make a tight joint. Ordinary 
hose clamps may be used for this purpose and will 
be found considerably more effective than the simple 
wire, for if these are used it is not necessary to have 
a threaded nipple, but any short piece of pipe will 
answer for the coupling that will withstand high 
water pressure. 

Keeping Hose Packing Washers in Place. — In tak- 
ing a hose off the bib cock or when removing a 
nozzle from the end of the hose it is not unusual 
to lose the rubber or leather packing washer that 
makes a tight joint at the coupling. The kink shown 
at Fig. 33, C, which consists of putting a short piece 
of pipe in the coupling to hold the washer in place 
is one that will save considerable annoyance when the 
hose is used again. 

Repairing Leaky Faucet. — The ordinary faucet will 
often leak even after new washers have been inserted 
on the valve. This is because particles of sand or 
grit have roughened the valve seat and the washer 
will not fit correctly on the irregular surfaces. A 
method of refacing the valve seat that is very effective 
and that can be easily done by the home mechanic 
is shown at Fig. 33, D. In this, a suitable screw, such 
as a stove bolt 2 J / 2 " or 3" long and a couple of iron 
washers of the proper size to fit the spigot seat, are 
used in the manner indicated. A piece of emery 



Useful Home Appliances 83 

cloth is cut larger in diameter than the valve seat. 
A hole is punched in the center through which a 
screw is passed. If the small washer that is placed 
under the screw head is sufficiently small in diameter 
to fit inside of the valve seat when used, the emery 
cloth will be clamped more tightly against the larger 
washer. The nut of the stove bolt is then screwed 
down firmly against the top of the large washer to 
bring the various parts of the assembly tightly to- 
gether. 

By grasping the end of the bolt in the chuck of 
the hand drill, it will be possible to grind down the 
face of the valve seat without much trouble. Need- 
less to say, the water supply must be turned off before 
the valve and its packing nut are removed from the 
opposite body. The drill press should be held firmly, 
and if the abrasive paper is turned at a moderate speed 
the valve seat will be ground smooth. If the valve 
seat is grooved badly it will be well to start the 
operation by using the coarse emery cloth, then finish- 
ing with finer abrasive. 

Home Made Hose Reel. — One of the common 
causes of garden hose depreciation is because the hose 
is carelessly stored away, usually in a hopeless mass 
of kinked and twisted convolutions. When a hose 
reel is not available the home worker may extem- 
porize one easily by using a nail keg and cross arms 
made of 7/%" x 2" boards. An iron rod, wooden broom 
handle, or an iron pipe may be used as an axle and 
is passed through the center of the cross arms and 
head to act as a bearing. The hose may be easily 
and quickly coiled over this keg to keep it from 
being damaged and also to have turns of sufficiently 
large curvature so the inner walls of the hose will 
not be injured by bending at too sharp angles. 



84 



Home Mechanic s Workshop 



Useful Hand Trucks. — For handling trunks, heavy 
boxes, ash cans and other objects of that nature, a 
hand truck is a very useful thing to have around the 
house. There is not sufficient use in the ordinary 
household for a device of this character to warrant 
the purchase of a warehouse truck, but it is not 
difficult to make a very satisfactory hand truck from 



'Ha net le 



Wooden 
"Platform 




Band Iron 
Clips 



Band Iron 
Frame 



Fig. 34. — How to Convert Worn Out Lawn Mowers to 
Satisfactory Trucks for Handling Boxes and Barrels. 



a discarded lawn mower. The form shown at A, 
Fig. 34, outlines practically all of the mower parts 
except the knife-blades and the roller. After the ro- 
tary cutting-knives are removed and the knife-blade 
is taken off the outer bar, the mower is turned over 
and a piece of board is attached to the cutter bar, 
which forms a substantial platform. A piece of band 
iron is then bent to form a supporting leg that is 



Useful Home Appliances 85 

attached to the lawn mower handle by bolts as 
indicated. 

In the form shown at B, the roller and cutting- 
knives are removed as is the gearing from the interior 
of the wheels. The latter may then revolve on their 
axle without having any connection with the cutter 
shaft. An iron framework is bent up from bar iron 
of suitable size and is held in place by easily made 
clamps and angle pieces which are also bent from 
strip band iron and securely attached to the iron 
frame by suitable bolts. The arms that formerly 
supported the roller are now used to hold the brace 
rod that acts as a support for the lower portion of 
the bent iron frame. The construction is such that 
the truck may be as easily placed under a barrel or 
crate as the usual form of warehouse truck is. The 
truck may be made considerably stronger by extend- 
ing the lawn mower handle as indicated by the dotted 
lines so that it may be attached to the rear brace rod 
by suitable clamps. 

Package Carrier for Bicycles. — A simple and easily 
made accessory that will increase the usefulness of 
a bicycle can be readily contrived by the home me- 
chanic out of odds and ends that will perform the 
work just as well as any luggage carrier purchased 
from the usual sources. The manner in which an 
old bicycle fork, which can be secured from an old 
bicycle frame or from any junk shop, may be em- 
ployed as a substantial support for the carrier board 
is shown at Fig. 35. All that is necessary to use the 
fork as a support is to cut off the tube that projects 
into the steering head so that it will only be about 
\y%" long. The hole in the fork end may have to be 
drilled out as the usual size bicycle front axle is 
5/16", while the axle of the rear hub is generally j£" 
in diameter. The carrier is made of any piece of %" 



86 



Home Mechanics Workshop 




Useful Home Appliances 87 

stock that happens to be available, and a hole is bored 
in this to permit the tube above the fork crown to 
enter into it, and as this has been cut 1^6" long it 
should project J4" above the face of the board. The 
top edges of the hole are chamfered and the tube 
projecting through it is peened over so that the 
board is securely held against the fork crown. 

A notch is cut in the front end of the board to fit 
around the seat post and the board may be held in 
place by either a leather or a metal strap. To fit 
the device to the bicycle, the nuts are removed from 
the ends of the rear wheel axle and the fork ends are 
sprung over the projecting axle, or, if the fork has 
slotted ends, as are sometimes found on front forks, 
these may be pushed right in place after the locking 
nuts are backed off without spreading the fork as 
much as will be necessary if holes and not slots are 
used. It may simplify matters and make installation 
easier if the fork ends are slotted by cutting out the 
metal at one side of the hole with a hacksaw. 

If an old bicycle fork is not available it is easy 
to make a brace that will support the board by either 
of the schemes shown at B, Fig. 35. In one case, 
the support may be made by bending up an )/%" x 1" 
band iron and drilling holes at the top so it may be 
fastened to the carrier board by screws or bolts and 
providing drilled or slotted ends to fit the rear hub 
axle. The other system is to take a piece of ]/\ ff or 
5/16" diameter cold rolled rod, bend up the eye at 
each end and then bend it in the form of an elongated 
"U" member that may be attached to the carrier board 
by staples. In order not to take up too much room 
on the hub axle, the eyes should be flattened so they 
are no more than y%" thick. A number of modifica- 
tions of the carrier shown may be carried out to suit 
the pleasure of the person making it. A light metal 



88 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

rack may be made by bending up band iron strips and 
riveting them together to form a basket, or by attach- 
ing a woven wire basket to the board that may be 
obtained from a hardware store and which is sold for 
parcel carrying purposes. 

Picture Frame Hanging Made Easy. — It is surpris- 
ing what a number of useful appliances, that will 
greatly simplify the work about the home, may be 
made by the use of odds and ends of materials and 
the exercise of a little ingenuity. The picture frame 
hanger shown at Fig. 36, A, is a good example of how ' 
a very simple fixture will make a hard job easy. The 
first step is to form a holder for the hook that fits 
over the moulding which is made of spring brass or 
strip steel by using the hook as a guiding pattern. ' 
This is attached to the top of the pole, which is 
notched out to receive it, by a wood screw. The pic- 
ture cord is passed over the hook, which is then in- 
serted in the holder as shown in the illustration and 
the hook may be easily placed over the moulding with- 
out standing on a chair or stretching to reach the 
moulding. After the picture is in place it is not diffi- 
cult to remove the holder from the hook by simply 
rocking it off by working the bottom of the pole. 

Metal Corners From Tubing. — The home mechanic 
who wishes to put metal corners on a tool box or 
chest of any kind finds it a considerable job to bend 
up a piece of sheet metal to form a reinforcement that 
will have a good sharp bend. A very easy way of 
obtaining clean cut metal corners is to secure square 
section metal tube of the proper size, such as is used 
in making bedsteads, and cutting off the metal at the 
opposite corners with a file as shown at Fig. 36, B. 
When corners at opposite sides are cut off, two 
angle pieces are left that will form a very satisfactory 
reinforcement, after holes are drilled or punched 



Useful Home Appliances 



89 




90 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

through to receive the nails or screws by which they 
are to be fastened to the box corner. 

Fasten Floor Boards. — A simple expedient shown 
at Fig. 36, C, is a good preventive of squeaking floor 
boards. The reason these are noisy when stepped 
upon is that fastenings have loosened due to seasoning 
or drying out of the wood, which allows the sides 
of the boards or their edges to rub together. This 
may be prevented by screwing wood screws of the flat 
head form in between the cracks, which will either 
spread the ends apart slightly so that they will not 
rub, or, which will hold the boards securely in place. 

Making Wood Screws Tight. — When door hinges 
or other pieces that cannot be easily changed in posi- 
tion become loose due to the movement of wood 
screws holding them, these having become loosened 
in the holes, there are several methods of remedying 
the condition. One of them is to drive a wood plug 
in the enlarged holes and then replacing the screws. 
Another way is to use a larger screw, which usually 
calls for drilling out the holes in the hinge so the 
enlarged shank will pass through. The method out- 
lined at Fig. 36, D, which has proven to be successful 
in some applications consists of winding the defective 
diameter of the threaded part and really makes an 
enlarged screw that will be of better fit in the hole. 

Raising a Sagging Door. — An easily applied remedy 
for raising a door that has sagged so that its outer 
ends rub on the floor, and that does not call for 
resetting the hinges, is shown at Fig. 36, E. In this, 
the halves of the hinges are spread apart enough to 
lift the door by placing two washers between the two 
portions of the hinge, so that the door is raised 
slightly. A Y% r washer will often raise the door 
enough so that the end will not rub on the floor. A 
washer should be used in both upper and lower hinges. 



Useful Home Appliances 91 

If the door is supported by three hinges, it will not 
be necessary to use washers in the middle hinge. 

Efficient Cord Cutter. — A blade that has done its 
duty in a safety razor may be used still further by 
fitting it to a block of wood as shown at Fig. 36, F, 
which will form a very good string or cord cutter 
when it is screwed to the end of a counter or a table. 
A notch is cut in the wood piece so that a portion of 
the blade sticks up enough to cut the string when 
it is pressed down into the notch. The blade is 
held in place by screws which pass through the 
wooden piece and when the blade becomes dull it may 
be readily removed for sharpening or for inserting a 
new blade in the holder. The method of construction 
is so clearly shown that any home mechanic can easily 
make this useful device. 

Locating Drain Pan. — One of the annoying house- 
hold tasks is emptying a drain pan from under the 
bottom of the icebox and replacing it after it is emptied 
so that it will be located properly in regard to the 
icebox drip pipe. The kink shown at Fig. 37, A, is 
a simple method of insuring the location of the waste 
water receptacle without stooping over and looking 
under to make sure that it is properly placed under 
the waste opening. Two cleats or wood pieces are 
attached to the floor in a "V" shape under the ice- 
box with the apex of the "V" so located that the 
pan will be in the center under the drip pipe if both 
sides of it are in contact with the guiding strips. 

Preventing Splash of Waste Water. — Another 
method of insuring that the drainage from the icebox 
will fall into the pan and not on the floor is outlined 
at Fig. 37, B. In this, the water container is carried 
in the basement and the waste water is directed 
through the floor under the refrigerator by a funnel. 
In some cases, there is no connection between the 



92 



Home Mechanic's Workshop 




Fig. 37. — Method of Handling the Ice Box Drippings are 
Shown at A and B. Brush and Broom Improvement Out- 
lined at C, D and E. 



Useful Home Appliances 93 

bottom of the funnel and the pan and the water must 
drop 8 or 10 feet. If the pan is set on the floor, 
the water will splash around and cause an annoying 
wetted area around the pan that must be mopped up 
constantly. There are two methods of making sure 
that the water will reach the pan without splashing. 
An obvious one is to connect the bottom of the fun- 
nel with the waste water pan by means of a piece 
of rubber hose. The method shown is a cheap and 
effective one. A piece of wire is bent to fit the side 
of the funnel spout and a piece of string attached 
to it leads down to the pan. The water will drip 
down by following the string and will not splash 
because of its gradual movement. When the string 
becomes dirty it may be easily removed. 

Cleaning Dirt Out of Corners. — It is hard to reach 
the corners of a room with an ordinary form of floor 
brush- when scrubbing floors and dirt will collect there 
and become so hard that it cannot be washed out. 
The handy man may put a simple attachment on the 
end of the floor brush handle that will make it pos- 
sible to thoroughly clean out the corners without hav- 
ing to get up and get an old kitchen knife to do the 
work. The pointed piece of metal is attached to the 
handle by wood screws as shown at Fig. 37, C. 

Another expedient when sweeping out corners is 
to take a worn broom that is no longer useful for 
ordinary sweeping and to cut the straws off diagonally 
as shown at Fig. 37, D, so that the pointed end will 
go into the smallest corner and remove the dirt col- 
lected there. A broom of this kind is especially useful 
in sweeping boxed-in stairs where there are numerous 
corners. 

Combined Broom and Ice Pick. — The home mechan- 
ic will find that if he adds an ice chipper to a large 
broom handle as shown at Fig. 37, E, that he has a 



94 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

very satisfactory appliance for removing a light fall 
of snow from the sidewalks and when he encounters 
a piece of ice, it may be easily chipped by reversing 
the position of the broom and then the loosened 
particles may be swept off by using the other end. 
Combining the two appliances that must be used to- 
gether in this way saves space, time and makes it 
easier to do the work. 

Sleeve Pressing Board. — The handy man who wishes 
to exercise his wood-working talents can not only in- 
crease his knowledge of wood-working but also make 
a number of devices and household appliances that 
have real merit. As an example of what may be 
done, the sleeve pressing board at Fig. 38, A, may be 
constructed. It is composed of a piece of board about 
30" long, 8" wide and %" thick, to which two stand- 
ards or short upright pieces are nailed to support the 
sleeve board, which is cut out of a piece of %" stock 
of the desired shape and size. The sleeve board may 
be hinged to one of the supporting pieces by using 
screw-eyes, which are screwed into the bottom of the 
board and, which are guided by screws let into the 
sides of the standard that supports the big end of the 
board. It is also possible to use an ordinary form of 
hinge for this purpose, but if a removable hinge is 
provided, the boards may be readily taken down if 
desired. 

Ironing Board Support. — The ironing board support 
as shown at Fig. 38, B, is also a useful appliance, as 
it enables one to swing the ordinary form of ironing 
board from the edge of a kitchen table and thus 
secure more supporting surface when ironing large 
pieces. This support is made of a piece of 1J4" thick 
board provided with two notches at one end as shown. 
It is made of proper length, which can best be deter- 
mined bv experiment so the ironinsr board will be 



Useful Home Appliances 



95 




Fig. 38.— Miscellaneous Useful Household Appliances That 
May Be Made by the Home Mechanic Who Understands 
Wood-working. 



96 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

held firmly against the projecting table top. A slot 
is cut into the big end of the ironing board, which has 
been squared off, wide enough to receive the sup- 
porting leg and about 4" long. This admits the one 
supporting member to the notch, clamping down one 
notch cut in it on the table, and the other notch 
holding the ironing board up as indicated. In order 
to provide more supporting area for the board, a 
piece of wood of triangular form may be attached to 
the leg as an added support or a piece of band iron 
bent to the form shown, may be secured to the support. 
It will be found that a supporting leg of this kind 
will give a very good support to the ironing board 
and as that member is held at only one end, it can be 
used to special advantage in ironing skirts and dresses, 
which can be pushed over the open end easily. 

Simple Shoe Polishing Stand. — A shoe polishing 
stand that will assist materially in keeping the shoes 
of the members of the household properly cleaned may 
be made by following the suggestions and illustrations 
at Fig. 38, C. The ends may be made of %" stock and 
approximately to the dimensions indicated. The side 
pieces may be made of lighter stock and the bottom 
board, which is nailed across the two end pieces and 
attached to the side pieces to form a box, may be 
made of any desired materials. The box is very useful 
for holding polishing cloths, brushes and polishes. 
The top piece, which serves to support the foot, is 
shaped approximately as the sole of the shoe is, and 
is made of a block of wood about 3" wide, 9" long and 
2" thick. It is attached to the upright standards or 
end pieces by means of angle pieces securely fastened 
to the block and end pieces by wood screws, or by 
long wood screws running through the block from the 
top extending into the side pieces. 



Useful Home Appliances 97 

Indoor Clothes Hanger. — An overhead clothes 
hanger, such as shown at Fig. 38, D, is very useful 
for handling small washings during wet or cloudy 
weather. It is especially valuable in a household 
where there are children. It is easily made and in- 
stalled, and will be of great convenience to the house- 
wife as it can be kept out of the way by being raised 
close to the ceiling when not in use. It may be 
made in the form of a square frame of wood or a 
substantial centerpiece to which the two end pieces 
are attached. Lines are stretched from the end pieces 
to which the clothes are hung. The assembly is 
raised by simple cord connections, which pass over 
pulleys fastened to the ceiling. The end of the cord 
is attached to an anchoring hook or cleat on the wall 
and the device may be readily lowered for hanging the 
clothes and then raised out of the way close to the 
ceiling while the clothes are drying or when the 
appliance is not in use. The dimensions indicated are 
only given as a guide and obviously may be varied 
to suit the requirements of the individual, and the 
space available for hanging the dryer. 

Improving Linen Closets. — A number of ways in 
which the capacity of closets of various kinds may be 
increased and the material stored away in them made 
more accessible are clearly outlined at Fig. 39, and 
the suggestions given are of such character that it 
may be easily followed by the home mechanic. The 
combined drawer and shelf, which is composed of a 
shallow tray opened at the front as outlined at Fig. 
39, A, is much superior to either drawers or shelves 
of the ordinary form for storing away household 
linen such as sheets, towels, napkins, tablecloths 
and other such objects, which may be piled up neatly 
on the sliding shelf. When a shelf is pulled out it 
is possible to reach the material at the back end as 



98 



Home Mechanic s Workshop 




Useful Home Appliances 99 

easily as at the front. The shelves or trays are easily 
made in the usual manner, being simply shallow 
boxes without a front board and with the ends 
rounded. A draw pull is attached to each shelf so 
that it may be easily pulled out of place. As many 
holders are provided as is deemed necessary and the 
door of the 'closet will keep out the dust. 

Storing Kettles and Pans. — The illustration at B 
outlines a cupboard in which various kitchen utensils 
may be stored in orderly fashion without occupying 
an excessive amount of room and at the same time 
being out of sight and readily accessible. The cup- 
board is a simply made box of sufficient depth and 
width to receive the largest of the utensils ordinarily 
used. It may be made as high as desired, but it is 
not advised to make it more than 7' high, as any pot 
or pan may be reached easily if that height is con- 
sidered the maximum. The sides of the closet are 
provided with small wooden cleats to form the shelf 
rest, or the sides may be scored at even intervals, 
say every 4", with sawcuts about y%" deep. The 
shelves may consist of squares of galvanized iron and 
are held in place by being inserted into the grooves 
or rested on the cleats. It is recommended that the 
groove system be followed because the shelves are 
held securely and may be readily adjusted in different 
grooves to accommodate utensils of different sizes. 
The closet may be made of any desired wood, which 
may be given a finish to match the woodwork of the 
kitchen. If it is desired to paint the cabinet white, 
the wood used need not be so good in quality as that 
necessary if a natural finish is desired. The door may 
be made in paneled form and is attached to the closet 
by suitable hinges. 

Trouser Hanger for Closet. — An easily made trouser 
hanger that will provide accommodations for from 



100 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

four to six pairs without losing the crease, may be 
easily made by the handy man as illustrated at Fig. 

39, C. A wood frame is made, which is hinged to the 
inner side of the door, having chains to prevent it 
from dropping too far when it is released. Cross bars 
made of brass curtain rods, or of steel rods are as- 
sembled into the frame as shown, over which the 
trousers are hung. The frame is lowered to remove 
the trousers or to place them in position, and after 
these are in place, the frame is swung up flat against 
the door and held in position by a small hook and 
screw-eye arrangement. 

Installing Curtain Pole. — The method of hanging a 
pole or support for curtains or portieres, shown at Fig. 

40, A, is a very good one, because no fixtures are need- 
ed and the pole is held as securely as though more 
expensive fastenings were employed. The pole is cut 
about *4" shorter than the space between the door 
casings. A y%" hole is drilled in each end, one about 
Y%" deep and the other about 1^4" deep. Ordinary 
screws, having a y%" wide flat or button head, are 
screwed into the door frame to act as bearings for the 
pole. A coil spring is placed in the deep hole as indi- 
cated. To put the pole in place, the end containing 
the spring is put on the screw, which projects the 
furthest and the spring is compressed enough so that 
the pole may be moved up opposite the other support- 
ing screwhead and placed over it. The pressure of the 
coil spring will keep the pole in place on the screws. 
If button head screws are used a superior bearing will 
be obtained as the screwheads will not cut into the 
pole. 

Using Electric Flatiron for Stove. — A method of 
supporting an electric flatiron so that it may be used 
for heating water is shown at Fig. 40, B. A piece of 
sheet metal is cut to the shape indicated and when the 



Useful Home Appliances 



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102 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

legs are bent up it forms an effective support for the 
electric iron. The frame may be made of wire or any 
other heat-resisting material. The utility of the ordi- 
nary electric flatiron for this work is so well recog- 
nized that some makers of these appliances furnish a 
stand with it so that it can be used as a hot plate 
or stove when desired. 

Range Boiler Repair. — It is a general impression 
that is fostered by plumbers, that punctured hot water 
range boilers cannot be repaired and they are justified 
in their claim to some extent if repairs are attempted 
by means of solder, which will not always hold against 
pressure. Of course, if the home mechanic is a capa- 
ble workman and understands the method of sweating 
a patch in place on the boiler, a secure repair may be 
made. The method shown at Fig. 40, C, has been rec- 
ommended and will make a satisfactory repair in 
some cases. The tapering end punch is driven into 
the hole so that the point of a small machine screw or 
small pipe plug will just enter. A tap is then screwed 
into the hole to cut the thread and a suitable plug or 
screw is screwed in after its threads have been smeared 
with red lead or other pipe joint compound. If solder 
is run in around the threads and the projecting por- 
tion of the screw or plug, an absolutely tight joint 
will be obtained. 

Cheap Candle Lamp. — The candlestick holder shown 
at Fig. 40, D, is easily made and will prevent the candle 
from being blown out by the wind, as it is carried 
from place to place. A block of wood of the same 
diameter as the lamp chimney forms the base to which 
spring clips are tacked or screwed to hold the chim- 
ney in place. The size of the candle base is marked 
out on the block by tracing its outline with a lead 
pencil, and three fine wire nails are driven in the 
block, spaced equidistant on the circle, indicating the 



Useful Home Appliances 103 

base of the candle to form a holder for it. Short 
candles are used and as the flame burns steadily 
without the flicker that is noticed when the candle is 
exposed, as in the ordinary candlestick, a good light is 
obtained. Another advantage is that the candle lamp 
is much safer than the usual open form, as curtains 
cannot come in contact with the flame, as it is pro- 
tected by a chimney. The wood block is set into a 
metal saucer to which a ring or piece of sheet material 
is soldered to serve as a finger hold, or it may be used 
without the pan by attaching it to a larger block. 

Keeping Soot in the Stove Pipe. — One of the* tasks 
that is not relished by either the housewife or the 
home mechanic is removing the stove pipe for clean- 
ing, as the dirt and soot collects in the pipe and 
falls out all over the clean floor and over the persons 
manipulating the pipe. A simple cloth cap, as shown 
at Fig. 40, E, may be held in place over the open end 
of the pipe by a piece of rubber band provided with 
any suitable fastening. A paper bag tied on with 
a piece of twine will answer the purpose and keep 
the soot in the pipe while it is being carried. In 
localities where several stoves must be taken down 
every spring and stored away for the summer, this 
little hint will be found of value. 

Clipping Trees Without a Ladder. — An extension 
handle for a tree clipper may be easily extemporized 
for pruning high branches on small trees that are not 
sufficiently strong to hold a ladder is shown at Fig. 
40, F. A crosspiece is nailed to the end of a long 
handle, and the clippers are securely attached to it by 
means of heavy cord or wire. The jaws are kept 
apart by a coil spring which fits into a hole drilled in 
one of the cutting blades at one end and around the 
finger rest hook at the other. A wire or cord is 
attached to the movable clipper handle and forms a 



104 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

connection by which the operator on the ground may 
move the clipper jaw to cut off small branches and 
twigs that are ordinarily removed in pruning and that 
could not be reached in any other way. 

Emptying Square Oil Can. — When turning oil from 
a square oil can an inexperienced person is apt to 
spill a considerable amount because the oil gurgles 
out and runs down the side of the can as indicated at 
Fig. 40, G. The can should be held so that the opening 
is at the upper corner instead of the lower one, and 
the stream of oil coming out of the hole should not 
be the full size of the orifice, in order to allow air 
to enter the can and take the place of the displaced oil. 

Doubling Capacity of Spring Balance. — Spring 
scales ordinarily used in the household, whether of the 
platform type or of the extensible spring form are 
limited in capacity, and when it is desired to weigh 
the contents of a package that weighs more than the 
capacity of the scale, the usual method is to weigh 
the contents of the package in sections if the material 
is of such form that it may be divided into smaller 
packages. It is sometimes necessary to weigh a large 
package that cannot be divided, so the suggestion 
given at Fig. 40, H, may be followed. In this, a simple 
beam or lever is used and the package to be weighed 
is suspended from its center. One end of the beam 
may be hung from any suitable support, which should 
be on a line with the top of the scale, while the other 
end is attached to the scale hook or pan, resting on 
the center of the latter, depending on the type of 
spring balance employed. In this way, packages 
weighing twice as much as the capacity of the scale 
may be weighed, as only half the weight of the pack- 
age will be indicated by the spring balance. While 
the beam shown is carefully made, any odd stick can 
be used as a lever. The necessary precautions to 



Useful Home Appliances 105 

insure accuracy in weighing are, that this rests at but 
a single point at either end and that the hook for 
supporting the package be placed directly in the center 
of the beam. 

Simple Magazine Rack. — The handy man or boy, 
who would like to try his hand at simple joiner work 
or cabinet making, can spend several evenings profit- 
ably in making the magazine stand shown at Fig. 41. 
The material recommended is quarter sawed white 
oak, though it may be made of other wood, such as 
maple or birch, and stained or painted any suitable 
finish. When white oak is used, the wood may be 
fumed, because it contains tannic acid, while a smooth 
surface wood, such as birch, takes a mahogany stain 
well, or an enamel. Even such an ordinary wood as 
white or yellow pine may be used if the stand is to be 
painted. The stock may be ordered from the mill 
cut to sizes as given in the following bill of material, 
or the workman may get the pieces out himself from 
whatever odds and ends of lumber he has available. 

BILL OF MATERIALS 

Name of Part No. Required Size 

Legs or Corner Posts 4 \y 2 " x \y 2 " x 48" 

Shelves 4 %" x 15*6" x 16^" 

Vertical Side Pieces 2 . %" x 3" x 35" 

Horizontal Side Pieces 2 %" x 6" x 15" 

Horizontal Side Pieces 2 %"x4"xl5" 

In building the rack, the first thing to do is to 
assemble the sides. Cut the tenons on the top and 
bottom horizontal side pieces, and also on the vertical 
side strips. The mortises are cut exactly in the cen- 
ter of the side pieces to receive the tenons on the 
vertical pieces. The corner posts are then mortised 
out to receive the tenons on the ends of the horizontal 



106 Home Mechanic s Workshop 











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the Home Workshop. 



Useful Home Appliances 



107 



side pieces. These pieces are glued and held together 
by clamps for at least 24 hours. The shelves may be 
cut of one wide board or built up as conditions de- 
mand. The corners should be cut accurately so they 
will fit the legs. There is a variety of ways of securing 
the shelves to the corner posts. They may be held 



Hammer 



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Fig. 42.— A Tool Cabinet for the Home Workshop. 



by flush head wood screws, by small lags or by nails. 
The sides and shelves should be scraped and smoothed 
with sand paper before assembling, as the work is 
more easily done when the parts are separated. In 
sanding, one should always rub with the grain of the 
wood to avoid scratches. 

Fuming is accomplished by standing the finished 
rack, if of oak, in an air-tight box, and standing several 



108 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

dishes of strong ammonia around the stand where the 
fumes will rise. The ammonia will react with the 
acid in the oak and after ten hours, a deep rich brown 
shade will result. Any cracks in the box or its cover 
may be sealed sufficiently tight by pasting strips of 
paper over them to keep the fumes confined around 
the rack. After the wood is colored, a furniture wax 
finish should be applied. 

Cabinet for Wood-working Tools. — The cabinet 
shown at Fig. 42 is not difficult to make and provides 
an ideal place for storing away wood-working tools 
when not in use, so these are kept clean, dry and in 
good condition as regards cutting edges. It may be 
made of cheap wood and painted, but if the home 
mechanic wishes to make a real job of it, he can use 
oak, walnut or mahogany, or combinations of wood to 
make a cabinet that will be ornamental as well as 
useful. 

The cabinet consists of two shallow boxes, one 
serving as a cover for the other. The shallowest box 
serves as a cover or front half and is 32" high by 
19" wide by 3%" thick, outside dimensions. The panel 
front is made of a frame of %" stock to which a y 2 " 
thick panel board, 14" x 26" is attached, being held 
in place by a suitable rabbet or ledge in the frame 
pieces. The deeper box is made entirely of %" stuff, 
and is 32" high by 19" wide by 5^s" deep, outside 
dimensions. If the stock is dressed down to £4" thick- 
ness, the dimensions will vary slightly from those 
given. A shelf is placed 3 1/16" above the bottom 
and a small drawer fills the space between the shelf 
and bottom of the rear half as shown. The only 
mortise and tenon joints are in the front panel frame, 
the top and bottom end frame pieces carrying tenons 
to fit mortises in the side pieces. All other joints 
except those of the panel front and drawer, are of the 



Useful Home Appliances 



109 



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110 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

butt nailed or screwed joint form. The drawer front 
is made of y 2 " stock, the sides, back and bottom is 
*4" thick stock. The two halves of the cabinet are 
held together by hinges so that the front half may be 
swung open and all the tools the cabinet contains will 
be easily accessible. 

The drawer shown is used for smaller tools such 
as punches, nail sets, chisels, etc., that are not provided 
for otherwise. A tool-holding piece is placed at the 
bottom of the front half of the cabinet. Two holes 
are cut into the face to receive the drawer pulls, and 
a series of holes are drilled in the top to receive various 
bits and other tools. As all dimensions are given, as 
well as structural details, the home mechanic will have 
no trouble in following the diagrams and building a 
practical cabinet that will last a lifetime. The bill 
of materials appended gives the sizes of the pieces 
needed to complete the work. The length given for 
the front frame top and bottom end pieces, allows for 
cutting the tenons in the ends. The ledge running 
around the inside of the frame may be cut in with 
a plow plane or may be made by making a saw cut 
of the proper depth on the face of the pieces before 
assembly, and cutting in to meet it with a chisel, grad- 
ually cutting out the material. 



BILL OF MATERIALS 

Front Half of Cabinet 

Xame of Piece No. Required Size 

Front Panel Frame Side Piece .... 2 ^" x 3" x 32" 

Front Panel Frame End Piece 2 %" x 3" x 16^' 

Front Box Sides 2 %" x 3" x 32" 

Front Box Ends 2 7/ 8 " x 3" x \7 V 4 ' 

Front Panel 1 y 2 " * 14" x 26" 

Tool Holding Block 1 2" x 3" x \7H' 



Useful Home Appliances m 



Rear Half of Cabinet 

Rear Box Sides 2 

Rear Box Ends 2 

Back Board 2 

Back Board 1 

Shelf Board 1 

Drawer Front 1 

Drawer Back 1 

Drawer Ends 2 

Drawer Bottom 1 



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CHAPTER IV 

HOW TO DO THINGS ELECTRICAL 

Electric Bell and Annunciator Wiring — Push Button Construc- 
tion — Electric Wires and Wiring — Simple Batteries — Dry 
Cells — Wiring Dry Cells — Electric Bell Construction — 
Simple Bell Circuits — Conventional Domestic Installation — 
Joining Wires — Overflow Alarm — Simple Annunciator — Elec- 
tric Alarm Clock — Simple Fire Alarms — Simple Terminals — 
Magnetizing Shears — Using Partly W r orn Zincs — Cost of 
Operating Electric Cooking and Heating Devices — Electri- 
cally Operated Door Locks — Replacing Defective Fuses — 
Simple Attachment Plugs — Controlling One Lamp From Two 
Points — Home-Made Night Light — Drop Light Adjusters. 

In a treatise of this kind, one cannot expect to give 
detailed information that will make an electrician out 
of the average man, but there are many little electrical 
jobs that can be done by the home mechanic even 
though he is not versed in all phases of electrical 
science. In this chapter, the various electrical jobs 
one could expect to do around the home are described 
and illustrated, but no instructions are given for power 
motor installation because such work calls for a 
licensed electrician, as does house wiring for lighting. 
Bell and annunciator work is easily performed without 
danger, so it is gone into in some detail. 

Electric Bell and Annunciator Wiring. — One of the 
most frequent electrical jobs of the handy man around 
the house is tracing out trouble in bell wiring circuits, 
or in installing call bells or annunciators to supplement 
those already in the house. It is often necessary to 

112 



Push Button Construction 113 

install a bell in an upstairs bedroom, with a push 
button downstairs or to rig up various forms of 
alarms, and a knowledge of simple wiring will be 
found advantageous in many ways. The parts of an 
electric bell system are simple and not hard to under- 
stand. For a simple circuit, one needs batteries which 
are a source of current, a push button switch to control 
the electrical flow, wires over which the electricity can 
pass, and bell or annunciators in which the electricity 
performs useful work. 

Push Button Construction. — The construction of a 
simple push button switch is clearly shown at Fig. 
44, A. This consists of a base block of wood or other 
insulating material to which a metal contact strip is 
attached, which lies flat on the base and also a con- 
tact spring which is normally out of contact with the 
lower strip, unless it is pressed down against it by 
a push button. The push button is always made of 
insulating material. In the cheaper switches, wood 
or hard rubber is used ; in more expensive ones, ivory 
is sometimes employed. It will be evident that when 
the spiral or curved spring is brought in contact with 
the strip on the face of the switch, that the circuit 
will be closed and current can flow through as long 
as the push button is kept pressed down. As soon as 
the pressure is released from the push button, the 
contact spring has sufficient elasticity to keep the push 
button pressed up and it is no longer in contact with 
the lower spring. On account of the air space exist- 
ing between the springs, no current can pass and the 
circuit is broken. 

When trouble is experienced with an electric bell, 
if the push button is installed in an exposed place, it 
is important to unscrew the cover and make sure that 
the contact springs are not corroded and that a clean, 
metallic surface is present at the contacts. The wires 



114 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

should also be tested at the point where they join on 
to the metal strips in the switch, as the screws holding 
them may be loose. 

Electric Wires and Wiring. — The various wires that 
are used in electrical installations for both lighting or 
bell work differ according to the amount of voltage 
and amperage of the current passing over them. 
Wires to be used in a lighting circuit of 110 volts or 
220 volts pressure, must be more heavily insulated 
than those which carry only a few volts, such as used 
in bell ringing or annunciator circuits. Wire ordi- 
narily known as "bell wire" may be purchased at any 
hardware store, wound on spools of various capacity. 
This gauge is No. 16 or No. 18, and it is a single 
strand of copper covered with wax thread insulation. 
Sometimes this bell wire may be obtained in duplex or 
other multiple strand cables. The wire used for light- 
ing purposes is usually a twisted cord having a mul- 
tiple strand conductor, which is protected by both rub- 
ber and woven fabric insulation. 

Bell wire may be obtained with insulation of various 
colors and combinations of outer covering weaves, so 
that in running a number of circuits where the separate 
wires must run along together, it is possible to recog- 
nize the various wires of a circuit by their difference 
in insulation when these are all brought out at a com- 
mon point. If this were not done confusion with 
other wires might otherwise exist in making a connec- 
tion. The method of holding the wiring in place is 
very simple. Twisted cord, or as it is sometimes 
called, "twisted pair," may be held by special tacks 
having an insulating head as shown at Fig. 44, B, by 
fibre cleats held by nails or screws, as outlined at Fig. 
44, C, and by staples shown at D, or staples provided 
with a fibre saddle as shown at E. Wherever wires 
carry currents of moderately high voltage, this fibre 



How to Do Things Electrical 



115 




Fig. 44.— Push Button Switch Construction Shown at A. 
Wiring and Staples for Holding It in Place Shown in 
Other Drawings. 



116 Home Mechanics Workshop 

should always be interposed between the wire and the 
staple as shown at Fig. 44, E. 

The simple staples are not recommended even for 
bell work unless they are carefully driven down, for, 
if they are put in place with heavy hammer blows, they 
are apt to cut through the insulation and even break 
the wires. The former may cause a short circuit, the 
latter will surely result in an open circuit. In running 
wires on old work, advantage is taken of door frames, 
picture mouldings and other interior trim to conceal 
the wires. In new work it is evident that they may 
be run before the plastering is done and this can be 
properly concealed. 

Simple Batteries. — The batteries used to supply 
electricity are of the open circuit type and operate on 
the same principle, even though they differ materially 
in construction as shown at Fig. 45. The wet cell, 
or modified Leclanche, has long been poplar because 
of its cheapness and simplicity, and the ease with 
which the elements may be cleaned and solution re- 
newed. It consists of a carbon cylinder as outlined at 
A, having a boss on one side through which the ter- 
minal post passes, and a hole at the center to receive 
a porcelain insulator that supports the zinc stick and 
keeps it from electrical contact with the carbon. The 
carbon cylinder is flanged to fit into a suitable glass 
jar. The solution is ammonium-chloride or sal-am- 
moniac and water. The charge is about 3 onces salt 
to three-quarters the contents of the battery jar of 
water. When the current output becomes weakened 
from a cell of this kind, it is usually due to the electro- 
lyte becoming weak through crystallization of the salt, 
or the zinc stick being eaten away. 

The cell may be restored to efficiency by removing 
the old solution and crystals deposited in the jar and 
on the carbon cylinder by thorough washing in warm 



How to Bo Things Electrical 



117 




Fig. 45.— -Sal-Ammoniac Cell Used for Bell and Annunciator 
Work Shown at A. The Dry Cell is Shown at B and 
Method of Testing With Amperemeter at C. 



118 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

or hot water. The carbon cylinder is then scraped in- 
side to secure a good surface and set in the sun until 
dry. A new solution is made to which is added a table- 
spoonful of cane sugar, which prevents or reduces the 
deposition of salt crystals, a new zinc stick is inserted 
in the carbon cylinder and the whole placed in the jar. 
The terminals of both carbon and zinc stick should be 
bright and clean and the wire brightened where fas- 
tened to the terminals, by scraping off any shreds of 
insulation or particles of wax adhering to it, and hav- 
ing a clean, bright copper in contact with the terminal 
screw or nut. 

Dry Cell Batteries. — A cleaner and more convenient 
type of current producer is becoming popular for bell 
ringing and other household demands for intermittent 
supply such as annunciators, alarms, etc. This is 
known as a dry cell and consists of a zinc can, in the 
center of which a carbon rod is placed as shown at 
Fig. 45, B. The electrolyte is held close to the zinc 
or active member by an absorbent lining of blotting 
paper and the carbon rod is surrounded by some de- 
polarizing material. The top of the cell is sealed with 
pitch to prevent loss of depolarizer. 

The depolarizer is needed that the cell may continue 
to generate current. When the circuit of a simple 
cell is completed the current generation is brisker than 
after the cell has been producing electricity for a time. 
While the cell has been in action the carbon element 
becomes covered with bubbles of hydrogen gas, which 
is a poor conductor of electricity, and tends to de- 
crease the current output of the cell. To prevent 
these bubbles from interfering with current gener- 
ation, some means must be provided for disposing of 
the gas. In dry cells, the hydrogen gas that causes 
polarization is combined with oxygen gas evolved by 
the depolarizing medium and the combination of these 



Wiring Dry Cells 119 

two gases produces water which does not interfere 
with the action of the cell. Carbon is used in a dry 
cell because it is a cheap and satisfactory inactive ma- 
terial, and the electrolyte is a mixture of sal-ammoniac 
and chloride of zinc, which is held in intimate contact 
with the zinc shell which forms the active element, by 
a blotting-paper lining. 

Wiring Dry Cells. A single dry cell will not pro- 
duce sufficient current to ring a bell energetically, 
therefore it is common practice to combine two or 
more cells in such a manner that batteries are formed 
which will give more power than a single cell. If it 
is desired to increase the voltage, the cells are con- 
nected in series. If one dry cell will produce one and 
one-half volts, and three volts are needed, the current 
value of one dry cell is augmented by coupling one 
more to it in a series connection. When cells are 
connected in series it is the unlike elements which are 
joined together. For example, the zinc of one cell 
should be joined with the carbon of the adjacent mem- 
ber by a flexible conductor. This will leave the carbon 
of one end cell and the zinc of the other end cell 
free, so that they can be joined to the apparatus in 
the outer circuit. 

When it is desired to obtain more amperage or cur- 
rent quantity than could be obtained from a single 
cell, as in lighting, they are joined in series-multiple 
connection. With this method of wiring two or more 
sets of any reasonable number of cells, which have 
been joined in series are used. The zinc of one set is 
joined with the zinc element of the others and the 
carbons are similarly connected. Any number of sets 
of cells may be connected in series-multiple, and the 
amperage of the combination is increased proportion- 
ately to the number of sets joined together in this 
manner. 



120 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

When either dry or wet cells are connected in series, 
the voltage of one cell is multiplied by the number of 
cells and the amperage obtained from the set is equal 
to the amperage of one cell. When connected in mul- 
tiple, the amperage is multiplied by the number of 
cells so joined, but the voltage is that of one cell. 



Gong 




Vibrating 



Single Stroke 



Combina+ion Single 
Stroke and Vibrating 



Fig. 46. — Wiring Connections of Three Different Types of 
Electric Alarm Bells. 



When the amperage of a dry cell, tested by a small 
meter as shown at Fig. 45, C, is less than four or five 
amperes it should be discarded and a new one sup- 
plied, because there is no really economical method of 
recharging them. 

Electric Bell Construction. — The electric bells that 
are used are very simple in construction. An electro- 
magnet attracts the armature, to which a clapper or 
striking rod that hits the gong is attached. When a 
current of electricity passes through the bell, it ener- 
gizes the magnet which attracts the armature, causing 



Electrical Bell Construction 121 

the clapper to ring the bell. The vibrating bell, such 
as shown at Fig. 46, A, is a type only used for alarm 
purposes. The wiring is very clearly shown in the 
diagram. The armature spring serves to convey the 
current from one terminal through a platinum tipped 
contact screw to the winding around one leg of the 
magnet. From that point the current flows to the 
coil around the other leg of the magnet and from that 
to the remaining terminal on the bell base. 

The reason the bell vibrates is due to the auto- 
matic breaking of the circuit, which is accomplished 
when the armature is attracted by the magnet. As 
soon as this happens, the contact is broken at the 
adjustable screw, the magnet ceases to attract the 
armature which flies back because of the spring and 
again comes in contact with the screw. Naturally, as 
the current can again flow through the magnet wind- 
ings, the magnet cores are again energized and will 
attract the armature. Each time that the armature 
is attracted, the striking hammer will give the gong 
a blow and usually the adjustment is such that the 
armature will vibrate many times a second. 

The single stroke form of bell, which is shown at 
Fig. 46, B, has no contact screw and does not vibrate. 
It strikes the bell once for each time the push button 
is pressed down. For this reason it is well adapted 
for code signaling purposes. The combination form 
of bell, which is shown at Fig. 46, C, has three ter- 
minals and is wired in such a way that it may be 
employed either as a single stroke bell through one 
push button, and as a vibrating bell if operated through 
another button. 

Simple Bell Circuits. — A variety of bell circuits are 
shown at Fig. 47. That at A is the simplest and 
consists merely of a push button and battery in series 
with the bell. When the push button switch is oper- 



122 



Home Mechanic s Workshop 




Fig. 47. — Call Bell Circuits, the Simplest Being Shown at A. 
B — Ringing One Bell From Two Points. C — Ringing 
Two Bells From One Point. D— How One Battery Can 
Serve Three Circuits. 



Conventional Domestic Installation 123 

ated, the circuit for the passage of electricity is com- 
plete and the bell will ring. By placing two push 
buttons in parallel connection as shown at Fig. 47, B, 
it is possible to operate the bell from two different 
places. If it is desired to actuate two bells with one 
push button, the circuit is as outlined at Fig. 47, C. In 
this case, the bells are in parallel connection, though 



Rear Door 
~ Be/I 



Front Door 
Bell 



Q 



Dining Room 
' Buzzer 



f41 



i 



x. 



line 



Button 



\ Front Door 
" Button 



Rear Door ,' 
Button ' 



Fig. 48. — The Conventional Domestic Call Bell Installation 
Shown by Simplified Diagram. 



each bell is in series with the battery and push but- 
ton. When it is desired to operate two or more bells, 
each with its own push button control, the circuits 
may be arranged as shown at Fig. 47, B. 

Conventional Domestic Installation. — The usual 
domestic installation is as shown at Fig. 48. Two 
bells and a buzzer are provided, all of which are placed 
in the kitchen or pantry. One control button is used 
to ring the front door bell ; one is installed at the 
back door to ring the bell having a square gong, so 
as to give it a different tone and the push button con- 
trolling the dining room buzzer is generally in the 
form of a foot controlled switch, placed under the rug 



124 



Home Mechanic s Workshop 



where it can be operated without difficulty by the 
head of the family. The wiring involved is very 
clearly shown and, while all parts of the system are 
grouped completely in the diagram, it will be evident 
that any of the wires shown may be extended as much 
as necessary to establish the desired connection be- 
tween the parts comprising the circuit. Two dry bat- 
teries or wet cells, such as shown at Fig. 45, may be 
used if the wiring is not unusually long, and it is safe 
to say, that three bells at the most will furnish suffi- 
cient voltage for any ordinary domestic installation. 
For a short run, or where the bell is not a loud ring- 





^ fo«MAVtt60i«J (jjj 


/jOOTliMllif 


i ujii — '* -^~ - ■ — *~~ffiT~n — ■ 


<*=3Z0ZE2OZD==> 


^E D 


B 



Fig. 49. — Different Methods of Joining Electric Wires to 

Obtain Good Electrical Conductivity and a 

Strong Joint. 



ing form, or for operating a simple buzzer circuit from 
one room to another, one cell will be found adequate 
in most cases. 

Joining Wires. — The connections between wires are 
usually made by stripping the ends to be joined of 
insulation, cleaning the copper wire thus exposed, with 
emery cloth, or scraping it with a knife so that the 
oxide or film is removed from the surface, and then 
twisting the two wires together to form any of the 
joints shown at Fig. 49. While these joints are not 
usually soldered, as is advisable when running long 
circuits, it will be found advantageous to solder them, 
as a better electrical contact is obtained and the re- 
sistance of the circuit is materially reduced, which 



How to Do Things Electrical 



125 



means that more of the current produced by the bat- 
tery will flow through the device to be operated. 
After the joint has been made, it is covered with a 
winding of electrical tape, which acts as insulation. 
When joints are made in wires conveying lighting 
current, they are further protected by a layer of rub- 
ber tape before the ordinary frictioned fabric, or elec- 
trical tape is wound around, and then the joints are 



A ToBatHry B . Ttrmina , 
-P 

-X 



Wt\\ 




Ice Box 



B-- &-e 

— m— 0-1 



Fig. 50. — How to Make an Overflow Alarm for the Radiator 
Drip Pan. 



painted with an insulating varnish to insure absolutely 
against leakage of current. 

Overflow Alarm. — The drip pan that is placed 
under the refrigerator often overflows during hot 
weather because the ice melts more rapidly than ex- 
pected and the pan is not emptied when it becomes 
full. The device shown at Fig. 50 is a very simple one 
that may be easily constructed by the home mechanic 
and which will save considerable annoyance. The 
base piece is made of a piece of wood with a notch 
cut in the bottom so it may be attached to the side 
of the pan. The float is made of light wood or cork 
that is attached to one end of a bent wire which is a 
loose fit on a bearing screw so the cork may move 



126 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

up and down. Two binding posts or terminals are 
attached to the wood base, one of these being in 
connection with the wire that carries the float ball, 
the other serving merely as an anchorage for one of 
the circuit wires. The installation of the device is 
clearly shown at Fig. 50, C. When the water rises, the 
float ball will also rise, and when the danger-point 
is reached the bent portion, or short arm of the wire 
to which the float is attached, will come in contact 
with the binding post at the top of the board and es- 
tablish a circuit through the battery and electric bell, 
which will result in an alarm being given that the 
w r ater level has reached its maximum permissible 
height without overflowing. 

The bell will continue to ring until the pan is 
emptied or circuit interrupted. It will be apparent 
that the water level at which the bell will ring may be 
altered as required by bending the contact wire, so 
that it will be in contact with the terminal post only 
at certain positions of the float. Bending the wire 
away from the terminal will increase the water level 
at which the alarm will ring, while bending it closer 
to the terminal will make the alarm bell ring sooner 
and for a smaller travel of the float. 

Simple Annunciator. — In some circuits one electric 
bell is operated from two push buttons, and it is not 
possible to tell which button has operated the bell 
unless an annunciator is used. The annunciator shown 
at Fig. 51 is a very simple appliance that may be 
made by the handy man by using an electric bell 
magnet and armature which is pivoted at the center 
instead of at one end, as is usual in practice. An indi- 
cator or pointer is attached to the armature, and this 
moves to the right or left, depending on which magnet 
of the pair is magnetized. When used in this way, the 
magnet coils are not joined in series, but each is inde- 



Electrical Alarm Clock 



127 



pendent of the other. The circuits are very clearly 
shown, one push button being connected to the bell 
through one of the magnet coils, while the other can 
ring -the bell only through the other magnet coil. The 
indicating arm will swing to one side or the other 
and show clearly which push button has been used 
to ring the bell. 

Electrical Alarm Clock. — A simple method of using 
an ordinary alarm clock to operate an electric bell, 



WoodCntsmq 



Magnzt-- 




Pi voted 
A r ma fare 



!—*$£$' 



A 



To To Push 
Be// Button 3 



To Push But ton A 



$— 



B 



Dry Battery 



Fig. 51. — Construction of a Simple Two- Way Annunciator. 



which will ring until the person it is desired to awaken 
gets up and shuts it off, is shown at Fig. 52, in the 
diagram at A. A metal arm or contact is rested on 
the winding key after the alarm is set. This arm 
should be of sufficient weight so it will establish a 
positive contact with the other arm carried below it 
when the winding key has released it and let it drop. 
The remainder of the wiring is very simple and it is 
just as it would be for an ordinary electric bell circuit 



128 Home Mechanics Workshop 



,-Dry Ce/fo 
{ ) 



,Con tore r Alarm 
(Clock 




BciSZ'''' A "-Belt ^Contact 



. Alarm Clock 




Fig. 52.— Alarm Clock Operated Switch and Simple Bell 

Circuit Gives a Continuous Ringing Alarm at Any 

Desired Time. 

in which the push button will replace the clock oper- 
ated switch. 

A more complete wiring- diagram, which is shown 
at Fig. 52, B, is so arranged that the electric alarm 



Simple Fire Alarms 129 

may be interrupted without leaving the bed and also 
a light may be switched on if desired. The alarm 
clock rests on a suitable shelf which has a contact 
piece that may be used to establish the circuit when 
a metal piece is released by the clock winding key as 
shown at A, Fig. 52. The two point switch and bell 
are installed near the head of the bed. The switch 
is normally in such circuit arrangement that when 
contact is established due to alarm going off, the elec- 
tric bell will ring, but the switch lever may be moved 
over to the other contact button when desired, which 
will turn on a small electric light to illuminate the 
face of the clock, and thus enable the occupant of the 
bed to determine the time whenever he desires. 

Simple Fire Alarms. — A cheap fire alarm arrange- 
ment that will indicate fire at places remote from the 
house, such as in a barn or storage shed, comprises 
the usual bell circuit with some form of switch that 
will automatically make contact either by thermostatic 
means or by melting of a fusible substance or the burn- 
ing away of a combustible one. The switch shown 
at A, Fig. 53, is operated by a weight and is normally 
held out of contact by a string which passes around 
a series of small pulleys ; this string is anchored at one 
end and passes through the various rooms where there 
might be danger of fire. For instance, in a barn the 
string could pass through a haymow, where any flame 
would soon char the string, allowing it to become 
severed and then permitting the weight to drop and 
establish an electrical contact at the switch. The elec- 
tric bell is connected in the usual manner, and is 
placed in the house. 

The automatic switch shown at B, Fig. 53, is easily 
constructed. It is made of a block of wood serving 
as a base, this having two strips of spring brass at- 
tached to it. These springs have contact pieces which 



130 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

will be pressed tightly together when a piece of bees- 
wax inserted between the ends of the brass strips 
melts from excessive heat. As soon as the brass strips 
come together a circuit is established and the bell will 
ring. A number of these automatic circuit closers 
may be made and wired in parallel with one bell, so 
that they may be installed at various points which one 
desires to protect. If wired through an annunciator, 
just as push buttons would be, fire in any of several 
rooms, such as in a storage warehouse, would be im- 



....Wood Base. 




Terminal 



Con fact 
)) i|| Springs 




Battery 



Fig. 53.— Two Forms of Automatic Switches to Use With, 
Bell Circuits and Secure Fire Alarm Advantages. 



mediately indicated at some central point by the an- 
nunciator. 

Simple Terminals. — The suggestions given at Fig. 
54, A, shows how a very satisfactory terminal for con- 
necting the ends of wires to batteries or to any electric 
apparatus having binding posts may be made by 
using ordinary split pins of the proper size. The end 
of the wire is passed through the eye of the cotter 
pin, twisted around itself, and then the pin and wire 
soldered together and covered with a piece of tape. 
A connection of this kind is superior to the use of 
the copper wire, as it is much stronger and the wire 
is apt to be cut or broken by the pressure of the clamp 



Magnetizing Shears 



131 



screw because of its softness. A better connection 
is obtained because the legs of the split pin are nor- 
mally spread apart slightly and will fit the hole in the 
terminal nicely. 

Magnetizing Shears. — A pair of magnetized shears 
or scissors are a very handy thing for a housewife to 
have because it will enable her to pick up a needle or 
steel pin from the floor without difficulty. The method 
of magnetizing is very simple and may be done with 



Coffer Pin 



Wood 



iSolder 




Fig. 54.— How Cotter Pin Can Be Used as a Wire Terminal 

at A. Method of Magnetizing Shears at B. Using 

Partially Consumed Zinc at C. 



a small horseshoe magnet as shown at Fig. 54, B. The 
poles of the magnet are placed in contact with the 
scissors blades near the hinge and are drawn towards 
the end of the blade. A number of strokes of the 
magnet are all that is necessary to magnetize the 
scissors blades. If these are of steel, they will remain 
permanently magnetized. The only precaution to be 
observed is to make sure that the same poles of the 
magnet come in contact with the same blades of the 
scissors at each stroke of the magnet. 

Using Partly Worn Zinc. — A simple way of using a 
battery zinc that has been partly eaten away is shown 



132 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

at Fig. 54, C, and serves in an emergency. It is sus- 
pended by a wire and after a good connection is made 
at the binding post the end of the zinc and wire is 
coated with wax to prevent corrosion, which will 
otherwise occur from the action of the electrolyte if 
it were not prevented by the insulation. After the 
zinc is dropped down into the solution — the proper 
amount — the wire is twisted around a piece of wood, 
which is placed across the insulator as shown, to hold 
it in place. 

Cost of Operating Cooking Devices. — The following 
table compiled by the National Electric Light Associ- 
ation, serves to show how inexpensive the operation of 
domestic heating and cooking devices, which are now 
widely used, really is. It must be understood that the 
cost will vary in different localities according to the 
rate charged for electric current. The rate of ten cents 
per kilowatt-hour was used in computing this table : 

Devices Costs per hour 

Chafing Dishes 2 to 5. 

Cigar Lighters 0.75 

Coffee Percolators 1 to 4.4 

Flatiron (3 lb.) 2.75 

Flatiron (4 lb.) 3.5 

Heating pads 0.5 

Nursery milk warmers 4.5 

Radiators 7 to 60 

Shaving mugs 1.5 

Stoves (4y 2 to 12 inches) 0.5 to 13 

Toasters (9 in. by 12 in.) 3.2 to 8.8 

Toasters (12 in. by 18 in.) 5 to 15 

Waffle irons (2 waffles) 7.5 

Electrically Operated Door Locks. — Two sugges- 
tions for electrically operated door locks are shown 
at Fig. 55. That at A is a very simple form in 
which a long bolt is normally kept in the locked 



Replacing Defective Fuses 133 

position by means of a weight or small spring and 
which is unlocked by pressing a push button, which 
energizes the magnet and which draws the arma- 
ture or locking bolt out of engagement with the 
locking screweye. As soon as the pressure on the 
button is released the long bolt will swing back into 
locking position. The electric lock shown at Fig. 55, B, 
is a much stronger method than that shown at A. In 
this, when the door-locking bolt is pushed into position, 
it is locked by a trigger member dropping into the 
notch in the end of the bolt. When the push button 
is pressed and the circuit completed, the magnet lifts 
the locking trigger, which permits a withdrawing of 
the bolt and unlocking the door. The circuits are 
very simple ones, being practically the same as those 
used in electrical bell work. 

Replacing Defective Fuses. — When the light goes 
out suddenly in the household, experience has demon- 
strated that unless the main power supply has failed, 
that the trouble is undoubtedly due to the blowing of 
a fuse in the main or one of the branch circuits of 
the house wiring system. Unless one is sure of the 
cause of blowing out of the fuse, a new fuse should 
not be placed in the fuse block without some investiga- 
tion to determine the reason why the fuse was blown 
out. The function of the fuse is to act as a safety 
valve that will protect the circuit against overload 
by melting, and thus interrupt the current flow. Any 
short circuit in the wiring system, or in any of the 
appliances connected to it, will cause a fuse to blow 
out, though at times some of these "blow" because 
of depreciation caused by time of the fusible alloy 
wire in the fuseplug. The construction of the usual 
fuseplug is clearly shown at Fig. 56, A. This consists 
of a screw base similar to that used on an incandescent 
lamp, having the outer shell and the central terminal 



134 Home Mechanic s Workshop 




Replacing Defective Fuses 



135 



button joined by a piece of lead alloy wire, which will 
melt from the heat if more than a certain amount of 
current passes over it. 

A fuse often blows out when a vacuum cleaner or an 
electric iron is used after dark, because the lights that 
are operated on a circuit are consuming current al- 
most to the capacity of the fuse and when the electric 
iron or vacuum cleaner is put in circuit the heavy 



Line Wires , 



. Fuse Plugs in Place 



Connection 

Clips -^, 



Panel Box. 



Screw) 
Base 



_ Fuse 
Block 




Fig. 56. — Typical Fuse Plug and Panel Box in Which 
It is Used. 



rate of current flow causes the fuse to blow out. 
Heavier fuses should always be used in lines where 
appliances other than lamps are apt to be used in 
conjunction with them. 

The usual form of fuse block is shown at Fig. 56, B, 
with the fuses in place. The top of the fuse is closed 
in with a piece of mica or isinglass, and when a fuse 
is blown this is usually blackened so that the interior 
cannot be seen, otherwise the fuseplug shell interior 



136 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

can be inspected and the wire binding the two parts 
of the block can be easily seen. The Underwriters' 
rules limit the amount of current carried by any 
branch circuit in household wiring to 660 watts, which 
means that no more than six amperes can be carried 
on a circuit of 110 volts, which is that usually em- 
ployed for lighting purposes. For this reason separate 
fuses are provided for each branch lighting circuit. 

The replacing of a fuse is a simple matter and it is 
only necessary to unscrew the blown or defective fuse- 
plug and screw in a new one in its place. This 
operation is as simple as removing or installing 
an electric lamp in a socket. If it is impossible 
to keep a fuse from "blowing" the trouble is due to 
a short circuit in the wiring, and it should be cor- 
rected by a competent electrician before an attempt 
is made to use the current. Several replacements 
should be available at all times and should be placed 
near the panel box so as to be accessible in the event 
of a fuse blowing out on any of the circuits. The 
ordinary fuse for household use is rated at five am- 
peres, though they may be obtained in varying capac- 
ities, depending upon whether they are used for light- 
ing or power circuits, and also according to the voltage 
of the circuit. 

Simple Attachment Plugs. — It is sometimes neces- 
sary to attach an appliance to a lighting fixture when 
no extension plug is available. Various simple meth- 
ods of doing this are shown at Fig. 57. The emer- 
gency extension plug shown at A is made by using 
a base from an old lamp, the inside of which is cleaned 
out thoroughly and one end of a wire attached to the 
contact button at the center of the porcelain insulator 
at the base, and the other end secured to a terminal 
post taken from the carbon of an old dry battery. The 
other wire is attached to the threaded shell at one 



Simple Attachment Plugs 



137 



end, and to a terminal post at the other. The inside 
of the socket is then filled with plaster of paris, which 
is formed up as indicated, by being poured into a 
mould made by rolling a piece of paper in cylindrical 
form and inserting it in the socket shell before the 
mixture is poured in. This paper mould is also very 
useful in keeping the terminal screws in place until 
the plaster of Paris sets. The plaster of Paris is mixed 




Fig. 57.— A Variety of Attachment Plugs That Can Be Made 
in the Home Workshop. 



with water to form a paste that may be easily poured 
in the shell and mould interiors. 

The attachment plug shown at B is made by drill- 
ing a hole in the center of the fibre casing of a cart- 
ridge fuse, into which a socket bushing is tightly 
screwed. The wires are passed through this and are 
attached to the clips to which the fuse wire would 
ordinarily be attached. The cover is taken off by 
prying around the brass ring, which gives access to 
the interior. The method of using this attachment 
fixture is also clearly outlined, as simple clip fittings 
may be secured to a block and interposed to the cir- 
cuit. One of the wires should be attached to one clip, 



138 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

the other circuit wire to the other clip, so that when 
the plug is put in place it is in parallel with the cir- 
cuit and not in series. 

A fuse plug of the screw type may be used for an 
extension plug by putting a hole in the mica cover 
that allows joining of one wire to the center contact 
at the bottom, and the other wire to the brass shell 
below the knurled part, taking care to solder both wire 
ends securely against the metal parts they are joined 
to. The interior of the fuse plug is then filled with 









Source of Current \f 












$L 








I 


s s 


o^ 






L 


I 




1 























Fig. 58. — Turning On One Lamp From Two Points. 



melted sealing wax or with plaster of Paris, to keep 
the wires from coming in contact with each other and 
also to hold them firmly in place so they will not come 
loose. 

Controlling One Lamp from Two Points. — The 
diagram at Fig. 58 shows how one electric light may 
be turned on and off from two different points. This 
is especially handy when one wishes to control the 
light from the top of the cellar stairs, for example, 
and from the cellar itself. Two point switches are 
used which are wired in the circuit as outlined. With 
this arrangement either switch may be used to con- 
trol the lamp. 



Home-Made Night Lamp 



139 



Home-Made Night Lamp. — A very effective, yet 
simple, night lamp may be constructed by the home 
mechanic by following the suggestions at Fig. 59, A. 
The base piece as well as the upright may be con- 
structed to any desired wood, painted and finished to 
suit the taste of the builder. To prevent the base 
from scratching polished furniture, a piece of felt or 
flannel or any other suitable cloth may be glued to 



Banc/Iron 
'Handle 




Clamp. 



Battery— > 



Fig. 59. — A Home-Made Night Lamp at A and a Simple 
Lantern at B. 



the under side of the base. The small battery may 
be the type used as a recharge for a flash light or 
may be made up of two small dry cells. The lamp is 
the ordinary small bulb such as used in a flash light 
provided with a screw base to fit a miniature socket. 
Ordinary twisted lamp cord is used to make the cir- 
cuit, this running to a pear-shaped push button which 
may be carried to any desired point, or a small one- 
point switch may be placed on the base instead of 
the push button. A simple screw hook serves as a 
hanger for the watch, the face of which is illuminated 
by the small lamp when the switch closes the circuit. 



140 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

The home-made lantern operated from a single dry 
cell of the No. 6 size, which is 2y 2 " in diameter and 
6" long, is shown at Fig. 59, B. A small funnel serves 
as a reflector, the spout of the funnel being removed. 
The funnel is attached to the carbon terminal by 
means of a piece of bent metal soldered to the fun- 
nel at one end and having a hole in the other to fit 
over the carbon terminal screw. The lamp is the 




Fig. 60. — Simple Lamp Cord Adjusters of Wood and Wire. 



type such as used in an automobile side light and is 
attached to the funnel by a sheet metal clip. 

The switch is made by using a piece of spring brass 
which is attached to a fiber strip at one end and so 
shaped as to be brought in contact with the zinc ter- 
minal of the battery at the other. The socket of the 
lamp acts as one terminal by being attached to the 
funnel, while the center contact is connected to the 
fiber piece by a short wire as indicated. A suitable 
clamp and handle is bent up of light sheet metal by 
which the cell may be carried. The method of con- 
struction is clearly shown in the details accompany- 
ing the sketch. 

Drop Light Adjusters. — A simple method of mak- 
ing an angle drop light is shown at Fig. 60, A. An or- 
dinary piece of cord is tied to a hook, which may be 



Drop Light Adjusters 141 

made of any desired piece of wire, such as a paper 
clip or a piece of hairpin. The other end of the cord 
is tied to the lamp cord and, when the hook is looped 
over the shade, the lamp will be tilted to any angle 
desired by varying the length of the string. The 
shade may be inclined so that the light may be di- 
rected to any point desired. 

Two simple drop light adjusters are also shown at 
Fig. 60. That at B is made from a piece of wood 
W thick, 1%" wide and 3" long. A >4" hole is bored 
through about y 2 " from each end. The length of the 
lamp cord may be varied by increasing the size of 
the loop as desired. A J4" h°l e is the proper size to 
use with an ordinary lamp cord, though it is evident 
that the holes may be made to any size to accommo- 
date the diameter of the lamp wires. The adjuster 
shown at Fig. 60, C, consists of a piece of copper or 
iron wire about y%" in diameter bent up as indicated. 
The method of using it is clearly shown in the illus- 
tration. 



CHAPTER V 

HELPFUL RECIPES AND FORMULA 

Cleaning Waste Pipes — A Superior Whitewash — Silvering Metals 
— Writing on Steel — Black Lacquer for Metal or Wood — A 
Good Polish for Brass — Filling for Cracked Ceilings — Filling 
Cracks in Floors — Fastening an Umbrella Handle — To Frost 
Glass — To Brighten Silver Plated Articles — To Remove Rust 
From Steel — Cleaning Marble — Cleaning Paint — Removing 
Hard Wax and Candle Grease From Cloth — To Remove Soft 
Grease Spots From Fabrics — Preparation for Cleaning 
Gloves — Eradicating Ink Stains — Miscellaneous Cements and 
Adhesives — Marine Glue — Glue to Resist Damp — Rubber 
Cement — Cement to Mend Crockery — Cements for Pipe Joints 
— Cement for Iron — Paste for Sticking Paper Labels to 
Glass, Wood or Metals — Adhesive Material — Alum and 
Plaster of Paris Cement — Indestructible Writing Ink — Re- 
moving Ink Stains From Wood — Preserving Leather — Oiled 
Dust Cloth — Detection of Gas Leaks — How to Read a Gas 
Meter — Cleaning Stove Pipes — Varnish for Stove Pipes — 
French Polish Revivers — Paints for Boiler Fronts. 

The handy man is expected to be a compendium 
of useful information, and if he is known to be me- 
chanically inclined he is the adviser, not only in his 
own household, but in those of his friends who do 
not have such ability. He is asked numerous ques- 
tions, some of which concern mechanical processes, 
others which deal with various recipes for doing any- 
thing from removing grease spots to painting a stove 
pipe or boiler front with a paint that will not burn 
off. The collection of recipes and formulae which 
follow have been secured from "Henley's Twentieth 
Century Recipe Book," * for the most part, and are 

* Published by the Norman W. Henley Pub. Co., 2 West 45th 
Street, New York City. Price, $4.00. 

142 



Cleaning Waste Pipes 143 

believed to contain considerable information that will 
be of value to the handy man, because they give sug- 
gestions that can be applied to advantage around the 
home. 

Cleaning Waste Pipes. — One of the frequent an- 
noyances of housekeeping is the obstruction to the 
free, quick outlet of the waste water of the wash- 
stand, the bath-tub and the kitchen sink. This re- 
sults from a gradual accumulation of small bits of 
fatty material, paper, lint, meat, bones or other offal 
which check and finally entirely stop the outflow of 
the waste water. The plumber is called and usually 
removes the stoppage with his force-pump. Some- 
times this is effective; at others the offending waste- 
pipe is cut out and a new one put in its place at con- 
siderable cost. 

A simple, inexpensive method of clearing the pipe 
is as follows : Just before retiring at night pour into 
the pipe enough liquid potash (not soda) lye of 36° 
strength to fill the "trap," as it is called, or bent por- 
tion of the pipe just below the outlet. About a pint 
will suffice for a washstand, or a quart for a bath-tub 
or kitchen sink. Be sure that no water runs into it 
till next morning. During the night the lye will 
change all of the offal in the pipe into soft soap, and 
the first current of water in the morning will remove 
it entirely, and leave the pipe as clean as new. Two 
applications of the lye should be enough to cure any 
case. The so-called potash lye sold in small tin cans 
in the shops is not recommended for this purpose; it 
is quite commonly misnamed, and is called caustic 
soda, which makes a hard soap. That may block up 
the pipe even worse than the material it was desired 
to remove. 

A Superior Whitewash. — For a useful lime wash 
for wood and stone the following method of prepara- 



144 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

tion is given by an expert. Twenty quarts of quick- 
lime are slaked in a suitable vessel with as much hot 
water as will stand at a level of 6 inches' above the 
lime. The milk of lime is diluted, and first 15 grains 
of sulphate of zinc and then 7 grains of common salt 
are added. The latter causes the lime wash to harden 
without cracking. A beautiful cream color can be 
imparted to the mass by putting into it 7 grains of 
yellow ocher, or a pearly tint by addition of some 
lampblack. A fawn color is produced by two grammes 
of umber and 7 grains of lampblack. A stone color 
can be obtained from 30 grains of umber and 7 grains 
of lampblack. The color is applied, as usual, with a 
large, flat brush. 

Silvering Metals. — Small articles may easily be 
coated with silver by dipping them first into a so- 
lution of common salt and rubbing with a mixture 
of one part of precipitated chloride of silver, two 
parts of potassa alum, eight parts of common salt, and 
the same quantity of cream of tartar. The article is 
then washed and dried with a soft rag. 

Writing on Steel. — Steel can be written on or en- 
graved for marking tools by first cleaning it with oil 
and then spreading a coating of melted beeswax upon 
it. The writing can then be done on the beeswax, 
with any sharp instrument, and the lines and marks 
thus made should be painted with a fine brush dipped 
in a liquid made of one ounce of nitric acid and one- 
sixth of an ounce of muriatic acid. When the written 
lines are rilled with this liquid, it should be allowed 
to remain five minutes, and then the article should 
be dipped in water and wax removed and steel cleaned. 

Black Lacquer for Metal or Wood. — Nine parts of 
shellac are dissolved in fifty parts of methylic alcohol 
and set aside for a few days. Then ten parts of pul- 
verized asphaltum are dissolved in fifty parts of coal 



Helpful Recipes and Formulas 145 

tar benzine. Both liquids being mixed, a sufficient 
quantity of lampblack is added to give it the required 
density. When necessary, it may be diluted with a 
mixture of alcohol and benzine. 

A Good Polish for Brass. — For polishing bright 
brass work rub the surface of the metal with rotten- 
stone and sweet oil, and then rub off with a piece of 
cotton flannel and polish with soft leather. A solu- 
tion of oxalic acid rubbed over tarnished brass soon 
removes the tarnish, rendering the metal bright. The 
acid must be washed off with water, and the brass 
rubbed with whiting and soft leather. A mixture of 
muriatic acid and alum dissolved in water imparts a 
golden color to brass articles that are steeped in it 
for a few seconds. 

Filling for Cracked Ceilings. — Whiting mixed with 
glue water or calcined plaster and water makes a good 
putty for filling cracks in plastered ceilings or walls. 
The filling material is in the form of a paste and is 
worked into the crack with a putty knife. 

Filling Cracks in Floors. — Cracks in floors can be 
neatly and permanently filled with a paste made by 
soaking newspapers, l / 2 lb. of flour, 3 qts. of water 
and y 2 lb. of alum thoroughly mixed and boiled. The 
mixture acquires the consistency of putty, and when 
forced into the cracks of the floor it will harden similar 
to papier-mache and will resist wear as well as wood 
and prevent dirt getting into the cracks. 

Fastening an Umbrella Handle. — Sometimes a per- 
son would like to change a good umbrella handle 
from a discarded one to another umbrella and fasten 
it on solidly. This is done by cleaning out the hole 
left in the handle from the old rod and then filling 
the hole with flour of sulphur. Place the handle 
firmly in an upright position. The umbrella rod is 
heated red hot and pushed down into the hole con- 



146 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

taining the sulphur. The heat fuses the sulphur and 
when cold it will hold the rod solidly. This method 
may be applied to fastening rods into stone, iron or 
wood, and also for holding knives and forks into bone 
or other similar handles. 

To Frost Glass. — The following process can be used 
for lights of glass already set in the sash. Dissolve 
1 part of wax in 10 parts of oil of turpentine and add 
1 part each of varnish and siccative. With this mix- 
ture the panes are coated on the outside, and before 
drying dabbed with a pad of cotton wadding. If de- 
sired, small quantities of Paris blue, madder lake, etc., 
may be mixed with the wax solution, which will make 
the frosting a corresponding color. This is a good 
method of frosting lamp bulbs. 

To Brighten Silver-Plated Articles. — Articles of sil- 
ver and silver-plated ware rapidly tarnish when kept 
in rooms where gas is used for illuminating purposes, 
and anywhere in manufacturing cities, where the air 
is constantly filled with sulphurous vapor. This may 
be avoided by dipping the articles occasionally in a 
solution of hyposulphite of soda. Large articles, like 
pitchers and salvers, should be wiped off with a rag 
dipped in the solution, and dried with a soft towel. 
A rub with a bit of chamois leather makes them as 
brilliant as new. 

To Remove Rust from Steel. — Place the article in 
a bowl containing kerosene oil, or wrap the steel up 
in a soft cloth well saturated with kerosene ; let it 
remain 24 hours or longer; then scour the rusty spots 
with brickdust. If badly rusted, use salt wet with 
hot vinegar; after scouring, rinse every particle of 
brickdust or salt off with boiling hot water ; dry thor- 
oughly; then polish off with a clean flannel cloth and 
a little sweet oil or "3 in 1" oil. 



Cleaning Paint 147 

Cleaning Marble. — A paste formed of whiting and 
benzine will cleanse marble from grease, and one 
made of whiting and chloride of soda, spread and left 
to dry, in the sun if possible, on the marble will re- 
move stains. 

Cleaning Paint. — (1) To clean paint, take 1 oz. pow- 
dered borax, 1 lb. small pieces best yellow laundry 
soap, and 3 quarts water; simmer till the soap is dis- 
solved, stirring frequently, and take care not to have 
the mixture come to a boil. Use with a piece of old 
flannel, and rinse off as soon as the paint is clean. 
This mixture is good for washing clothes. 

(2) Take a pail of hot water; throw in two table- 
spoonfuls of powdered borax; use a good coarse 
towel and wash the painting; do not use a brush; 
when washing places that are extra yellow and stained, 
soap the cloth; then sprinkle it with the dry pow- 
dered borax, and rub the places well, using plenty of 
rinsing water. In washing the woodwork in this way, 
the paint will not be injured and the borax will soften 
and make the hands white — a fact well worth know- 
ing. 

Removing Hard Wax and Candle Grease from 
Cloth. — Rub and scrape off as much of the wax as 
possible; hold a hot poker or a burning match as 
near the cloth or fabric as possible, without igniting 
it, and the wax will melt and sink into the fabric and 
disappear. This does not really remove it. A far 
better way is to place a piece of good blotting paper 
over the stain and press it with a hot iron, shifting 
the blotting paper two or three times if the spot is 
large. The wax melts and a large proportion is ab- 
sorbed by the blotting paper. 

To Remove Soft Grease Spots from Fabrics. — 
Sponging with benzine, ether, or chloroform is gen- 
erally recommended, and, as usually effected, ends in 



148 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

the production of a ring-shaped stain. To avoid this 
proceed as follows : Moisten the cloth all around the 
stain with the benzine or other solvent, making a com- 
plete ring, and giving it all the liquid it will take up. 
Now work inwards towards the stain, and eventually 
sponge it off, and if desired apply dry blotting paper 
to remove the surplus. A sponge should be used, as 
it acts in a double capacity, applying the solvent when 
squeezed and reabsorbing it and the grease with it 
when relaxed. An excellent way of applying the ring 
of liquid is to use a piece of blotting paper, circular, 
and perforated with a hole slightly larger than the 
spot of grease. This is laid upon the cloth and the 
solvent is poured upon it. 

Preparations for Cleaning Gloves. — Six parts of 
soap are dissolved in 2 parts of water; 4 parts of 
Javelle water and J4 P art °f aqua ammonia are added. 
The glove is sponged off with this liquid. As a simpler 
application, the gloves while on the hand may be 
rubbed with bread crumbs or India rubber sponge 
eraser as used by draftsmen for cleaning drawings. 

Eradicating Ink Stains. — Pyrophosphate of soda 
is recommended for the removal of ink stains. This 
salt does not injure vegetable fiber and yields color- 
less compounds with the ferric oxide of the ink. It 
is best to first apply tallow to the ink spot, then wash 
in a solution of pyrophosphate until both tallow and 
ink have disappeared. 

Miscellaneous Cements and Adhesives, Marine 
Glue. — (1) Caoutchouc, 1 oz. ; genuine asphaltum, 2 
oz. ; benzole or naphtha, q. s. The caoutchouc is dis- 
solved by digestion and occasional agitation, and the 
asphaltum is gradually added. The solution should 
have about the consistency of molasses. 

(2) Dissolve 1 part of India rubber in 12 parts of 
benzole, and to the solution add 20 parts of powdered 



Helpful Recipes and Formula? 149 

shellac, heating the mixture cautiously over a fire. 
Apply with a brush. 

Rubber Cement. — Digest caoutchouc, cut in fine 
shreds, with about 4 volumes of naphtha in a well- 
covered vessel for several days. Naphtha should not 
be used indoors. Keep the cement in a tightly corked 
bottle to avoid evaporation of the volatile solvent. 

Glue to Resist Damp. — A glue to resist damp can 
be prepared with boiled linseed oil and ordinary glue; 
or by melting 1 lb. of glue in 2 qts. of skimmed milk 
and adding shellac, 4 ounces; borax, 1 ounce, boiled 
in a little water, and concentrated by heat to form a 
paste. 

Cement to Mend Crockery. — One of the strongest 
cements, and easily applied for this purpose, is lime 
and the white of an egg. To use it, take a sufficient 
quantity of the egg to mend one article at a time, 
shave off a quantity of lime, and mix thoroughly. 
Apply quickly to the edges and place firmly together, 
when it will very soon become set and strong. Mix 
but a small quantity at once, as it hardens very soon 
so that it cannot be used. Calcined plaster of Paris 
would answer the same purpose as lime. 

Cements for Pipe Joints. — The following are ce- 
ments for steam and water joints: (1) Ground lith- 
arge, 10 pounds ; plaster of Paris, 4 pounds ; yellow 
ocher, one-half pound; red lead, 2 pounds; hemp, cut 
into one-half inch lengths, one-half ounce ; mixed with 
boiled linseed oil to the consistency of putty. 

(2) White lead, 10 parts; black oxide of manganese, 
3 ; litharge, 1 ; mixed boiled linseed oil. 

A cement for joints to resist great heat is made 
thus: Asbestos powder, made into a thick paste, with 
liquid silicate of soda. 

Cement for Iron. — The following cement is recom- 
mended for repairing damaged places in iron castings : 



150 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

5 parts brimstone, 2 parts black lead, and 2 parts cast- 
iron filings (previously sifted) are melted together, 
taking care that the brimstone does not catch fire. 
The damaged place should be perfectly dry, and well 
heated by laying a piece of red-hot iron upon it, and 
is then stopped with the cement, previously heated in 
a melting-ladle till it becomes soft. 

Paste for Sticking Paper Labels to Glass, Wood, 
and Metals. — The mixture is composed of starch, 2 
dr. ; white sugar, 1 oz. ; gum arabic, 2 dr. ; water as 
required. Dissolve the gum, add the sugar, and boil 
until the starch is cooked. 

Adhesive Material. — This is made of water, 1 oz. ; 
methylated spirit, 2 oz. ; dextrine, 2 tablespoonfuls. 
Mix the water and spirit; stir in the dextrine to pro- 
duce a smooth paste, and place the vessel in which 
the ingredients have been mixed in hot water till a 
clear brown solution results. 

Alum and Plaster of Paris Cement. — Alum and plas- 
ter of Paris, mixed with water and used in liquid 
state, form a hard composition and a useful cement 
for filling cracks in plaster, china, etc. 

Indestructible Writing Ink. — It is said that an ink 
that cannot be erased even with acids is obtained by 
following this receipt: A strong solution of fine solu- 
ble Prussian blue in distilled water is added to good 
gall ink. This addition makes the ink, which was 
previously proof against alkalies, equally proof against 
acids, and forms a writing fluid which cannot be erased 
without destruction of the paper. The ink writes 
greenish blue, but afterward turns black. 

Removing Ink Stains from Wood. — Mix 8 ounces 
concentrated sulphuric acid and 1^4 pints of water 
carefully, and allow it to stand until cool, taking care 
to pour the acid slowly into the water, stirring mean- 
while. Scour the stain with water and sand thor- 



Preserving Leather 151 

oughly, and then pour some of the mixture upon it 
and rub until the stain has disappeared. 

Preserving Leather. — (1) Equal parts of mutton fat 
and linseed oil mixed with 1/10 their weight of Venice 
turpentine, and melted together in an earthen pipkin, 
will produce a "dubbin" which is very efficacious in 
preserving leather when exposed to wet or snow, etc. 
It should be applied when the leather is quite dry and 
warm. (2) Many other formulae exist for dubbins, 
but all contain essentially the same ingredients. (3) 
A solution of 1 oz. solid paraffin in 1 pint light naph- 
tha, to which 6 drops sweet oil have been added, is 
put cold on the soles, until they will absorb no more. 
One dressing will do for the uppers. This process 
vastly increases the tensile strength of every stitch ; 
and, while not removing the natural moisture of the 
leather, decidedly waterproofs the boot. The sole 
lasts two months longer when so treated. (4) There 
is nothing like castor-oil for preserving leather. Ap- 
plied once a month, or once or twice a week in snowy 
weather, it not only keeps the leather soft, but makes 
it waterproof. Copal varnish is the best thing to ap- 
ply to the soles, but the latter should be thoroughly 
dry and, if they have been worn, they should be pre- 
viously roughed on the surface before applying the 
varnish. ^ 

Oiled Dust Cloth. — Saturate a suitable piece of 
cloth with kerosene, and lay it aside until the surplus 
oil has evaporated. Rub it on a wooden surface until 
it no longer leaves a streak, and it is ready for use. 
This cloth should be well shaken after each use, and 
re-oiled about once a month. Another method is to 
mix 30 parts of kerosene with 10 parts of double re- 
fined rapeseed oil, heat moderately and stir into it 1 
part of melted benzine. Immerse the cloths in this 
liquid until they become entirely saturated with it; 



152 Home Mechanic s Workshop 

wring out well, and dry in a shady place. The cloths 
do not injure even polished furniture, but rather en- 
hance the brilliancy. 

Detector of Gas Leaks. — By far the best test is to 
rub a little soapy water upon the suspected place. 
The formation of a bubble will show where the leak 
is. Never look for a gas leak with a naked flame, and 



CUBIC 



V^iijL^ 




FEET 



,-CHOUs- 



3fc ^r^> <^tt% 




Fig. 61.— Dials of Typical Gas Meter Showing Method of 
Reading as Described in Text. 



just as soon as a leak is detected open the windows 
of the room to insure adequate ventilation until the 
leak is found. 

How to Read a Meter. — The dial marked "1 thou- 
sand" in the accompanying illustration, Fig. 61, is di- 
vided into hundreds ; the dial marked "10 thousand" 
is divided into thousands; that -marked "100 thou- 
sand" into ten-thousands, and that marked "1 million" 
into hundred-thousandths. When 1,000 cu. ft. of gas 
have been consumed the pointer on the dial marked 



How to Read a Meter 153 

1 thousand will have made a complete rotation, and 
the fact will be indicated by the pointer of the next 
dial at the left, which will point to the figure 1. When 
10,000 cu. ft. of gas have been consumed the pointer 
on the "10 thousand" dial will point to 1 and so on. 
In reading a gas meter, put down the hundreds first, 
then the thousands, and so on, always counting the 
figure just under or which has just been passed by 
the pointer. In the illustration about half a hundred 
is indicated on the "1 thousand" dial, three thousand 
is indicated on the next dial, and one hundred thou- 
sand on the "1 million" dial. The reading will be 
123,050. The dial marked "ten feet" is called the units 
dial. It is used for testing the meter to discover 
whether it is in working order or not. Each mark 
represents a cubic foot and the complete circle 10 cubic 
feet. If the pointer moves when no gas is burning, it 
indicates a leak. If it does not move when the gas is 
burning, or if its motion is unsteady, it indicates a 
derangement in the mechanism and shows that the 
meter requires attention. 

Stove Pipes. — The fumes from a piece of zinc put 
on the live coals in the stove will clean out the stove 
pipe. A stove pipe may be protected by using a var- 
nish composed of asphaltum, 2 lbs. ; boiled linseed oil, 
1 pt. ; oil of turpentine, 2 qts. ; melt the asphaltum in 
an iron pot, boil the linseed oil and add to the as- 
phaltum while hot. Stir well and remove from the 
fire. When partially cooled, add the oil of turpentine. 

French Polish Reviver. — Linseed oil, J / 2 pt. ; spirits 
of camphor, 1 oz. ; vinegar, 2 oz. ; butter of antimony, 
y 2 oz. ; spirit of hartshorn, ^4 oz - Mix together and 
apply with a cloth. Another mixture recommended 
is naphtha, 1 lb. ; shellac, 4 oz. ; oxalic acid, Y$ oz. 
Still another is made as follows: y 2 gill of vinegar, 
1 gill spirits of wine, 1 dr. linseed oil. Let stand till 



154 Home Mechanic's Workshop 

dissolved, then add 3 oz. linseed oil. Apply with a 
piece of cheese cloth and rub to a polish. 

Paint for Boilers. — Use asphaltum varnish to paint 
the metal work. There is little or no odor from it 
when dry. Another mixture is made of coal tar and 
ground graphite thinned with turpentine, which forms 
an excellent paint for boiler fronts and pipes in the 
boiler room. The steam pipes for heating should not 
be painted or, if required, should only have a very 
thin coat of lampblack and linseed oil. Rub the boiler 
front over with a mixture of boiled oil and lampblack. 
The grease should be taken from the latter before 
mixing by placing it in a flower pot, the top and bot- 
tom sealed with clay, and subjected to a good heat. 

White Paint for Metallic Surfaces. — Oil paints used 
on metallic surfaces such as radiators, register facings, 
etc., exposed to heat frequently turn yellow. If in- 
stead of oil, sodium silicate be used, no change of 
color will be noticed. Zinc white mixed with soluble 
glass of from 40° to 50° B., to the consistency of or- 
dinary paint, makes an excellent paint for metal. 



INDEX 



A PAGE 

Accessories for Workbench 26 

Acid Cup, Non-Spilling... 48 

Adhesive Material 150 

Adhesives, Marine Glue.. 148 

Adjusters, Drop Light 140 

Alarm Clock, Electrical... 127 

Alarm, Overflow 125 

Alarms, Fire 129 

Alum and Plaster of Paris 

Cement 150 

Angles, Laying out with 

two-foot rule 44 

Annunciator, Simple 126 

Appliances for Kitchen, 

Useful 78 

Attachment Plugs, Simple 136 

Automatic Draft Opening. 73 

B 

Batteries, Dry Cell 118 

Batteries, Simple 116 

Bell Construction, Electric. 120 

Bell Installation, Domestic 123 

Bell, Single Stroke 121 

Bell, Vibrating 121 

Bell Wiring Diagrams.... 122 

Bench Furniture, Simple.. 19 
Bill of Materials, Magazine 

Rack 105 

Bill of Materials, Tool 

Cabinet 110 

Bill of Materials, Work- 
bench 14 

Bits, Wood-Boring, Repair- 
ing 59 

Black Lacquer for Metal 

or Wood 144 

Blow Torch, Homemade.. 48 

Boiler, Paint for 154 

Bolt, Expanding 57 

Bolt for Door, Double 70 

Bracket, Metal Scaffold... 69 



PAGE 

Brass Polish 145 

Brightening Silver Articles 146 
Broom, Cleaning Dirt out 

of Corners 93 

Broom, Combined with Ice- 
pick 93 

Broom Hanger, Simple 75 

Brush, Cleaning Dirt out 

of Corners 93 

Brush, Extension Handle 

for 64 

Brush Handle Hook 63 

Brush Handle, Keeping 

Clean 63 

c 

Cabinet for Wood-working 

Tools 108 

Cabinet Scraper Handle. . . 52 

Candle Lamp, Cheap 102 

Carrier, Package, for Bicy- 
cles 85 

Cement for Iron 150 

Cement for Pipe Joints.. 149 

Cement, Rubber 149 

Cement to Mend Crockery 149 

Cements and Adhesives.. 148 

Circuits, Bell Wiring 122 

Clamps for Workbench... 21 
Cleaning Dirt out of Cor- 
ners 93 

Cleaning Gloves 148 

Cleaning Marble 147 

Cleaning Paint 147 

Cleaning Stove Pipes 153 

Cleaning Waste Pipes 143 

Clipping Trees 103 

Clock, Electrical Alarm.. 127 
Closet for Kettles and 

Pans 99 

Closet Hanger for Trou- 
sers 99 

155 



156 



Index 



PAGE 

Closet, Linen, Improving.. 97 
Clothes Hanger, Indoors.. 97 
Combined Broom and Ice- 
pick 93 

Compass, Substitute for.. 49 
Controlling One Lamp 

from Two Points 138 

Cooking Devices, Cost of 

Operating 132 

Cord Cutter, Efficient 91 

Corners, Metal, from Tub- 
ing 88 

Cost of Operating Cook- 
ing Devices 132 

Cracked Ceilings, Filling 

for 145 

Crockery, Cement to Mend 149 

Curtain Pole, Installing... 100 

Cutting Sheet Metal 49 

D 

Defective Fuses, Replacing 133 

Detector of Gas Leaks 152 

Domestic Call Bell Instal- 
lation 123 

Door Locks, Electrically 

Operated 132 

Door Opener for Furnace. 72 

Door, Sagging 90 

Door Spring, Easily Made. 75 

Door Stop, Economical 76 

Door Stop for Furnace 72 

Double Bolt for Door.... 70 
Doubling Capacity of 

Spring Balance 104 

Draft Opening, Automatic 73 

Drain Pan, Locating 91 

Drawer Details, Work- 
bench 18 

Drill Gauge, Use of 57 

Drop Light Adjusters 140 

Dry Cell Batteries 118 

Dust Cloth, Oiled 151 

E 

Easy Rest for Feet 68 

Economical Door Stop. ... 76 
Electric Bell and Annunci- 
ator Wiring 112 

Electric Bell Construction 120 

Electric Flatiron for Stove 100 



PAGE 

Electric Wires and W'iring 114 
Electrical Alarm Clock... 127 
Electrical Fire Alarms '. . . 129 
Electrically Operated Door 

Locks 132 

Emergency Wrench for 

Pipe 55 

Emptying Square Oil Can. 104 
Equipment of Home Work- 
shop 9 

Expanding Bolt, Home- 
made 57 

Extension Handle for 
Brush 64 

F 

Fastening Umbrella Han- 
dle 145 

Filling Cracks in Floors. 145 
Filling for Cracked Ceil- 
ings 145 

Filter, Efficient 80 

Fire Alarms, Simple 129 

Floor Boards, Preventing 

Creaking 90 

Foot Pad for Ladders.... 66 
French Polish Reviver... 153 

Frosting Glass 146 

Furnace Door Opener 72 

Furnace Door Stop 72 

Furniture, Simple Bench.. 19 
Fuses, Defective, Replac- 
ing 135 

G 

Gas Leaks, Detector for.. 152 

Gas Meter, How to Read. 152 

Gauge, Marking 52 

Gauge, Sawing 58 

Glass Holder, Drinking,.. 79 

Glass, To Frost 146 

Gloves, Cleaning 148 

Glue to Resist Damp 149 

Grease Spots, Removing.. 147 



H 

Hacksaw, Thumb Rest for 51 
Hacksaw, Wooden Frame. 51 
Hammer Handle, Repair- 
ing 54 



Index 



157 



PAGE 

Hammer Handles, Wedg- 
ing 53 

Hammer, Soft-faced 53 

Hammers, Stunts with 52 

Hand Trucks, Useful 84 

Handle for Cabinet Scra- 
per 52 

Handle Hook» for Brush.. 63 

Hanger for Broom 75 

Hanger for Clothes, In- 
doors 97 

Hanger, Skirt or Pants.. 75 
Hanger, : Trousers, for 

Closet 99 

Hanging Pictures, Pole for 88 
Hardware for Home 

Workshop 43 

Heater for Soldering Iron 46 

Holder for Milk Bottle... 79 

Holding Small Screws 55 

Home-made Blow Torch.. 48 
Home - made Expanding 

Bolt 57 

Home-made Night Lamp. 139 

Home Water Works ...... 80 

Home Workshop Equip- 
ment 9 

Home Workshop Location 10 

Home Workshop Supplies. 42 

Hose Packing Washers... 82 

Hose Reel, Home-made... 83 

Hose Repair, Garden 82 

How to Read Gas Meter. 152 



Icepick, Combined with 
Broom 93 

Improving Linen Closet.. 97 
Indestructible Writing Ink 150 
Indoor Hanger for Clothes 97 
Ink Stains, Eradicating. . . 148 
Ink Stains, Removing from 

Wood 150 

Iron Cement 149 

Ironing Board Support... 94 
Installing Curtain Pole. . . . 100 
Insulating Plier Handles.. 57 



Joining Wires 124 



xr 

■**■ PAGE 

Keeping Brush Handle 

Clean 63 

Kettle Handle Support... 78 

Kettles and Pans, Storing. 99 

L 

Ladder Extension, Practi- 
cal 68 

Ladder, Keeping from Slip- 
ping 66 

Ladder Step, Intermediate. 69 

Lamp for Candles, Cheap. 102 

Lamp Guards and Shades. . 27 

Lamp, Night 139 

Lamps for Fine Soldering 46 

Leaky Faucet, Repairing. . 82 

Leather Preservatives 151 

Lighting the Workbench.. 27 

Linen Closet, Improving. . 97 
Lock, One for Three 

Drawers 69 

Locking Means, Secure .- . 71 

M 

Magazine Rack, Simple.*.. 105 

Magnetizing Shears 131 

Marble, Cleaning 147 

Marine Glue 148 

Marking Gauge, Inexpen- 
sive 52 

Metal Corners from Tub- 
ing 88 

Metal Scaffold Bracket. ... 69 

Metal-Working Tools 35 

Metallic Surfaces, White 

Paints for ". 154 

Meter, How to Read 152 

Milk Bottle Holder 79 

N 

Nail Set, Stowing Away. . 59 

Night Lamp, Home-made. 139 

Non-spilling Acid Cup.... 48 

O 

Oil Can, Emptying 104 

Oiled Dust Cloth 151 

One Lock for Three 

Drawers 69 

Overflow Alarm 125 



158 



Index 



P PAGE 

Package Carrier for Bicy- 
cles 85 

Paint Brush Wiper, Simple 63 

Paint, Cleaning 147 

Paint for Boilers 154 

Paint, White, for Metallic 

Surfaces 154 

Pan Cover, Easily Made.. 78 

Paste for Labels 150 

Picture Frame Hanging, 

Pole for 88 

Pipe Cutting Wrench 61 

Pipe Joints, Cement for... 149 

Pipe Wrench, Simple 61 

Plier Handles, Insulating. . 57 
Plugs, Attachment, Simple. 136 
Pole for Hanging Pictures 88 

Polish for Brass 145 

Polish Reviver, French 153 

Polishing Stand for Shoes. 96 

Preserving Leather 151 

Pressing Board for Sleeves 94 
Preventing Waste Water 

Splash 91 

Push Button Construction. 113 



R 

Rack for Nails, etc 24 

Racks for Tools 22 

Raising Sagging Door 90 

Range Boiler Repair 102 

Reel for Hose, Home- 
made 83 

Removing Grease Spots 

from Fabrics 147 

Removing Ink Stains 148 

Removing Ink Stains from 

Wood 150 

Removing Rust from Steel 146 

Removing Stud Bolts 58 

Removing Wax from Cloth 147 
Repairing Cracked Ham- 
mer Handle 54 

Repairing Garden Hose... 82 

Repairing Leaky Faucet.. 82 

Repairing Range Boiler... 102 
Repairing Wood Boring 

Bits 59 

Replacing Defective Fuses 133 

Rotating Tool Rack 22 

Rubber Cement 149 

Rust, Removing from Steel 146 



S PAGE 

Sagging Door, Raising ... 90 
Sal-Ammoniac Battery, 

Care of 117 

Saw Clamp, Simple 58 

Sawhorse and Tool Carrier 29 
Sawing Gauge, Extempor- 
ized 58 

Screw Inserting Tool 60 

Screws, Jaws for Holding 55 

Secure Locking Means 71. 

Selection of Shop Space.. 10 
Sharpening Skates, Kink 

for 55 

Shears, Magnetizing 131 

Sheet Metal, Cutting 49 

Shoe Polishing Stand, 

Simple 96 

Shop Space Selection 10 

Silvering Metals 144 

Simple Annunciator 126 

Simple Batteries 117 

Simple Bench Furniture.. 19 

Simple Magazine Rack 105 

Simple Pipe Wrench 61 

Simple Saw Clamp 58 

Simple Terminals 130 

Single Stroke Bell 121 

•Skates, Kink for Sharpen- 
ing 55 

Skirt or Pants Hanger. ... 75 

Sleeve Pressing Board 94 

Soft-faced Hammer 53 

Soldering Iron Heater 46 

Soldering Iron, Keeping 

from Bench 60 

Soldering Iron Kinks .... 60 
Soldering Iron, Special 

Flat 60 

Soldering, Lamps for Fine 46 
Soot, Keeping in Stove 

Pipe 103 

Spirit Lamps 46 

Spoon, Keeping out of 

Kettle 80 

Spring Balance, Doubling 

Capacity of 104 

Spring for Door, Easily 

Made 75 

Spring Tool Holder 22 

Staples for Wiring 116 

Stop for Door, Econom- 
ical 76 

Stop for Furnace Door... 72 



Index 



159 



PAGE 

Stove Pipes, Cleaning 153 

Stowing Away Nail Set... 54 

Stud Bolts, Removing 58 

Stunts with Hammers 52 

Suggestions for Home 

Painter 62 

Supplies for Home Work- 
shop 42 

Support for Ironing Board 94 



T 

Terminals, Simple 130 

Thumb Rest for Hacksaw. 51 
Tool Cabinet, Working 

Drawings for 109 

Tool Carrier and Sawhorse 29 
Tool Chest and Equipment 30 

Tool Holder, Spring 22 

Tool Rack, Rotating 22 

Tool, Screw Inserting 60 

Tools and Equipment for 

Shop 25 

Tools, Metal Working ... 35 

Tools, Woodworking 30 

Tools, Woodworking, Cab- 
inet for 108 

Turning Pipe, Emergency 
Wrench 55 



U 

Umbrella Handle, Fasten- 
ing 145 

Useful Hand Trucks 84 

Useful Kitchen Appliances 78 
Using Partially Worn Zinc 131 



Vibrating Bell 121 



w 

YV PACK 

Waste Pipes, Cleaning. . . . 143 
Waste Water, Preventing 

Splash 91 

Water Filter, Easily Made 80 
Wax, Removing from 

Cloth 147 

Wedging Hammer Handles 53 
White Paint for Metallic 

Surfaces 154 

Whitewash, a Superior . . . 143 

Wiper, Paint Brush 63 

Wires and Wiring, Electric 114 

Wires, Joining 124 

Wiring Diagrams, Bell . . . 122 

Wiring Dry Cells 119 

Wiring, Staples for 116 

Wood Boring Bits, Repair- 
ing 59 

Wood Screws, Making 

Tight 90 

Wooden Hacksaw Frame. 51 

Woodworking Tools 30 

Woodworking Tools, Cab- 
inet for 108 

Workbench Accessories . . 26 
Workbench, Bill of Ma- 
terial 14 

Workbench Construction . 13 
Workbench, Details of 

Drawer 18 

Workbench Lighting 27 

Workbench, Working 

Drawings 12 

Working Drawings for 

Magazine Rack 106 

Working Drawings, Tool 

Cabinet 109 

Working Drawings, Work- 
bench 12 

Wrench for Pipe Cutting. 61 
Writing Ink, Indestructible 150 
Writing on Steel 144 



1920 

REVISED 

CATALOGUE 

of LATEST and BEST 

Practical 
and Mechanical Books 

Including Automobile and Aviation Books 




PRACTICAL BOOKS FOR PRACTICAL MEN 



Any of these books will be sent prepaid 
to any part of the world, on receipt of 
price. Remit by Draft, Postal Order, 
Express Order or Registered Letter. 



Published and For Sale by 

1 he JN orman W . Henley .Publishing Co. 

2 West 45th Street IN ew York, U. S. A. 



INDEX TO SUBJECTS 



Accidents 27 

Air Brake 25, 26 

Arithmetic 15, 29, 38 

Automobiles ....3, 4, 5, 6, 7 
Automobile Charts .... 7 

Aviation 8 

Batteries 18 

Bevel Gears 22 

Brazing and Soldering. 9 

Cams 22 

Charts 7, 8, 9 

Chemistry 21 

Civil Engineering 29 

Coke 10 

Compressed Air 10 

Concrete 10, 11, 12, 13 

Cosmetics 34 

Dictionaries 14 

Dies— Metal Work ..13, 14 
D r a w i n g — Sketching 

Paper 14, 15 

Electric Bells 16 

Electricity.. 15, 16* 17, 18,19 

Encyclopedia 29 

Factory Management, 

etc _ 19 

Ford Automobile 6 

Fuel 20 

Flying Machines 8 

Gas Engines and Gas, 

20, 21, 22 

Gearing and Cams .... 22 

Hydraulics 22 

Ice and Refrigeration.. 22 

Inventions — Patents ... 23 

Knots 23 

Lathe Work 23, 24 

Link Motion 25 

Liquid Air 24 



Locomotive Engineering, 

24, 25, 26, 27 
Machine Shop Practice, 

27, 29, 30, 31 

Manual Training 32 

Marine Engineering ... 32 
Mechanical Magazine . . 28 
Mechanical Movements. 30 

Metal Turning 23 

Metal Work Dies 13, 14 

Mining 33 

Motors Cycles 6, 7 

Patents and Inventions. 23 

Pattern Making 33 

Perfumery 34 

Plumbing 34 

Receipt Book 35, 40 

Refrigeration and Ice.. 22 
Repairing Automobiles.. 6 

Rubber 36 

Saws 36 

Screw Cutting 36 

Sheet Metal Work ...13, 14 

Smoke Prevention 20 

Soldering 9 

Starting Systems 5 

Steam Engineering. 36, 37, 38 
Stea~i Heating and Ven- 
tilation 38 

Steel 38, 39 

Storage Batteries 18 

Switch Boards 17, 19 

Tractor 22, 39 

Turbines 39 

Ventilation 38 

Waterproofing ........ 13 

Welding 5 

Wiring 17, 18 

Wireless Telephones .. 19 



tS^Any of these books will be sent prepaid to any 
part of the world, on receipt of price. 

REMIT by Draft, Postal Money Order, Express Money 
Order, or by Registered Mail. 

2 



GOOD, USEFUL BOOKS 



AUTOMOBILES— MOTORCYCLES 



The Modern Gasoline Automobile, Its Design, 
Construction, Operation. 

By Victor W. Pag£, M.S.A.E. This is the most complete, 
practical, and up-to-date treatise on gasoline automobiles and 
their component parts ever published. In the new revised 
and enlarged 1920 edition, all phases of automobile construc- 
tion^ operation and maintenance are fully and completely- 
described and in language anyone can understand. Every 
part of all types of automobiles, from light cyclecars to 
heavy motor trucks and tractors, are described in a thorough 
manner; not only the automobile, but every item of its 
equipment, accessories, tools needed, supplies and spare parts 
necessary for its upkeep, are fully discussed. It is clearly 
and concisely written by an expert familiar with every 
branch of the automobile industry and the originator of the 
practical system of self-education on technical subjects; it 
is a liberal education in the automobile art, useful to all who 
motor for either business or pleasure. Anyone reading the 
incomparable treatise is in touch with all improvements that 
have been made in motor car construction. All latest de- 
velopments, such as high speed aluminum motors and mul- 
tiple valve and sleeve valve engines, are considered in 
detail. The latest ignition, carburetor and lubrication prac- 
tice is outlined. New forms of change speed gears, and 
final power transmission systems, and all latest chassis im- 
provements, are shown and described. This book is used 
as a text in all leading automobile schools, and is conceded 
to be the standard treatise. The chapter on Starting and 
Lighting Systems has been greatly enlarged, and many 
automobile engineering features that have long puzzled lay- 
men are explained so clearly that the underlying principles 
can be understood by anyone. This book was first pub- 
lished six years ago, and so much new matter has been 
added to the book that it is nearly twice its original size. 
The only treatise covering various forms of war automobiles 
and recent developments in motor truck design, as well as 
pleasure cars. This book is not too technical for the layman 
nor too elementary for the more expert. It is an incom- 
parable work of reference for home or school. 6x9. Cloth, 
1.000 pages, nearly 1,000 illustrations, 12 folding plates. 

Price, $4.00 



Questions and Answers Relating to Modern Auto- 
mobile Construction, Driving and Repair. 

By Victor W. Page. A self-educator on automobiling with- 
out an equal. This practical treatise consists of a series of 
thirty-seven lessons, covering with over 2,000 questions and 
their answers — the automobile, its construction, operation 
and repair. The subject matter is absolutely correct and 
explained in simple language. If you can't answer all of 
the following questions, you need this work. The answers 
to these and 2,000 more are to be found in its pages. 

Give the name of all important parts of an automobile 
and describe their functions. Describe action of latest types 
of kerosene carburetors. What is the difference between a 
'double" ignition system and a "dual" ignition system? 
Name parts of an induction coil. How are valves timed? 
What is an electric motor starter and how does it work? 
What are advantages of worm drive gearing? Name all 
important types of ball and roller bearings. What is a 
"three-quarter" floating axle? What is a two-speed axle? 
What is the Vulcan electric gear shift? Name_ the causes 
of lost power in automobiles. Describe all noises due_ to 
deranged mechanism and give causes. How can you adjust 
a carburetor by the color of the exhaust gases? What causes 
"popping" in the carburetor? What tools and supplies are 
needed to equip a car? How do you drive various makes 
of cars? What is a differential lock and where is it used? 
Name different systems of wire wheel construction. What 
is a "positive" drive differential? etc., etc. Answers every 
question a'sked relating to the modern automobile. A popu- 
lar work at a popular price. 5 T Ax7V 2 . Cloth, 650 pages, 
392 illustrations, 3 folding plates. 1920 Edition just pub- 
lished. Price, $2.50 

How to Run an Automobile. 

By Victor W. Page. This treatise gives concise instruc- 
tions for starting and running all makes of gasoline auto- 
mobiles, how to care for them, and gives distinctive features 
of control. Describes every step for shifting gears, con- 
trolling engine, etc. Among the chapters contained are: 
I. Automobile Parts and Their Functions. II. General 
Starting and Driving Instructions. III. Typical 1919 Con- 
trol Systems — Care of Automobiles. Thoroughly illustrated. 
178 pages, 72 illustrations. Price, $1.50 

The Automobilist's Pocket Companion and Ex- 
pense Record. 

By Victor W. Page. This book is not only_ valuable as a 
convenient cost record, but contains much information of 
value to motorists. Includes a condensed digest of aute laws 
of all States, a lubrication schedule, hints for care of storage 
battery and care of tires, location of road troubles, anti- 
freezing solutions, horsepower table, driving hints and many 
useful tables and recipes of interest to all motorists. Not a 
technical book in any sense of the word, just a collection of 
practical facts in simple language for the everyday motorist. 
Convenient pocket size. Price, $1.25 



Gasoline and Kerosene Carburetors, Construction, 
Installation and Adjustment. 

By Capt. V. W. Page. All leading types of carburetors are 
described in detail, special attention being given to the forms 
devised to use the cheaper fuels such as kerosene. Carburetion 
troubles, fuel system troubles, carburetor repairs and instal- 
lation, electric primers and economizers, hot spot manifolds 
and all modern carburetor developments are considered in a 
thorough manner. Methods of adjusting all types of car- 
buretors are fully discussed as well as suggestions for secur- 
ing maximum fuel economy and obtaining highest engine 
power. 250 pages, 89 illustrations. Price, $2.00 



Starting, Lighting and Ignition Systems. 

By Victor W. Page. A practical treatise on latest auto- 
mobile starting, lighting and ignition system practice. This 
practical volume has been written with special reference to 
the requirements of the reader desiring easily understood 
explanatory matter relating to all types of automobile elec- 
trical systems. It can be understood by anyone, even with- 
out electrical knowledge, because elementary electrical prin- 
ciples are considered before any attempt is made to discuss 
features of the various systems. These basic principles are 
clearly stated and illustrated with simple diagrams. All the 
leading systems of starting, lighting and ignition have been 
described and illustrated with the cooperation of the experts 
employed by the manufacturers. Over 200 wiring diagrams 
are shown in both technical and nontechnical forms. Com- 
plete data is given for locating troubles in all systems, the 
various steps being considered in a logical way for those 
without expert electrical knowledge. All ignition systems 
receive full consideration, starting with the simplest battery 
and coil forms found on early cars to the modern short- 
contact timer and magneto methods used with the latest eight 
and twelve-cylinder motors. Full directions are given for 
making all repairs and complete instructions for locating 
troubles with meters. # This book is unusually complete, as 
it also includes descriptions of various accessories operated 
by electric current, such as electrical gear shifts, brake actua- 
tion, signaling devices, vulcanizers, etc. Over 700 pages. 
425 specially made engravings. 1920 Edition, Revised and 
Enlarged. Price, $3.00 



Automobile Welding with the Oxy-Acetylene 
Flame. 

By M. Keith Dunham. Explains in a simple manner ap- 
paratus to be used, its care, and how to construct necessary 
shop equipment. Proceeds then to the actual welding of all 
automobile parts, in a manner understandable by everyone. 
Gives principles never to be forgotten. Thisbook is of ut- 
most value, since the perplexing problems arising when metal 
is heated to a melting point are fully explained and the 
proper methods to overcome them shown. 167 pages, fully 
illustrated. Price, $1.50 



Automobile Repairing Made Easy. 

By Victor W. Page. A thoroughly practical book contain- 
ing complete directions for making repairs to all parts of the 
motor car mechanism. Written in a thorough but non- 
technical manner. Gives plans for workshop construction, 
suggestions for equipment, power needed, machinery and 
tools necessary to carry on business successfully. Tells how 
to overhaul and repair all parts of all automobiles. The 
information given is founded on practical experience, every- 
thing is explained so simply that motorists and students can 
acquire a full working knowledge of automobile repairing. 
Other works dealing with repairing cover only certain parts 
of the car — this work starts with the engine, then considers 
carburetion, ignition, cooling and lubrication systems. The 
clutch, change speed gearing and transmission system are 
considered in detail. Contains instructions for repairing 
all types of axles, steering gears and other chassis parts. 
Many tables, short cuts in figuring and rules of practice 
are given for the mechanic. Explains fully valve and mag- 
neto timing, "tuning" engines, systematic location of trouble, 
repair of ball and roller bearing, shop kinks, first aid to 
injured and a multitude of subjects of interest to all in the 
garage and repair business. All illustrations are especially 
made for this book, and are actual photographs or reproduc- 
tions of engineering drawings. This book also contains 
Special Instructions on Electric Starting, Lighting and Igni- 
tion Systems, Tire Repairing and Rebuilding, Autogenous 
Welding, Brazing and Soldering, Heat Treatment of Steel, 
Latest Timing Practice, Eight and Twelve-Cylinder Motors, 
etc., etc. You will never "Get Stuck" on a Job if you own 
this book. 1,000 specially made engravings on 500 plates. 
1,056 pages (5^x8). 1920 Edition. Price, $4.00 

The Model T Ford Car, Its Construction, Opera- 
tion and Repair, Including the Fordson Farm 
Tractor, F. A. Lighting and Starting System, 
Ford Motor Truck. 

By Victor W. Page. This is the most complete and prac- 
tical instruction book ever published on the Ford car and 
Fordson tractor. A high grade, cloth bound book, printed 
on the best paper, illustrated by specially made drawings and 
photographs. All parts of the Ford Model T car and Ford- 
son tractor are described and illustrated in a comprehensive 
manner. The construction is fully treated _ and operating 
principle made clear to everyone. Complete instructions for 
driving and repairing are given. To the 1920 Revised Edition 
matter has been added on the Ford Truck and Tractor Con- 
version Sets and Genuine Fordson Tractor. All parts are 
described. All repair processes illustrated and fully explained. 
Written so all can understand — no theory, no guesswork. 
New Edition. 153 illustrations, 410 pages, 2 large folding 
plates. Price, $2.00 

Motorcycles, Side Cars and Cyclecars, Their 
Construction, Management and Repair. 

By Victor W. Page. Describes fully all leading types of 
machines, their design, construction, maintenance, operation 
and repair. 550 pages. 350 specially made illustrations, 5 
folding plates. New Edition. Price, $2.50 

L6 



Automobile Charts 

By VICTOR W. PAGE, M.S.A.E. 

THE POPULAR AUTOMOBILE SERIES 
UNIFORM SIZE— 24 'x 38"— PRICE 35 CENTS EACH 



Location of Gasoline Engine Troubles Made Easy. 

This chart shows cleariy all parts of a typical four-cylinder 
gasoline engine of the four-cycle type. It simplifies location of all 
engine troubles. No details omitted. Price 35 cents 

Location of Carburetion Troubles Made Easy. 

It shows clearly how to find carburetion troubles and names 
all defects liable to exist in the various parts. Instructions are 
given for carburetor adjustment. Price, 35 cents' 

Location of Ignition System Troubles Made Easy. 

In this chart all parts of a typical double ignition system using 
battery and magneto current are shown, and suggestions are given 
for readily finding ignition troubles and eliminating them when 
found. Price, 35 cents 

Location of Cooling and Lubricating Troubles. 

This is a combination chart showing all components of the ap- 
proved form of water cooling group as well as a modern engine 
lubrication system. It shows all points where defects exist that 
may result in engine overheating, both in cooling and oiling systems. 

Price, 35 cents 
Lubrication of the Motor Car Chassis. 

This chart presents the plan view of a typical six-cylinder chassis 
of standard design and outlines all important bearing points re- 
quiring lubrication, and is a valuable guide to the correct lubrication 
of any modern car. A practical chart for all interested in motor 
car maintenance. Price, 35 cents' 

While each chart is complete in itself, the set covers all maintenance 
instructions for the entire automobile. Sold singly. Securely wrapped. 

Location of Starting and Lighting System Faults. 

The most complete chart yet devised, showing all parts of the 
modern automobile starting, lig ting and ignition systems, giving in- 
structions for systematic location of all faults in wiring, lamps, 
motor or generator, switches and all other units. Invaluable to 
motorists, chauffeurs and repairmen. Size 24 x 38 inches 

Price, 35 cents 

Location of Ford Engine Troubles Made Easy. 

Chart showing clear sectional views depicting all portions of 
the Ford power plant and auxiliary groups. It outlines clearly 
all parts of the engine, fuel supply systems, ignition group and 
cooling system, that are apt to give trouble, detailing all derange- 
ments that are liable to make an engine lose power, start hard, or 
work irregularly. This chart simplifies location of all engine faults, 
bize 25 x 38 inches. Price, 35 cents 

Location of Motorcycle Troubles Made Easy. 

This chart simplifies location of all power-plant troubles and 
will prove of value to all who have to do with the operation, repair 
or sale of motorcycles. No details omitted. Size 30 x 20 inches. 

Price, 35 cents 



AVIATION 



A B C of Aviation. 

By Capt. V. W. Page. This book describes the basic prin- 
ciples of aviation, tells how a balloon or dirigible is made 
and why it floats in the air. Describes how an airplane flies. 
It shows in detail the different parts of an airplane, what 
they are and what they do. Describes all types of airplanes 
and how they differ in construction; as well as detailing the 
advantages and disadvantages of different types of aircraft. 
It includes a complete dictionary of aviation terms and clear 
drawings of leading airplanes. The reader will find simple 
instructions for unpacking, setting up and rigging airplanes. 
A full description of airplane control principles is given and 
methods of flying are discussed at length. 

This Book answers every question one can ask about mod- 
ern aircraft, their construction and operation. A self educa- 
tor on aviation without an equal. 275 pages, 130 specially 
made illustrations with 7 plates. Price, $2.50 

Aviation Engines — Design; Construction; Repair. 

By Lieut. Victor W. Page, Aviation Section, S.C.U.S.R. 
This treatise, written by a recognized authority on all of 
the practical aspects of internal combustion engine construc- 
tion, maintenance and repair, fills the need as no other book 
does. The matter is logically arranged; all descriptive mat- 
ter is simply expressed and copiously illustrated, so that any- 
one can understand airplane engine operation and repair even 
if without previous mechanical training. This work is in- 
valuable for anyone desiring to become an aviator or aviation 
mechanician. 

The latest rotary types, such as the Gnome Monosoupape, 
and LeRhone, are fully explained, as well as the recently 
developed Vee and radial types. The subjects of carburetion, 
ignition, cooling and lubrication also are covered in a thorough 
manner. The chapters on repair and maintenance are dis- 
tinctive and found in no other book on this subject. Not a 
technical book, but a practical, easily understood work of 
reference for all interested in aeronautical science. 576 
pages, 253 illustrations. Price, Net, $3.00 

Glossary of Aviation Terms — English-French; 
French-English. 

A complete glossary of practically all terms used in aviation, 
having lists in both French and English with equivalents in 
either language compiled by Lieuts. Victor W. Page, A.S., 
S.C.U.S.R., and Paul Montariol, of the French Flying 
Corps. Price, Net, $1.00 

Aviation Chart — Location of Airplane Power 
Plant Troubles Made Easy. 

By Lieut. Victor W. Page, A.S., S.C.U.S.R. A large chart 
outlining all parts of a typical airplane power plant, showing 
the points \Miere trouble is apt to occur and suggesting 
remedies for the common defects. Intended especially for 
aviators and aviation mechanics on school and field duty. 

Price. 35 cents 



BRAZING AND SOLDERING 



Brazing and Soldering. 

By James F. Hobart. The only book that shows you just 
how to handle any job of brazing or soldering that come9 
along; it tells you what mixture to use, how to make a 
furnace if you need one. Full of valuable kinks. The fifth 
edition of this book has just been published, and to it much 
new matter and a large number of tested formulas for all 
kinds of solders and fluxes have been added. Price, 35c. 



CHARTS 



Aviation Chart — Location of Airplane Power 
Plant Troubles Made Easy. 

By Lieut. Victor W. Page, A.S., S.C.U.S.R. A large chart 
outlining all parts of a typical airplane power plant, showing 
the points where trouble is apt to oceur and suggesting 
remedies for the common defects. Intended especially for 
aviators and aviation mechanics on school and field duty. 

Price, 35 cents 

Modern Submarine Chart— With 200 Parts Num- 
bered and Named. 

A cross-section view, showing clearly and distinctly all the 
interior of a submarine of the latest type. No details omitted — 
everything is accurate and to scale. This chart is really an 
encyclopedia of a submarine. Price, 25 cents 

Box Car Chart. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a box car, having every part 
of the car numbered and its proper name given in a reference 
list. Price, 25 cent* 

Gondola Car Chart. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a gondola car, having every 
part of the car numbered and its proper reference name given 
in a reference list. Price, 25 cents 

Passenger Car Chart. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a passenger car, having 
every part of the car numbered and its proper name given 
in a reference list. Price, 25 cent* 

Steel Hopper Bottom Coal Car. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a steel hopper bottom coal 
car, having every part of the car numbered and its proper 
name given in a reference list. Price, 25 cents 

Tractive Power Chart. 

A chart whereby you can find the tractive power or drawbar 
pull of any locomotive without making a figure. Shows what 
cylinders are equal, how' driving wheels and steam pressure 
affect the power. What sized engine you need to exert a 
given drawbar pull or anything you desire in this line. 

Price, 50 cents 
9 



Horse-power Chart. 

Shows the horse-power of any stationary engine without 
calculation. No matter what the cylinder diameter of stroke, 
the steam pressure or cut-off, the revolutions, or whether 
condensing or non-condensing, it's all there. Easy to use, 
accurate and saves time and calculations. Especially useful 
to engineers and designers. Price, 50 cents 

Boiler Room Chart 

By George L. Fowler. A chart — size 14 x 28 inches — showing 
in isometric perspective the mechanisms belonging in a modern 
boiler room. This chart is really a dictionary of the boiler 
room — the names of more than 200 parts being given. 

Price, 25 cents 

COKE 

Coke — Modern Coking Practice, Including An- 
alysis of Materials and Products. 

By J. E. Christopher and T. H. Byrom. This, the standard 
work on the subject, has just been revised and is now 
issued in two volumes. It is a practical work for those en- 
gaged in Coke manufacture and the recovery of By-products. 
Fully illustrated with folding plates. It has been the aim 
of the authors, in preparing this book, to produce one which 
shall be of use and benefit to those who are associated with, 
or interested in, the modern developments of the industry. 
Among the chapters contained in Volume I are: Introduc- 
tion; Classification of Fuels; Impurities of Coals; Coal 
Washing; Sampling and Valuation of Coals, etc.; Chlorific 
Power of Fuels; History of Coke Manufacture; Develop- 
ments in Coke Oven Design; Recent Types of Coke Ovens; 
Mechanical Appliances at Coke Ovens; Chemical and Physi- 
cal Examination of Coke. Volume II covers By-products. 
Each volume is fully illustrated, with folding plates. 

Price, $3.00 yer volume 

COMPRESSED AIR 



Compressed Air in all Its Applications. 

By Gardner D. Hiscox. This is the most complete book on 
the subject of air that has ever been issued, and its thirty-five 
chapters include about every phase of the subject one can 
think of. It may be called an encyclopedia of compressed 
air. It is written by an expert, who, in its 665 pages, has 
dealt with the subject in a comprehensive manner, no phase 
of it being omitted. Over 500 illustrations. Fifth Edition, 
revised and enlarged. Cloth bound, $0.00. Half Morocco, 
revised and enlarged. Cloth bound. Price, $6.00 

CONCRETE 



Concrete Wall Forms. 

By A. A. Houghton. A new automatic wall clamp, is illus- 
trated with working drawings. Other types of wall forms, 
clamps, separators, etc., are also illustrated and explained. 

Price, 75 cents 



Concrete Floors and Sidewalks. 

By A. A. Houghton. The molds for molding squares, hex- 
agonal and many other styles of mosaic floor and sidewalk 
blocks are fully illustrated and explained. Price, 75 cents 

Practical Concrete Silo Construction. 

By A. A. Houghton. Complete working drawings and speci- 
fications are given for several styles of concrete silos, with 
illustrations of molds for monolithic and block silos. The 
tables, data, and information presented in this book are 
of the utmost value in planning and constructing all forms 
of concrete silos. Price, 75 cents 

Molding Concrete Bath Tubs, Aquariums and 
Natatoriums. 

By A. A. Houghton. Simple molds and instruction are given 
for molding different styles of concrete bath tubs, swimming 
pools, etc. Price, 75 cents 

Molding Concrete Chimneys, Slate and Roof Tiles. 

By A. A. Houghton. The manufacture of all types of con- 
crete slate and roof tile is fully treated. Valuable data on 
all forms of reinforced concrete roofs are contained within 
its pages. The construction of concrete chimneys by block 
and monolithic systems is fully illustrated and described. 
A number of ornamental designs of chimney construction with 
molds are shown in this valuable treatise. 75 cents 

Molding and Curing Ornamental Concrete. 

By A. A. Houghton. The proper proportions of cement 
and aggregates for various finishes, also the methods of thor- 
oughly mixing and placing in the molds, are fully treated. 
An exhaustive treatise on this subject that every concrete 
worker will find of daily use and value. Price, 75 cents 

Concrete Monuments, Mausoleums and Burial 
Vaults. 

By A. A. Houghton. The molding of concrete monuments 
to imitate the most expensive cut stone is explained in' this 
treatise, with working drawings of easily built molds. Cutting 
inscriptions and designs is also fully treated. 75 cents 

Concrete Bridges, Culverts and Sewers. 

By A. A. Houghton. A number of ornamental concrete 
bridges with illustrations of molds are given. A collapsible 
center of core for bridges, culverts and sewers is fully illus- 
trated with detailed instructions for building. 75 cents 

Constructing Concrete Porches. 

By A. A. Houghton. A number of designs with working 
drawings of molds are fully explained so any one can easily 
construct different styles of ornamental concrete porches 
without the purchase* of expensive molds. Price, 75 cents 

11 



Molding Concrete Flower Pots, Boxes, Jardi- 
nieres, Etc. 

By A. A. Houghton. The molds for producing many original 
designs of flower pots, urns, flower boxes, jardinieres, etc., 
are fully illustrated and explained, so the worker can easily 
construct and operate same. Price, 75 cents 

Molding Concrete Fountains and Lawn Orna- 
ments. 

By A. A. Houghton. The molding of a number of designs 
of lawn seats, curbing, hitching posts, pergolas, sun dials and 
other forms of ornamental concrete, for the ornamentation 
of lawns and gardens, is fully illustrated and described. 75c. 

Concrete on the Farm and in the Shop. 

By H. Colvin Campbell. This is a new book from cover 
to cover, illustrating and describing in plain, simple language 
many of the numerous appliances of concrete within the 
range of the home worker. Among the subjects treated are: 
Principles of reinforcing; methods of protecting concrete so 
as to insure proper hardening; home-made mixers; mixing 
by hand and machine; form construction, described and 
illustrated by drawings and photographs; construction of 
concrete walls and fences; concrete fence posts; concrete 
gate posts; corner posts; clothes line posts; grape arbor 
posts; tanks; troughs; cisterns: hog wallows; feeding floors 
and barnyard pavements; foundations; well curbs and plat- 
forms; indoor floors; sidewalks; steps; concrete hotbeds and 
cold frames; concrete slab roofs; walls for buildings; repairing 
leaks in tanks and cisterns; and all topics associated with 
these subjects as bearing upon securing the best results from 
concrete are dwelt upon at sufficient length in plain every-day 
English so that the inexperienced person desiring to under- 
take a piece of concrete construction can, by following the 
directions set forth in this book, secure 100 per cent success 
every time. A number of convenient and practical tables 
for estimating quantities, and some practical examples, are 
also given. 150 pages, 51 illustrations. Price, $1.00 

Concrete From Sand Molds. 

By A. A. Houghton. A practical work treating on a process 
which has heretofore been held as a trade secret by the 
few who possessed it, and which will successfully mold every 
and any class of ornamental concrete work. The process 
of molding concrete with sand molds is of the utmost practical 
value, possessing the manifold advantages of a low cost of 
molds, the ease and rapidity of operation, perfect details 
to all ornamental designs, density and increased strength 
of the concrete, perfect curing of the work without attention 
and the easy removal of the molds regardless of any under- 
cutting the design may have. 192 pages. Fullv illustrated. 
Cloth. Price, $2.00 

Ornamental Concrete Without Molds. 

By A. A. Houghton. The process for making ornamental 
concrete without molds has long been held as a secret, and 
now, for the first time, this process is given to the public. 
The book reveals the secret and is the only book published 

12 



which explains a simple, practical method whereby the con- 
crete worker is enabled, by employing wood and metal tem- 
plates of different designs, to mold or model in concrete 
any cornice, archivolt, column, pedestal, base cap urn or 
pier in a monolithic form— right upon the job. lhese may 
be molded in units or blocks, and then built up to suit the 
specifications demanded. This work is fully illustrated, with 
detailed engravings. Cloth. Price, $2.00 

Popular Handbook for Cement and Concrete 
Users. 

By Myron H. Lewis. Everything of value to the concrete 
user is contained, including kinds of cement employed in 
construction, concrete architecture, inspection and testing, 
waterproofing, coloring and painting, rules tables, working 
and cost data. The book comprises thirty-three chapters. A 
valuable addition to the library of every cement and concrete 
user. Cloth, 430 pages, 126 illustrations. Price, $3.00 

Waterproofing Concrete. 

By Myron H. Lewis. Modern methods of waterproofing 
concrete and other structures. A condensed statement of the 
principles, rules and precautions to be observed in water- 
proofing and damp-proofing structures and structural materials. 
Paper binding. Illustrated. Second Edition. 75 cents 

DIES— METAL WORK 

Dies; Their Construction and Use for the Modern 
Working of Sheet Metals. 

By J. V. Woodworth. A new book by a practical man, for 
those who wish to know the latest practice in the working 
of sheet metals. It shows how dies are designed, made and 
used, and those who are engaged in this line of work can 
secure many valuable suggestions. Sixth revised edition. 525 
illustrations, 394 pages. Cloth. .'Price, $3.50 

Punches, Dies and Tools for Manufacturing in 
Presses. 

By J. V. Woodworth. An encyclopedia of die-making, 
punch-making, die-sinking, sheet-metal working, and making 
of special tools, subpresses, devices and mechanical combina- 
tions for punching, cutting, bending, forming, piercing, draw- 
ing, compressing, and assembling sheet-metal parts and also 
articles of other materials in machine tools. This is a dis- 
tinct work from the author's book entitled "Dies; Their 
Construction and Use." 500 pages, 700 engravings. Second 
edition. Cloth. Price, $4.50 

Drop Forging, Die-Sinking and Machine-Form- 
ing of Steel. 

By J. V. Woodworth. The processes of die-sinking and 
force-making, which are thoroughly described and illustrated 
in this admirable work, are rarely to be found explained in 
such a clear and concise manner as is here set forth. The 
process of die-sinking i elates to the engraving or sinking 

13 



of the female or lower dies, such as are used for drop 
forgings, hot and cold machine forging, swedging and the 
press working of metals. The process of force-making relates 
to the engraving or raising of the male or upper dies used 
in producing the lower dies for the press-forming and 
machine-forging of duplicate parts of metal. The book con- 
tains eleven chapters, and the information contained in these 
chapters is just what will prove most valuable to the forged- 
metal worker. 304 detailed illustrations. 341 pages, cloth. 

Price, $3.00 



DICTIONARIES 

Aviation Terms — English-French; French-Eng- 
lish. 

A complete glossary of practically all terms used in aviation, 
having lists in both French and English with equivalents in 
either language. A very valuable book compiled by Lieuts. 
Victor W. Page and Paul Montariol. Price, $1.00 

Standard Electrical Dictionary. 

By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. Just issued an entirely 
new edition brought up to date and greatly enlarged — as a 
reference book this work is beyond comparison as it contains 
over 700 pages, nearly 500 illustrations, and definitions of 
about 6,000 distinct words, terms and phrases. The defini- 
tions are terse and concise and includes every term used 
in electrical science. 

In its arrangement and typography the book is very con- 
venient. The word or term defined is printed in black faced 
type which readily catches the eye, while the body of the 
page is in smaller but distinct type. The definitions are well 
worded, and so as to be understood by the non-technical 
reader. The general plan is to give an exact, concise defini- 
tion, and then amplify and explain in a more popular way. 
Synonyms are also given, and references to other words 
and phrases are made. This work is absolutely indispensable 
to all in any way interested in electrical science, from the 
higher electrical expert to the everyday electrical workman. 
In fact, it should be in the possession of all who desire to 
keep abreast with the progress of this branch of science. 
1920 enlarged edition. Nearly 800 pages and nearly 400 
illustrations. Price, $5.00 



DRAWING— SKETCHING PA PER 
Linear Perspective Self-Taught. 

By Herman T. C. Kraus. This work gives the theory and 
practice of linear perspective, as used in architectural, engi- 
neering and mechanical drawings. The arrangement of 
the book is good; the plate is on the left-hand, while the de- 
scriptive text follows on the opposite page, so as to be readily 
referred to. A self-explanatory linear perspective chart is 
included in the second revised edition. Cloth. Price, $3.00 

14 



Self-Taught Mechanical Drawing and Elementary 
Machine Design. 

By F. L. Sylvester, M.E., Draftsman, with additions by Erik 
Oberg, associate editor of "Machinery." A practical ele- 
mentary treatise on Mechanical Drawing and Machine De- 
sign, comprising the first principles of geometric and mechan- 
ical drawing, workshop mathematics, mechanics, strength of 
materials and the calculation and design of machine details, 
compiled for the use of practical mechanics and young drafts- 
men. 330 pages, 215 engravings, cloth. Price, $2.50 

A New Sketching Paper. 

A new specially ruled paper to enable you to make sketches 
or drawings in isometric perspective without any figuring or 
fussing. It is being used for shop details as well as for 
assembly drawings, as it makes one sketch do the work of 
three, and no workman can help seeing just what is wanted. 
Pads of 40 sheets, 6x9 inches, Price, 25c; 9x12 inches, 
Price, 50c; 12 x 18 inches, Price, $1.00. 

Practical Perspective. 

By Richards and Colvin. Shows just how to make all kinds 
of mechanical drawings in the only practical perspective 
isometric. Makes everything plain so that any mechanic can 
understand a sketch or drawing in this way. Saves time in 
the drawing room and mistakes in the shops. Contains prac- 
tical examples of various classes of work. Third edition. 
Limp cloth. Price, 75 cents 

ELECTRICITY 

/ 

Arithmetic of Electricity. 

By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. A practical treatise on elec- 
trical calculations of all kinds reduced to a series of rules, 
all of the simplest forms, and involving only ordinary arith- 
metic; each rule illustrated by one or more practical problems 
with detailed solution of each one. This book is classed 
among the most useful works published on the science of 
electricity, covering as it does the mathematics of electricity 
in a manner that will attract the attention of those who are 
not familiar with algebraical formulas. 200 pages. 192u 
Revised and Enlarged edition. Price, $1.50 

Dynamo Building for Amateurs, or How to Con- 
struct a Fifty Watt Dynamo. 

By Arthur J. Weed. A practical treatise showing in detail 
the construction of a small dynamo or motor, the entire 
machine work of which can be done on a small foot lathe. 
Dimensioned working drawings are given for each piece of 
machine work, and each operation is clearly described. This 
machine, when used as a dynamo, has an output of fifty 
watts; when used as a motor it will drive a small drill press 
or lathe. It can be used to drive a sewing machine on any 
and all ordinary work. The book is illustrated with more 
thsn sixty original engravings showing the actual construction 
of the different parts. Price, C'ioth, $1.00 

15 



Electric Bells. 

By M. B. Sleeper. A complete treatise for the practical 
worker in installing, operating and testing bell circuits, 
burglar alarms, thermostats and other apparatus used with 
electric bells. Both the electrician and the experimenter will 
find in this book new material which is essential in their 
work. Tools, bells, batteries, unusual circuits, burglar alarms, 
annunciators, systems, thermostats, circuit breakers, time 
alarms, and other apparatus used in bell circuits are de- 
scribed from the standpoints of their application, construc- 
tion, and repair. The detailed instructions for building the 
apparatus will appeal to the experimenter particularly. The 
practical worker will find the chapters on Wiring Calculation 
of Wire Sizes and Magnet Windings, Upkeep of Systems 
and the Location of Faults of the greatest value in their 
work. 124 pages. Fully illustrated. Price, 75 cents. 

Commutator Construction 

By Wm. Baxter, Jr. The business end of dynamo or motor 
of the direct current type is the commutator. This book goes 
into the designing, building and maintenance of commutators, 
shows how to 'locate troubles and how to remedy them; 
everyone who fusses with dynamos needs this. Fourth edi- 
tion. Price, 35 cents. 

Dynamos and Electric Motors and All About 
Them. 

By Edward Trevert. This volume gives practical directions 
for building a two H. P. Dynamo of the Edison type capable 
of lighting about fifty mazda lamps of the 20 watt size. In 
addition, it gives directions for building two small electric 
motors suitable for running sewing machines. The concluding 
chapter describes the construction of a simple bichromate 
battery adapted for running electric motors. 96 pages. Fully 
illustrated with detail drawings. Cloth. Price, $1.00. 

Construction of a Transatlantic Wireless Receiv- 
ing Set. 

By L. G. Pacent and T. S. Curtis. A work for the Radio 
student who desires to construct and operate apparatus that 
will permit of the reception of messages from the large 
stations in Europe with an aerial of amateur proportions. 36 
pages. 23 illustrations, cloth. Price, 35 cents. 

Electric Toy Making, Dynamo Building and 
Electric Motor Construction. 

This work treats of the making at home of electrical toys, 
electrical apparatus, motors, dynamos and instruments in 
general and is designed to bring within the reach of young 
and old the manufacture of genuine and useful electrical 
appliances. 210 pages, cloth. Fully illustrated. Twentieth 
edition, enlarged. Price, $1.50 

Experimental High Frequency Apparatus, How 
to Make and Use It. 

By Thomas Stanley Curtis. 69 pages, illustrated. 

Price, 50 cents. 

16 



Electrician's Handy Book. 

By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. _ This work has just been 
revised and much enlarged. It is intended for the practical 
electrician who has to make things go. The entire field of 
electricity is covered within its pages. It is a work of the 
most modern practice, written in a clear, comprehensive 
manner, and covers the subject thoroughly, beginning at the 
A B C of the subject, and gradually takes you to the more 
advanced branches of the science. It teaches you just what 
you should know about electricity. A practical work for the 
practical man. Contains forty-eight chapters. 

The publishers consider themselves fortunate in having 
secured the services of such a well and favorably known 
writer as Prof. Sloane, who has with the greatest care com- 
pleted a master work in concise form on this all important 
subject. 600 engravings, 840 pages, handsomely bound in 
cloth. 1920 Edition. Price, $4.00 

Electricity Simplified. 

By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. The object of 'Electricity 
Simplified" is to make the subject as plain as possible and 
to show what the modern conception of electricity is; to 
show how two plates of different metals immersed in acid 
can send a message around the globe; to explain how a 
bundle of copper wire rotated by a steam engine can be the 
agent in lighting our streets, to tell what the volt, ohm and 
ampere are, and what high and low tension mean; and to 
answer the questions that perpetually arise in the mind in 
this age of electricity. 172 pages. Illustrated. Thirteenth 
edition. Cloth. Price. $1.50 

Electric Wiring, Diagrams and Switchboards. 

By Newton Harrison, with additions by Thomas Poppe. 
This is the only complete work issued showing and telling 
you what you should know about direct and alternating cur- 
rent wiring. The work is free from advanced technicalities 
and mathematics, arithmetic being used throughout. It is in 
every respect a handy, well-written, instructive, comprehen- 
sive volume on wiring for the wireman, foreman, contractor 
or electrician. Third revised edition. 303 pages, 130 illus- 
trations. Cloth. Price, $2.50 

House Wiring. 

By Thomas W. Poppe. Describing and illustrating up-to-date 
methods of installing electric light wiring. Contains just the 
information needed for successful wiring of a building. 
Fully illustrated with diagrams and plans. It solves all wiring 
problems and contains nothing that conflicts with the rulingr 
of the National Board of Fire Underwriters. Third edition 
revised and enlarged. 125 pages, fully illustrated, flexible 
cloth. Price, 75 cents 

High Frequency Apparatus, Its Construction and 
Practical Application. 

By Thomas Stanley Curtis. The most comprehensive and 
thorough work on this interesting subject ever produced. 
The book is essentially practical in its treatment and it con- 
stitutes an accurate record of the researches of its author 
over a period of several years, during which time dozens of 
coils were built and experimented with. New revised and 
enlarged 1920 edition. 275 pages. Price, $3.00 

17 



How to Become a Successful Electrician. 

By Frof. T. O'Conor Sloane. An interesting book from 
cover to cover. Telling in simplest language the surest and 
easiest way to become a successful electrician. The studies 
to be followed, methods of work, field of operation and the 
requirements of the successful electrician are pointed out and 
fully explained. 202 pages. Illustrated. Eighteenth revised 
edition. Cloth. Price, $1.50 

Standard Electrical Dictionary. 

By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. Just issued an entirely new 
edition brought up to date and greatly enlarged — as a refer- 
ence book this work is beyond comparison as it contains over 
700 pages, nearly 500 illustrations, and definitions of about 
6,000 distinct words, terms and phrases. The definitions are 
terse and concise and includes every term used in electrical 
science. 

In its arrangement and typography the book is very con- 
venient. The word or term defined is printed in black faced 
type which readily catches the eye, while the body of the 
page is in smaller but distinct type. The definitions are well 
worded, and so as to be understood by the non-technical 
reader. The general plan is to give an exact, concise defini- 
tion, and then amplify and explain in a more popular way. 
Synonyms are also given, and references to other words and 
phrases are made. This work is absolutely indispensable to 
all in any way interested in electrical science, from the 
higher electrical expert to the everyday electrical workman. 
tn fact, it should be in the possession of all who desire to keen 
abreast with the progress of this branch of science. 1920 
enlarged edition. Nearly 800 pages. 400 illustrations. 

Price, $5.00 

Storage Batteries Simplified. 

By Victor W. Page. M.S.A.E. This is the most thorough 
and authoritative treatise ever published on this subject. It 
is written in easily understandable, non-technical language so 
that any one may grasp the basic principles of storage bat- 
tery action as well as their practical industrial applications. 
All electric and gasoline automobiles use storage batteries. 
Every automobile repairman, dealer or salesman should have 
a good knowledge of maintenance and repair of these im- 
portant elements of the motor car mechanism. This book 
not only tells how to charge, care for and rebuild storage 
batteries but also outlines all the industrial uses. Learn 
how they run street cars, locomotives and factory trucks. 
Get an understanding of the important functions they per- 
form in submarine boats, isolated lighting plants, railway 
switch and signal systems, marine applications, etc. This 
book tells how they are used in central station standby ser- 
vice, for starting automobile motors and in ignition systems. 
Every practical use of the modern storage battery is out- 
lined in this treatise. 208 pages, fully illustrated. 

Price, $2.00 

Wiring a House. 

By Herbert Pratt. Shows a house already built; tells just 
how to start about wiring it; where to begin; what wire to 
use; how to run it according to insurance rules; in fact, just 
the information you need. Diiections apply equally to a 
shop. Fourth edition. Price, 35 cents 

18 



Switchboards. 

By William Baxter; Jr. This book appeals to every engi- 
neer and electrician who wants to know the practical side 
of things. All sorts and conditions of dynamos, connections 
and circuits are shown by diagram and illustrate just how 
the switchboard should be connected. Includes direct and 
alternating current boards, also those for arc lighting, incan- 
descent and power circuits. Special treatment on high voltage 
boards for power transmission. Second edition. 190 pages. 
Illustrated. Price, $2.00 

Telephone Construction, Installation, Wiring, 
Operation and Maintenance. 

By W. H. Radcliffe and H. C. Cushing. This book gives 
the principles of construction and operation of both the 
Bell and Independent instruments; approved methods of 
installing and wiring them; the means of protecting them 
from lightning and abnormal currents; their connection to- 
gether for operation as series or bridging stations; and rules 
for their inspection and maintenance. Line wiring and the 
wiring and operation of special telephone systems are also 
treated. 224 pages, 132 illustrations. Second revised edition. 

Price, .$1.50 

Wireless Telegraphy and Telephony Simply Ex- 
plained. 

By Alfred P. Morgan. This is undoubtedly one of the 
most complete and comprehensive treatises on the subject 
ever published, and a close study of its pages will enable 
one to master all the details of the wireless transmission of 
messages. The author has filled a long-felt want and has 
succeeded in furnishing a lucid, comprehensible explanation 
in simple language of the theory and practise of wireless 
telegraphy and telephony. Third edition. 154 pages, 156 
engravings. Price, $1.50 

Radio Time Signal Receiver. 

By Austin C. Lescarboura. This new book, "A Radio Time 
Signal Receiver," tells you how to build a simple outfit de- 
signed expressly for the beginner. You can build the out- 
fits in your own workshop and install them for jewelers 
either on a one-payment or a rental basis. The apparatus 
is of such simple design that it may be made by the average 
amateur mechanic possessing a few ordinary tools. 42 pages. 
Paper. Price, 35 cents 

Experimental Wireless Stations. 

By P. E. Edelman. The theory, design, construction and 
operation is fully treated including Wireless Telephony, 
Vacuum Tube, and quenched spark systems. The new en- 
larged 1920 edition is just issued and is strictly up to date, 
correct and complete. This book tells how to make apparatus 
to not only hear all telephoned radio messages, but also how 
to make simple equipment that works for transmission over 
reasonably long distances. Then there is a host of new in- 
formation included. The first and only book to give you 
all the recent important radio improvements, some of which 
have never before been published. 24 chapters. 167 illustra- 
tions. Price, $2.50 

19 



FUEL 



Combustion of Coal and the Prevention of Smoke. 

By Wm. M. Barr. This book has been prepared with special 
reference to the generation of heat by the combustion of 
♦he common fuels found in the United States, and deals 
particularly with the conditions necessary to the economic 
and smokeless combustion of bituminous coals in stationary 
and locomotive steam boilers. The presentation of this 
important subject is systematic and progressive. The arrange- 
ment of the book is in a series of practical questions, to 
which are appended accurate answers, which describe in 
language, free from technicalities, the several processes in- 
volved in the furnace _ combustion of American fuels; it 
clearly states the essential requisites for perfect combustion, 
and points out the best methods for furnace construction for 
obtaining the greatest quantity of heat from any given quality 
of coal. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. Fifth edition. 

Price, $1.50 

Smoke Prevention and Fuel Economy. 

Bv Booth and Kershaw. As the title indicates, this book 
of 197 pages and 75 illustrations deals with the problem of 
complete combustion, which it treats from the chemical and 
mechanical standpoints,, besides pointing out the economical 
and humanitarian aspects of the question. Price, $3.00 

GAS ENGINES AND GAS 



Gas, Gasoline and Oil Engines. 

By Gardner D. Hiscox. Revised by Victor W. Pag£. Just 
issued new, revised and enlarged edition. Every user of a 
gas engine needs this book. Simple, instructive and right 
vp-to-date. The only complete work on the subject. Tells all 
about internal combustion engineering, treating exhaustively 
on the design, construction and practical application of all 
forms of gas, gasoline, kerosene and crude petroleum-oil 
engines. Describes minutely _ all auxiliary systems, such as 
lubrication, carburetion and ignition. Considers the theory 
and management of all forms of explosive motors for sta- 
tionary and marine work, automobiles, aeroplanes and motor- 
cycles. Includes also Producer Gas and Its Production. 
Invaluable instructions for all students, gas-engine owners, 
gas-engineers, patent experts, designers, mechanics, drafts- 
men and all having to do with the modern power. Illustrated 
by over 400 engravings, many specially made from engineer- 
ing drawings, all in correct proportion. Nearly 700 octavo 
pages and 500 engravings. Price, net, $3.00 

Gasoline Engines: Their Operation, Use and Care. 

By A. Hyatt Verrill. A comprehensive, simple and prac- 
tical work, treating of gasoline engines for stationary, marine 
or vehicle use; their construction, design, management, care, 
operation, repair, installation and troubles. A complete glos- 
sary of technical terms and an alphabetically arranged table 
of troubles and symptoms form a most valuable and unique 
feature of the book. 5 l / 4 x7y 2 . Cloth. 275 pages, 152 illus- 
trations. Price, $2.00 

20 



Gas Engine Construction. t 

Cloth. 

Chemistry of Gas Manufacture. 

&r" 3Uk -Ployed in «V =f acU, r e o^nauns 
SSdSS so a r„ d ti o„ f s/s he gi vfn S as P w | .l as the cheJU and phys, 

Modern Gas Engines and Producer Gas Plants. 

T?v R F Mathot ME. A practical treatise of 320 pages, 
FuV illustrated °by 175 detailed illustrations, , setting forth 
Se principles of gas engines and .producer design, the selec- 
tion and installation of an engine conditions of perfect 
operation, producer-gas engines and their Possibilities the 
care of gas engines and producer-gas plants, with a chapter 
on volatile hydrocarbon and oil engines This book has been 
endorsed by Dugal Clerk as a most usefu work for all inter- 
ested in gas engine installation and producer gas. ifcrf.UU 

The Gasoline Engine on the Farm: Its Operation, 
Repair and Uses. 

Bv Xeno W. Putnam. A useful and practical treatise on 
the modern gasoline and kerosene engine, its construction, 
management, repair and the many uses to which it can be 
applied in present-day farm life. It considers all the various 
household, shop and field uses of this up-to-date motor and 
includes chapters on engine installation, power transmission 
and the best arrangement of the power plant in reference 
to the work. 5&X7K. Cloth. 527 P a S e V rl ce! i^OO 

How to Run and Install Two- and Four-Cycle 
Marine, Gasoline Engines. 

Bv C Von Culin. New revised and enlarged edition just 
issued. The object of this little book is to furnish a pocket 
instructor for the beginner, the busy man who uses an engine 
for pleasure or profit, but who does not have the time or 
inclination for a technical book, but simply to thoroughly 
understand how to properly operate, install and care tor nis 
own engine. The index refers to each trouble, remedy and 
subject alphabetically. Being a quick reference to nncl tne 
cause, remedy and prevention for troubles, and to become 
an expert with his own engine. Pocket size. Pa P e ^ l |£nt» 
( 

21 



Modern Gas Tractor, Its Construction, Utility, 
Operation and Repair. 

By Victor W. Page. Treats exhaustively on the design and 
construction of farm tractors and tractor power-plants, and 
gives complete instructions on their care, operation and re- 
pair. All types and sizes of gasoline, kerosene and oil 
tractory are described, and every phase of traction engineer- 
ing practice fully covered. Invaluable to all desiring re- 
liable information on gas motor propelled traction engines 
and their use. Second edition revised by much additional 
matter. 5^x7^. Cloth, 504 pages, 228 illustrations. 3 
folding plates. Price, $3.00 

GEARING AND CAMS 



Bevel Gear Tables. 

By D. Ag. Engstrom. No one who has to do with bevel 
gears in any way should be without this book. The designer 
and draftsman will find it a great convenience, while to 
t he _ machinist who turns up the blanks or cuts the teeth it 
is invaluable, as all needed dimensions are given and no 
fancy figuring need be done. Third edition. Cloth. $1.50 

Change Gear Devices. 

By Oscar E. Perrigo. A book for every designer, draftsman 
and mechanic who is interested in feed changes for any kind 
of machines. This shows what has been done and how. 
Gives plans, patents and all information that you need. Saves 
hunting through patent records and reinventing old ideas. 
A standard work of reference. Third edition. $1.50 

Drafting of Cams. 

By Louis Rouillion. The laying out of cams is a serious 
problem unless you know how to go at it right. This puts 
you on the right road for practically any kind of cam you 
are likely to run up against. Third edition. 35 cents 

HYDRAULICS 

Hydraulic Engineering. 

By Gardner D. Hiscox. A treatise on the properties, power, 
and resources of water for all purposes. Including the meas- 
urements of streams; the flow of water in pipes or conduits; 
the horse-power of falling water; turbine and impact water- 
wheels; wave-motors, centrifugal, reciprocating and air-lift 
pumps. With 300 figures and diagrams and 36 practical 
tables. 320 pages. Price, $4.50 

ICE AND REFRIGERATION 



Pocketbook of Refrigeration and Ice Making. 

By A. J. Wallis-Taylor. This is one of the latest and 
most comprehensive reference books published on the subject 
of refrigeration and cold storage. It explains the properties 

22 



and refrigerating effect of the different fluids in use, the 
management of refrigerating machinery and the contsruction 
and insulation of cold rooms with their required pipe surface 
for different degrees of cold; freezing mixtures and non- 
freezing brines, temperatures of cold rooms for all kinds of 
provisions, cold storage charges for all classes of goods, ice 
making and storage of ice, data and memoranda for constant 
reference by refrigerating engineers, with nearly one hundred 
tables containing valuable references to every fact and con- 
dition required in the installment and operation of a refriger- 
ating plant. New edition just published. Price, $2.00 

INVENTIONS— PATENTS 



Inventor's Manual, How to Make a Patent Pay. 

This is a book designed as a guide to inventors in perfecting 
their inventions, taking out their patents, and disposing of 
them. It is not in any sense a Patent Solicitor's circular nor 
a Patent Broker's advertisement. No advertisements of any 
description appear in the work. It is a book containing a 
quarter of a century's experience of a successful inventor, 
together with notes based upon the experience of many other 
inventors. Revised and enlarged second edition. Nearly 150 
pages. Illustrated. Price $1.25 

KNOTS 



Knots, Splices and Rope Work. 

By A. Hyatt Verrill. This is a practical book giving com- 
plete and simple directions for making all the most useful and 
ornamental knots in common use, with chapters on Splicing, 
Pointing, Seizing, Serving, etc. This book is fully illustrated 
with 154 original engravings, which show how each knot, 
tie or splice is formed, and its appearance when finished. 
The book will be found of the greatest value to campers, 
yachtsmen, travelers or Boy Scouts, in fact, to anyone having 
occasion to use or handle rope or knots for any purpose. 
The book is thoroughly reliable and practical, and is not 
only a guide but a teacher. It is the standard work on the 
subject. Second edition revised. 128 pages, 154 original 
engravings. Price, $1.00 

LATHE WORK 



Complete Practical Machinist. 

By Joshua Rose. The new, twentieth revised and enlarged 
edition is now ready. This is one of the best-known books 
on machine-shop work, and written for the practical work- 
man in the language of the workshop. It gives full, practi- 
cal intsructions on the use of all kinds of metal-working tools, 
both hand and machine, and tells how the work should be 
properly done. It covers lathe work, vise work, drills and 
drilling, taps and dies, hardening and tempering, the making 
and use of tools, tool grinding, marking out work, machine 
tools, etc. No machinist's library is complete without this 
volume. 547 pages, 432 illustrations. (1920.) Price $3.00 

23 



The Lathe — Its Design, Construction and Opera, 
tion, With Practical Examples of Lathe Work. 

By Oscar E. Perrigo. A new revised edition, and the only 
complete American work on the subject, written by a man 
who knows not only how work ought to be done, but who 
also knows how to do it, and how to convey this knowledge 
to others. It is strictly up-to-date in its descriptions and 
illustrations. Lathe history and the relations of the lathe 
to manufacturing are given; also a description of the various 
devices for feeds and thread cutting mechanisms from early 
efforts in this direction to the present time. Lathe design is 
thoroughly discussed, including back gearing, driving cones, 
thread-cutting gears, and all the essential element of the 
modern lathe. The classification of lathes is taken up, giving 
the essential differences of the several types of lathes includ- 
ing, as is usually understood, engine lathes, bench lathes, 
speed lathes, forge lathes, gap lathes, pulley lathes, forming 
lathes, multiple-spindle lathes, rapid-reduction lathes, precision 
lathes, turret lathes, special lathes, electrically-driven lathes, 
etc. In addition to the complete exposition on construction 
and design, much practical matter on lathe installation, care 
and operation has been incorporated in the enlarged new edi- 
tion. All kinds of lathe attachments for drilling, milling, 
etc., are described and complete instructions are given to 
enable the novice machinist to grasp the art of lathe oper- 
ation as well as the principles involved in design. A number 
of difficult machining operations are described at length and 
illustrated. The new edition has nearly 500 pages and 350 
illustrations. Trice, $3.00 

Turning and Boring Tapers. 

By Fred H. Colvin. There are two ways to turn tapers; 
the right way and one other. This treatise has to do with 
the right way; it tells you how to start the work properly, 
how to set the lathe, what tools to use and how to use them, 
and forty and one other little things that you should follow. 
Fourth edition. Price, 35 cents 

LIQUID AIR 

Liquid Air and the Liquefaction of Gases. 

By T. O'Conor Sloane. The third revised edition of this 
book has just been issued. Much new material is added 
to it; and the all important uses of liquid air and gas pro- 
cesses in modern industry, in the production especially of 
nitrogen compounds, are described- The book gives the his- 
tory of the theory, discovery, and manufacture of Liquid 
Air, and contains an illustrated description of all the ex- 
periments that have excited the wonder of audiences all over 
the country. It shows how liquid air, like water, is car- 
ried hundreds of miles and is handled in open buckets. It 
tells what may be expected from it in the near future. A 
book that renders simple one of the most perplexng chemical 
problems of the century. Startling developments illustrated 
by actual experiments. It is not only a work of scientific 
interest and authority, but is intended for the general read- 
er, being written in a popular style — easily understood by 
everyone. 400 pages fully illustrated. (1920.) Price, $3.00 

24 



LOCOMO TIVE ENGINEERING 
Air-Brake Catechism. 

By Robert H. Blackall. This book is a standard text book. 
It is the only practical and complete work published. Treats 
on the equipment manufactured by the Westinghouse Air 
Brake Company, including the E-T Locomotive Brake Equip- 
ment, the K (Quick-Service) Triple Valve for freight ser- 
vice; the L High Speed Triple Valve; the P-C Passenger 
Brake Equipment, and the Cross Compound Pump. The 
operation of all parts of the apparatus is explained in detail 
and a practical way of locating their peculiarities and rem- 
edying their defects is given. Endorsed and used by air- 
brake instructors and examiners on nearly every railroad 
in the United States. Twenty-sixth edition. 411 pages, fully 
illustrated with folding] plates and diagrams. New edition. 

Price, $2.50 

Application of Highly Superheated Steam to 
Locomotives. 

By Robert Garbe. A practical book which cannot be recom- 
mended too highly to those motive-power men who are 
anxious to maintain the highest efficiency in their locomo- 
tives. Contains special chapters on Generation of Highly 
Superheated < Steam; Superheated Steam and the Two-Cylinder 
Simple Engine; Compounding and Superheating; Designs of 
Locomotive Superheaters; Constructive Details of Locomo- 
tives Using Highly Superheated Steam. Experimental and 
Working Results. Illustrated with folding plates and tables. 
Cloth. Price, $3.00 

Combustion of Coal and the Prevention of Smoke. 

By Wm. M. Barr. To be a success a fireman must be "Light 
on Coal." He must keep his fire in good condition, and 
prevent, as far as possible, the smoke nuisance. To do this, 
he should know how coal burns, how smoke is formed and 
the proper burning of fuel to obtain the best results. He 
can learn this, and more too, from Barr's "Combustion of 
Coal." « It is an absolute authority on all questions relating 
to the firing of a locomotive. Fifth edition. Nearly 350 
pages, fully illustrated. Price, $1.50 

Diary of a Round-House Foreman. 

By T. S. Reilly. This is the greatest book of railroad experi- 
ences ever published. Containing a fund of information and 
suggestions along the line of handling men, organizing, etc., 
that one cannot afford to miss. 176 pages; Price, $1.25 

Link Motions, Valves and Valve Setting. 

Bv Fred H. Colvin, Associate Editor of "American Machin- 
ist." A handy book that clears up the mysteries of valve 
setting. Shows the different valve gears in use, how they 
work, and why. Piston and slide valves of different types 
are illustrated and explained. A book that every railroad 
man in the motive-power department ought to have. Fully 
illustrated, New revised and enlarged edition just published. 

Price, 75 cents 

25 



Train Rule Examinations Made Easy. 

By G. E. Collingwood. This is the only practical work on 
train rules in print. Every detail is covered, and puzzling 
points are explained in simple, comprehensive language, mak- 
ing it a practical treatise for the train dispatcher, engine- 
man, trainman and all others who have to do with the move- 
ments of trains. Contains complete and* reliable information 
of the Standard Code of Train Rules for'single track. Shows 
signals in colors, as used on the different roads. Explains 
fully the practical application of train orders, giving a clear 
and definite understanding of all orders which may be used. 
Second edition revised. 256 pages. Fully illustrated with < 
train signals in colors. Price, $1.50 

Locomotive Boiler Construction. 

By Frank A. Kleinhans. The only book showing how loco- 
motive boilers are built in modern shops. Shows all types of 
boilers used; gives details of construction; practical facts, 
such as life of riveting punches and dies, work done per 
day, allowance for bending and flanging sheets and other 
data that means dollars to any railroad man. Second edition* 
451 pages, 334 illustrations. Six folding* plates. Cloth. 

Price, $3.50 

Locomotive Breakdowns and Their Remedies. 

By Geo. L. Fowler. Revised by Wm. W. Wood, Air-Brake 
Instructor. Pocket edition. It is out of the question to try 
and tell you about every subject that is covered in this 
pocket edition of Locomotive Breakdowns. Just imagine 
all the common troubles that an engineer may expect to 
happen some time, and then add all of the unexpected ones, 
troubles that could occur, but that you had never thought 
about, and you will find that they are all treated with the 
very best methods of repair. Walschaert Locomotive Valve 
Gear Troubles, Electric Headlight Troubles, as well as Ques- 
tions and Answers on the Air Brake, are all included. Eighth 
edition. 294 pages. Fully illustrated. Price, $1.50 

Locomotive Catechism. 

By Robert Grimshaw. Twenty-eighth revised and enlarged 
edition. This may well be called an encyclopedia of the 
locomotive. Contains over 4,000 examination questions with 
their answers, including among them those asked at the first, 
second and third year's examinations. 825 pages, 437 illus- 
trations and 3 folding plates. Price, $2.50 

Westinghouse E. T. Air-Brake Instruction Pocket- 
book Catechism. 

By Wm. W. Wood, Air-Brake Instructor. A practical work 
containing examination questions and answers on the E. T. 
Equipment. Covering what the E. T. Brake is. How it 
should be operated. What to do when defective. Not a 
question can be asked of the engineman up for promotion 
on either the No. 5 or the No. 6 E. T. equipment that is not 
asked and answered in the book. If you want to thoroughly 
understand the E. T. equipment get a copy of this book. It 
covers every detail. Makes air-brake troubles and examina- 
tions easy. Fully illustrated with colored plates, showing 
various pressures. Cloth. (1920.) Price, $3.50 

26 



Practical Instructor and Reference Book for 
Locomotive Firemen and Engineers. 

By Chas. F. Lockhart. An entirely new book on the loco- 
motive. It appeals to every railroad man, as it tells him how 
things are done and the right way to do them. _ Written by 
a man who has had years of practical experience in locomotive 
shops and on the road firing and running. The information 
given in this book cannot be found in any other similar 
treatise. Eight hundred and fifty-one questions with their 
answers are included, which will prove specially helpful to 
those preparing for examination. 368 pages, 88 illustrations. 
Cloth. Price, $2.00 

Prevention of Railroad Accidents, or Safety in 
Railroading. 

By George Bradshaw. This book is a heart-to-heart talk 
with railroad employees, dealing with facts, not theories, and 
showing the men in the ranks, from every-day experience, 
how accidents occur and how they may be avoided. The 
book is illustrated with seventy original photographs and 
drawings showing the safe and unsafe methods of work. No 
visionary schemes, no ideal pictures. Just plain facts and 
practical suggestions are given. Every railroad employee 
who reads the book is a better and safer man to have in 
railroad service. It gives just the information which will be 
the means of preventing many injuries and deaths. All 
railroad employees should procure a copy; read it, and do 
their part in preventing accidents. 169 pages. Pocket size. 
Fully illustrated. Price, 50 cent* 

Walschaert Locomotive Valve Gear. 

By Wm. W. Wood. If you would thoroughly understand 
the Walschaert Valve Gear, you should possess a copy of 
this book. The author divides the subject into four divisions, 
as follows: I. Analysis of the gear. II. Designing and 
erection of the gear. III. Advantages of the gear. IV. Ques- 
tions and answers relating to the Walschaert Valve Gear. 
This book is specially valuable to those preparing for pro- 
motion. Third edition. 245 pages. Fully illustrated. Cloth. 

Price, $2.59 

MACHINE SHOP PRACTICE 



Modern Machine Shop Construction, Equipment 
and Management. 

By Oscar E. Perrigo. The only work published that describes 
the Modern Machine Shop or Manufacturing Plant from the 
time the grass is growing on the site intended for it until the 
finished product is shipped. Just the book needed by those 
contemplating the erection of modern shop buildings, the 
rebuilding and reorganization of old ones or the introduction 
of Modern Shop Methods, Time and Cost Systems. It is a 
book written and illustrated by a practical shop man for 
practical shop men who are too busy to read theories and 
want facts. It is the most complete all-around book of its 
kind ever published. Second edition. 384 pages, 219 original 
and specially-made illustrations. Price, $5.00 

27 



EVERY PRACTICAL MAN NEEDS 

A MAGAZINE "WHICH WILL TELL HIM 
HOW TO MAKE AND DO THINGS 



HAVE US ENTER YOUR SUBSCRIPTION 

to the best mechanical magazine on the market. 
Only Two Dollars a year for twelve numbers. Sub- 
scribe to-day to 



EVERYDAY ENGINEERING 



A monthly magazine devoted to practical mechanics for 
everyday men. Its aim is to popularize engineering as a 
science, teaching the elements of applied mechanics and 
electricity in a straightforward and understandable manner. 
The magazine maintains its own experimental laboratory, 
where the devices described in articles submitted to the 
Editor are first tried out and tested before they are pub- 
lished. This important innovation places the standard of 
the published material very high, and it insures accuracy 
and dependability.^ 

The magazine is the only one in this country that spe- 
cializes in practical model building. Articles in past issues 
have given comprehensive designs for many model boats, 
including submarines and chasers, model steam and gasoline 
engines, electric motors and generators, etc., etc. This 
feature is a permanent one in the magazine. 

Another popular department is that devoted to automobiles 
and airplanes. Care, maintenance, and operation receive 
full and authoritative treatment. Every article is written 
from the practical, everyday man standpoint, rather than 
from that of the professional. 

The magazine entertains while it instructs. It is a journal 
of practical, dependable information, given in a style that 
it may be readily^ assimilated and applied by the man with 
little or no technical training. The aim is to place before 
the man who leans toward practical mechanics a series of 
concise, crisp, readable talks on what is going on and how 
it is done. These articles are profusely illustrated with 
clear, snappy photographs, specially posed to illustrate the 
subject in the magazine's own studio by its own staff of 
technically-trained illustrators and editors.. 
The subscription price of the magazine is two dollars per 
year in U. S., two dollars and twenty-five cents in Canada 
and three dollars in foreign countries. Sample copy sent on 
receipt of twenty cents. 

28 



Machine Shop Arithmetic. 

By Colvin-Cheney. Most popular book for shop men. 
Shows how all shop problems are worked out and why. 
Includes change gears for cutting any threads; drills, taps, 
shink and force fits; metric system of measurements and 
threads. Used by all classes of mechanics and for instruction 
in Y M C. A. and other schools. Seventh edition. 131 
pages. Price ' 75 cents ' 

Abrasives and Abrasive Wheels. 

By Fred B. Jacobs. A new book for everyone interested in 
abrasives or grinding. A careful reading of the book _ will 
not only make mechanics better able to use abrasives intel- 
ligently but it will also tell the shop superintendent of 
many short cuts and efficiency-increasing kinks. The econ- 
omic advantage in using large grinding wheels are fully 
explained together with many other things that will tend to 
give the superintendent or workman a keen insight into 
abrasive engineering. 340 pages, 200 illustrations. This IE 
an indispensable book for every machinist. Price, $3.00 

American Tool Making and Interchangeable 
Manufacturing. 

By J V Woodworth. In its 500-odd pages the one subject 
only, 'Tool Making, and whatever relates thereto, is dealt with. 
The work stands without a rival. It is a complete practical 
treatise on the art of American Tool Making and system of 
interchangeable manufacturing as carried on to-day in the 
United States. In it are described and illustrated all of the 
different types and classes of small tools, fixtures, devices 
and special, appliances which are in general use in all ma- 
chine-manufacturing and metal-working establishments where 
economy, capacity and interchangeability in the production 
of machined metal parts are imperative. The science of jig 
making is exhaustively discussed, and particular attention 
is paid to drill jigs, boring, profiling and milling , fixtures 
and other devices in which the parts to be machined are 
located and fastened within the contrivances. All of the 
tools, fixtures and devices illustrated and described have 
been or are used for the actual production of work, such 
as parts of drill presses, lathes, patented machinery, type- 
writers, electrical apparatus, mechanical appliances, brass 
goods, composition parts, mould products, sheet metal arti- 
cles, drop forgings, jewelry, watches, medals, coins, etc. 
Second edition. 531 pages. Price, $4.50 

Henley's Encyclopedia of Practical Engineering 
and Allied Trades. 

Edited by Joseph G. Horner, A.M.I.Mech.E. This book 
covers the entire practice of Civil and Mechanical Engineer- 
ing. The best known experts in all branches of engineering 
have contributed to these volumes. The Cyclopedia is admir- 
ably well adapted to the needs of the beginner and the selt- 
taught practical man, as well as the mechanical engineer,, 
designer, draftsman, shop superintendent, foreman ana 
machinist. v TT , , , A 

It is a modern treatise in five volumes. Handsomely bound 
in half morocco, each volume containing nearly 500» pages, 
with thousands of illustrations, including diagrammatic and 
sectional drawings with full explanatory details. 
Price, $30.00. For the complete set of five volumes. 

29 



THE WHOLE FIELD OF MECHANICAL 

MOVEMENTS COVERED BY MR. 

HISCOX'S TWO BOOKS 



We publish two books by Gardner D. Hiscox that will 
keep you from "inventing" things that have been done be- 
fore, and suggest ways of doing things that you have not 
thought of before. Many a man spends time and money, 
pondering over some mechanical problem, only to learn, after 
he has solved the problem, that the same thing has been 
accomplished and put in practice by others long before. Time 
and money spent in an effort to accomplish what has al- 
ready been accomplished are time and money lost. The 
whole field of mechanics, every known mechanical movement, 
and practically every device is covered by these two books. 
If the thing you want has been invented, it is illustrated in 
them. If it hasn't been invented, then you'll find in them 
the nearest things to what you want, some movement or 
device that will apply in your case, perhaos; or which will 
give you a key from which to work. No book or set of 
books ever published is of more real value to the inventor, 
draftsman or practical mechanic than the two volumes de- 
scribed below. 

Mechanical Movements, Powers and Devices. 

By Gardner D. Hiscox. This is a collection of 1,890 
engravings of different mechanical motions and appliances, 
accompanied by appropriate text, making it a book of great 
value to the inventor, the draftsman, and to all readers 
with mechanical tastes. The book is divided into eighteen 
sections or chapters, in which the subject-matter is classified 
under the following heads: Mechanical Powers; Transmis- 
sion of Power; Measurement of Power; Steam Power; Air 
Power Appliances; Electric Power and Construction; Navi- 
gation and Roads; Gearing; Motion and Devices; Control- 
ling Motion; Horological; Mining; Mill and Factory Appli- 
ances; Construction and Devices; Drafting Devices; Miscel- 
laneous Devices, etc. Fifteenth edition. 400 octavo pages. 

Price, $4.00 

Mechanical Appliances, Mechanical Movements 
and Novelties of Construction. 

By Gardner D. Hiscox. This is a supplementary volume 
to the one_ upon mechanical movements. Unlike _ the first 
volume, which is more elementary in character, this volume 
contains illustrations and descriptions of many combina- 
tions of motiens and of mechanical devices and appliances 
found in different lines of machinery, each device being 
shown by a line drawing with a description showing its 
working parts and the method of operation. From the 
multitude of devices described and illustrated might be men- 
tioned, in passing, such items as conveyors and elevators, 
Prony brakes, thermometers, various types of boilers, solar 
engines, oil-fuel burners, condensers, evaporators, Corliss 
and other valve gears, governors, gas engines, water motors 
of various descriptions, air ships, _ motors and dynamos, 
automobiles and motor bicycles, railway lock signals, car 
couplers, link and gear motions, ball bearings, breech block 
mechanism for heavv guns, and a large accumulation of 
others of equal importance. 1,000 specially made engravings. 
396 octavo pages. Fourth revised edition. Price, $4.00 
30 



"Shop Kinks." 

By Robert Grimshaw. This shows special methods of doing 
work of various kinds, and releasing cost of production. Has 
hints and kinks from some of the largest shops in this 
country and Europe. You are almost iuire to find some that 
apply to your work, and in such a way as to save time and 
trouble. 400 pages. Fifth edition. Cloth. Price, $3.00 



Machine Shop Tools and Shop Practice. 

By W. H. Vandervoort. A woik of 555 pages and 673 illus. 
trations, describing in every detail the construction, opera- 
tion, and manipulation of both hand and machine tools. 
Includes chapters on filing, fitting, and scraping surfaces; 
on drills, reamers* taps, and dies; the lathe and its tools; 
planers, shapers, and their tools; milling machines and cut- 
ters; gear cutters and gear cutting; drilling machines and 
drill work; grinding machines and their work; hardening and 
tempering; gearing, belting, and transmission machinery; 
useful data- and tables. Sixth, edition. Cloth. Price, $4.50 



Model Making. 

By Raymond Francis Yates. A new book for the mechanic 
and model maker. This is the first book of its kind to be 
published in this country and all those interested in model 
engineering should have a copy. The first eight chapters are 
devoted to such subjects as Silver Soldering, Heat Treatment 
of Steel, Lathe Work, Pattern Making, Grinding, etc. The 
remaining twenty-four chapters describe the construction of 
various models such as rapid fire naval guns, speed hoats, 
model steam engines, turbines, etc. 

This book must not be confused with those describing the 
construction of toys now on the market. It is a practical 
treatise on model engineering and construction. 400 pages. 
301 illustrations. Price, $3.00 



The Modern Machinist. 

By John T. Usher. This book might be called a compen- 
dium of shop methods, showing a variety of special tools and 
appliances which will give new ideas to many mechanics from 
the superintendent down to the man at the bench. It will 
be found a valuable addition to any machinist's library^ and 
should be consulted whenever a new or difficult job is to 
be done, whether it is boring, milling, turning, or planing, 
as they are all treated in a practical manner. Fifth edition. 
320 pages, 250 illustrations. Cloth. Price, $2.50 



Threads and Thread Cutting. 

By Colvin and Stabel. This clears up many of the mysteries 
of thread cutting, such as double and triple threads, internal 
threads, catching threads, use of hobs, etc. Contains a lot 
of useful hints and several tables. Third edition. 35 cents 

31 



marine engineering 



The Naval Architect's and Shipbuilder's Pocket- 
book 

of Formulae, Rules, and Tables and Marine Engineer's and 
Surveyor's Handy Book of Reference. By Clement Mack- 
sow and Lloyd Woollard. The eleventh revised and en- 
larged edition of this most comprehensive work has just been 
issued. It is absolutely indispensable to all engaged in the 
Shipbuilding Industry, as it condenses into a compact form 
all data and formulae that are ordinarily required. The book 
is completely up to date, including among other subjects a 
section on Aeronautics. 750 pages, limp leather binding. 

Price, $6.0O net 

Marine Engines and Boilers, Their Design and 
Construction. The Standard Book. 

By Dr. G. Bauer, Leslie S. Robertson and S. Bryan Don- 
kin. In the words of Dr. Bauer, the present work owes its 
origin to an oft felt want of a condensed treatise embodying 
the theoretical and practical rules used in designing marine 
engines and boilers. The need of such a work has been 
felt by most engineers engaged in the construction and work- 
ing of marine engines, not only by the younger men, but also 
by those of greater experience. The fact that the original 
German work was written by the chief engineer of the 
famous Vulcan Works, Stettin, is in itself a guarantee that 
this book is in all respects thoroughly up-to-date, and that 
it embodies all the information which is necessary for the 
design and construction of the highest types of marine en- 
gines and boilers. It may be said that the motive power 
which Dr. Bauer has placed in the fast German liners that 
have been turned out of late years from the Stettin Works 
represent the very best practice in marine engineering of 
the present day. The work is clearly written, thoroughly 
systematic, theoretically sound; while the character of the 
plans, drawings, tables, and statistics is without reproach. 
The illustrations are careful reproductions from actual work- 
ing drawings, with some well-executed photographic views of 
completed engines and boilers. 744 pages, 550 illustrations, 
and numerous tables. Cloth. Price, $10.00 net 

MANUAL TRAINING 



Economics of Manual Training. 

By Louis Rouillion. The only book that gives just the in- 
formation needed by all interested in manual training, re- 
garding buildings, equipment and supplies. Shows exactly 
what is needed for all grades of the work from the Kinder- 
garten to the High and Normal School. Gives itemized lists 
of everything needed and tells just what it ought to cost. 
Also shows where to buy supplies. Illustrated. Second 
edition. Cloth, Price, $2.00 

32 



MINING 



Prospector's Field-Book and Guide. 

By H. S. Osborn. 1920 edition, revised and enlarged by 
M. W. von Bernewitz. The last edition of this volume was 
published in 1910. It and the previous seven editions were 
suitable for those times. The new ninth (1920) edition will 
be found suitable for the present time. While the old-time 
prospector will always be an important factor, the knowledge 
of and search for the common and rarer minerals is bringing 
out men who are trained to some degree. In the field they 
need a handy and suggestive pocket-book containing hints on 
prospecting — where to search and how to test — couched in 
simple terms. The chapter on preliminary instructions covers 
the fundamentals of a study of the earth's crust. Then fol- 
low discussions on practical mineralogy, crystallography, the 
value of the blowpipe in prospecting, surveying, and chemical 
tests in the field. Separate chapters are given to the precious 
and base metals, also to the non-metallic minerals. The 
chapter on the non-ferrous or alloy group of minerals is en- 
tirely new, while the section on oil has been expanded. Sur- 
ficial indications for copper receive full attention. The 
chapter on gems has been rewritten and matters concerning 
gemstones used for industrial purposes, such as abrasives, 
included. A general chapter covers many useful minerals 
and salts. An important guide and suggestive aid throughout 
the new book are the many brief descriptions of ore deposits 
of all minerals occurring in scattered parts of the world. 
No other prospector's book contains this class of information. 
In the appendix will be found numbers of useful tables, and 
a complete glossary of mining and mineralogical terms. The 
ninth edition of Osborn's "Prospector's Field Book and 
Guide" will be found up to date, worth while, and full value 
for the money asked. Flexible fabrikoid. 375 pages. 57 
illustrations. 1920 edition. Price, $3.00 



PATTERN MAKING 



Practical Pattern Making. 

By F. W. Barrows. This book, now in its second edition, 
is a comprehensive and entirely practical treatise on the 
subject of pattern making, illustrating pattern work in both 
wood and metal, and with definite instructions on the use 
of plaster of paris in the trade. It gives specific and detailed 
descriptions of the materials used by pattern makers and 
describes the tools; both those for the bench and the more 
interesting machine tools; having complete chapters on the 
lathe, the circular saw and the band saw. It gives many 
examples of pattern work, each one fully illustrated and 
explained with much detail. These examples, in their great 
variety, offer much that will be found of interest to all 
pattern makers, and especially to the younger ones, who are 
seeking information on the more advanced branches of their 
trade. Containing nearly 350 pages and 170 illustrations. 
Second edition, revised and enlarged. Price, $2.50 

33 



PERFUMERY 



Henley's Twentieth Century Book of Receipts, 
Formulas and Processes. 

Edited by G. D. Hiscox. The most valuable techno-chemical 
receipt book published. Contains over 10,000 practical re- 
ceipts, many of which will prove of special value to th« 
perfumer. Price, $4.00 

Perfumes and Cosmetics, Their Preparation and 
Manufacture. 

By G. W. Askinson, Perfumer. A comprehensive treatise, 
in which there has been nothing omitted that could be of 
value to the perfumer or manufacturer of toilet preparations. 
Complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, 
smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastiles; preparations for 
the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair, cosmetics, hair 
dyes and other toilet articles are given, also a detailed 
description of aromatic substances; their nature, tests of 
purity, and wholesale manufacture, including a chapter on 
synthetic products, with formulas- for their use. A book of 
general, as well as professional interest, meeting the wants 
not only of the druggist and perfume manufacturer, but also 
of the general public. Fourth edition much enlarged and 
brought up-to-date. Nearly 400 pages, illustrated, $5.00 



PLUMBING 



Standard Practical Plumbing. 

By R. M. Starbuck. This is a complete treatise and covers 
the subject of modern plumbing in all its branches. It 
treats exhaustively on the skilled work of the plumber and 
the theory underlying plumbing devices and operations, and 
commends itself at once to anyone working in any branch 
of the plumbing trade. A large amount of space is devoted 
to a very complete and practical treatment of the subjects of 
hot water supply, circulation and range boiler work. Another 
valuable feature is the special chapter on drawing for 
plumbers. The illustrations, of which there are three hun- 
dred and forty-seven, one hundred being full-page plates, 
were drawn expressly for this book and show the most 
modern and best American practice in plumbing construction. 
6/ 2 x9^. Cloth, 406 pages, 347 illustrations. Price, $3.50 

Mechanical Drawing for Plumbers. 

By R. M. Starbuck. A concise, comprehensive and practical 
treatise on the subject of mechanical drawing in its various 
modern applications to the work of all who are in any way 
connected with the plumbing trade. Nothing will so help 
the plumber in estimating and in explaining work to cus- 
tomers and workmen as a knowledge of drawing, and to the 
workman it is of inestimable value if he is to rise above his 
position to positions of greater responsibility. 150 illus- 
trations. Price, $2.00 

34 



Modern Plumbing Illustrated. 

By R. M. Starbuck. The author of this book, Mr. R. M. 
Starbuck, is one of the leading authorities on plumbing in 
the United States. The book represents the highest standard 
of plumbing work. A very comprehensive work, illustrating 
and describing the drainage and ventilation of dwellings, 
apartments and public buildings. The very latest and most 
approved methods in all branches of sanitary installation are 
given. The standard book for master plumbers, architects, 
builders, plumbing inspectors, boards of health, boards of 
plumbing examiners and for the property owner, as well 
as the workman and apprentice. It contains fifty-seven en- 
tirely new and large full pages of illustrations with descrip- 
tive text, all of which have been made specially for this 
work. These plates show all kinds of modern plumbing work. 
Each plate is accompanied by several pages of text, giving 
notes and practical suggestions, sizes of pipe, proper measure- 
ments for setting up work, etc. Suggestions on estimating 
plumbing construction are. also included. 407 octavo pages, 
fully illustrated by 57 full-page engravings. Price, $5.00 



RECIPE BOOK 



Henley's Twentieth Century Book of Recipes, 
Formulas and Processes. 

Edited by Gardner D. Hiscox. The most valuable techno- 
chemical formulae book published, including over 10,000 se- 
lected scientific, chemical, technological and practical recipes 
and processes. This book of 800 pages is the most complete 
book of recipes ever published, 'giving thousands of recipes 
for the manufacture of valuable articles for everyday use. 
Hints, helps, practical ideas and secret processes are revealed 
within its pages. It covers every branch of the useful arts 
and tells thousands of ways of making money and is just the 
book everyone should have at his command. The pages are 
filled with matters of intense interest and immeasurable prac- 
tical value to the photographer, the perfumer, the painter, 
the manufacturer of glues, pastes, cements and mucilages, 
the physician, the druggist, the electrician, the dentist, the 
engineer, the foundryman, the machinist, the potter, the 
tanner, the confectioner, the chiropodist, the manufacturer 
of chemical novelties and toilet preparations, the dyer, the 
electroplater, the enameler, the engraver, the provisioner, the 
glass worker, the goldbeater, the watchmaker and jeweler, 
the ink manufacturer, the optician, the farmer, the dairyman, 
the paper maker, the metal worker, the soap maker, the 
"veterinary surgeon, and the technologist in general. A book 
to which you may turn with confidence that you will find 
what you are looking for. A mine of information up-to-date 
in every respect. Contains an immense number of formulas 
that every one ought to have that are not found in any other 
work. 1920 edition. Cloth binding. Price, $4.00 



RUBBER 

Henley's Twentieth Century Book of Receipts, 
Formulas and Processes. 

Edited by Gardner D. Hiscox. Contains upward of 10,000 
practical receipts, including among them formulas on arti- 
ficial rubber. Price, $4.00 

Rubber Hand Stamps and the Manipulation of 
India Rubber. 

By T. O'Conor Sloane. This book gives full details of all 
points, treating in a concise and simple manner the elements 
of nearly everything it is necessary to understand for a 
commencement in any branch of the India rubber manu- 
facture. The making of all kinds of rubber hand stamps, 
small articles of India rubber, U. S. Government composi- 
tion, dating hand stamps, the manipulation of sheet rubber, 
toy balloons, India rubber solutions, cements, blackings, 
renovating varnish, and treatment for India rubber shoes, 
etc.; the hektograph stamp inks, and miscellaneous mtes, 
with a short account of the discovery, collection and manu- 
facture of India rubber are set forth in a manner designed 
to be readily understood, the explanation being plain and 
simple. Third edition. 175 pages, illustrated. Price, $1.25 

SAWS 



Saw Filing and Management of Saws. 

By Robert Grimshaw. A practical hand book on filing, 
gumming, swaging, hammering and the brazing of band saws, 
the speed, work, and power to run circular saws, etc. A 
handy book for those who have charge of saws, or for those 
mechanics who do their own filing, as it deals with the proper 
shape and pitches of saw teeth of all kinds and gives many 
useful hints and rules for gumming, setting, and filing, and is 
a practical aid to those who use saws for any purpose. Third 
edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated. Price, $1.50 

SCREW CUTTING 



Threads and Thread Cutting. 

By Colvin and Stable. This clears up many of the mysteries 
of thread cutting, such as double and triple threads, internal 
threads, catching threads, use of hobs, etc. Contains a lot of 
useful hints and several tables. Third edition. 35 cents 

STEAM ENGINEERING 



Horse-power Chart. 

Shows the horse-power of any stationary engine without 
calculation. No matter what the cylinder diameter or stroke; 
the steam pressure or cut-off; the revolutions, or whether 
condensing or non-condensing, it's all there. Easy to use, 
accurate, and saves time and calculations. Especially useful 
to engineers and designers. Price, 50 ccnt» 

36 



Steam Engine Troubles. 

By H. Hamkens. It is safe to say that no book has ever 
been published which gives the practical engineer such valua- 
ble and comprehensive information on steam engine design 
and troubles. There are descriptions of cylinders, valves, 
pistons, frames, pillow blocks and other bearings, connect- 
ing rods, wristplates, dashpots, reachrods, valve gears, gov- 
ernors, piping, throttle and emergency valves, safety stops, 
flywheels, oilers, etc. If there is any trouble with these 
parts, the book gives you the reasons and tells how to remedy 
them. 350 pages, 276 illustrations. Price, $2.50 

American Stationary Engineering. 

By W. E. Crane. A new book by a well-known author. 
Begins at the boiler room and takes in the whole power plant. 
Contains the result of years of practical experience in al! 
sorts of engine rooms and gives exact information that cannot 
be found elsewhere. It's plain enough for practical men and 
yet of value to those high in the profession. Has a complete 
examination for a license. Third edition revised and en- 
larged. 345 pages. 131 illustrations. Cloth. Price, $2.50 

Steam Engine Catechism. 

By Robert Grimshaw. This volume of 413 pages is not 
only a catechism on the question and answer principle, but 
it contains formulas and worked-out answers for all the steam 
problems that appertain to the ooeration and management of 
the steam engine. Sixteenth edition. Price, $2.00 

Boiler Room Chart. 

ByGEo. L. Fowler. A chart — size 14 x 28 inches — showing 
in isometric perspective the mechanism belonging in a modern 
boiler room. The various parts are shown broken or re- 
moved, so that the internal construction is fully illustrated. 
Each part is given a reference number, and these, with the 
corresponding name, are given in a glossary printed at the 
sides. Price, 25 cents 

Engine Runner's Catechism. 

By Robert Grimshaw._ Tells how to erect, adjust and run 
the principal steam engines in use in the United States. The 
work is of a handy size for the pocket. To young engineers 
this catechism will be of great value, especially to those who 
may be preparing to go forward to be examined for certifi- 
cates of competency} and to engineers generally it will be 
of no little^ service, as they will find in this volume more 
really practical and useful information than is to be found 
anywhere else within a like compass. 387 pages. Seventh 
edition. Price, $2.00 

Modern Steam Engineering in Theory and Prac- 
tice. 

By Gardner D. Hiscox. This is a complete and practical 
work issued for stationary engineers and firemen dealing 
with the care and management of boilers, engines, pumps, 
superheated steam, refrigerating machinery, dynamos, motors, 
elevators, air compressors, and all other branches with which 
the modern engineer must be familiar. Nearly 200 questions 
with their answers on steam and electrical engineering, likely 
to be asked by the examining board, are included. Third 
edition, 487 pages, 405 engravings. Cloth. Price, $3.50 

37 



,j n * 



Steam Engineer's Arithmetic, 

By Colvin-Cheney. A practical pocket book for the steam 
engineer. Shows how to work the problems of the engine 
room and shows "why." Tells how to figure horse-power 
of engines and boilers; area of boilers; has tables of areas and 
circumferences; steam tables; has a dictionary of engineering 
terms. Puts you onto all of the little kinks in figuring what- 
ever there is to figure around a power plant. Tells you about 
the heat unit; absolute zero; adiabatic expansion; duty of 
engines; factor of safety; and 1,001 other things; and every- 
thing is plain and simple — not the hardest way to figure, 
but the easiest. Second edition. Price, 75 cents 

STEAM HEATING and VENTILATING 



Practical Steam, Hot-Water Heating and Ven- 
tilation. 

By A. G. King. This book has been prepared for the use 
of all engaged in the 1 business of steam, hot-water heating 
and ventilation. Tells how to get heating contracts, how to 
install heating and ventilating apparatus, the best business 
methods to be used, with "Tricks of the Trade" for shop 
use. Rules and data for estimating radiation and cost and 
such tables and information as make it an indispensable 
work for everyone interested in steam, hot-water heating and 
ventilation. It describes all the principal systems of steam, 
hot-water, vacuum, vapor and vacuum-vapor heating, together 
with the new accelerated systems of hot-water circulation, 
including chapters on up-to-date methods of ventilation and 
the fan or blower system of heating and ventilation. Second 
edition. 367 pages, 300 detailed engravings. Cloth. $3.50 

500 Plain Answers to Direct Questions on Steam, 
Hot-Water, Vapor and Vacuum Heating Prac- 
tice. 

By Alfred G. King. This work, just off the press, is ar- 
ranged in question and answer form; it is intended as a 
guide and text-book for the younger inexperienced fitter 
and as a reference book for all fitters. All long and tedious 
discussions and descriptions formerly considered so important 
have been eliminated, and the theory and laws of heat and 
the various old and modern methods and appliances used 
for heating and ventilating are treated in a concise manner. 
This is the standard Question and Answer examination book 
on Steam and Hot Water Heating, etc. 200 pages, 127 illus- 
trations. Octavo. Cloth. Price, $2.00 



STEEL 



Hardening, Tempering, Annealing and Forging 
of Steel. 

By J. V. Woodworth. A book containing special directions 
for the successful hardening and tempering of all steel tools. 
Milling cutters, taps, thread dies, reamers, both solid and 
shell, hollow mills, punches and dies, and all kinds of sheet- 

38 



metal working tools, shear blades ? saws, fine cutlery and 
metal-cutting tools of all descriptions, as well as for all 
implements of steel, both large and small, the simplest, and 
most satisfactory hardening and tempering processes are 
presented. 320 pages, 250 illustrations. Fourth edition. 
Cloth. p **ce, $3.00 

Steel: Its Selection, Annealing, Hardening and 
Tempering. 

By E. R. Markham. This work was formerly known as 
"The American Steel Worker," but on the publication of the 
new, revised edition, the publishers deemed it advisable to 
change its title to a more suitable one. This is the standard 
work on hardening, tempering, and annealing steel of all 
kinds. This book tells how to select, and how to work, 



temper, harden, and anneal steel for everything on earth. 
It is the standard book on selecting, bardening, and tern- 
steel. 400 pages. \ 

TRACTORS 



pering all grades of steel. 400 pages. Very fully illustrated. 
Fourth edition. Price, $3.00 



The Modern Gas Tractor. 

By Victor W. Page. A complete treatise describing all 
types and sizes of gasoline, kerosene, and oil tractors. Con- 
siders design and construction exhaustively, gives complete 
instruction for care, operation ard repair, outlines all prac- 
tical applications on the road and in the field. The best 
and latest work on farm tractors and tractor power plants. 
A work needed by farmers, students, blacksmiths, mechanics, 
salesmen, implement dealers, designers, and engineers. Second 
edition revised and much enlarged. 504 pages. Nearly 300 
illustrations and folding plates. Price, $3.00 

TURBINES 



Marine Steam Turbines. 

By Dr. G. Bauer and O. Lasche. Assisted by E. Ludwig 
and H. Vogel. Translated from the German and edited 
by M. G. S. Swallow. The book is essentially practical and 
discusses turbines in which the full expansion of steam 
passes through a number of separate turbines arranged for 
driving two or more shafts, as in the Parsons system, and 
turbines in which the complete expansion of steam from inlet 
to exhaust pressure occurs in a turbine on one shaft, as in 
the case of the Curtis machines. It will enable a designer 
to carry out all the ordinary calculation necessary for the 
construction of steam turbines, hence it^ fills a want which 
is hardly met by larger and more theoretical works. Numer- 
ous tables, curves and diagrams will be found, which explain 
with remarkable lucidity the reason why turbine blades are 
designed as they are, the course which steam takes through 
turbines of various types, the thermodynamics of steam tur- 
bine calculation, the influence of vacuum on steam consump- 
tion of steam turbines, etc. In a word, the very information 
which a designer and builder of steam turbines most requires. 
Large octavo, 214 pages. Fully illustrated and containing 
18 tables, including an entropy chart. Price, ?4.00 net 

39 



The Most Valuable Techno-Chemical Recipe 
Book Ever Offered to the Public ! 

Henley's Twentieth Century Book of 

RECIPES, FORMULAS 
AND PROCESSES 

Price $4.00 

This book of 800 pages is the most complete Book of Recipes 
ever published, giving thousands of recipes for the manu- 
facture of valuable articles for every-day use. Hints, Helps, 
Practical Ideas and Secret 
Processes are revealed within 
its pages. It covers every 
branch of the useful arts and 
tells thousands of ways of mak- 
ing money and is just the book 
everyone should have at his 
Command. 

The pages are filled with 
matters of intense interest and 
immeasurable practical value to 
the Photographer, the Perfumer, 
the Painter, the Manufacturer 
of Glues, Pastes, Cements and 
Mucilages, the Physician, the 
Druggist, the Electrician, the 
Dentist, the Engineer, the 
Foundryman, the Machinist, the 
Potter, the Tanner, the Con- 
fectioner, the Chiropodist, the 
Manufacturer of Chemical Nov- 
elties and Toilet Preparations, 
the Dyer, the Electroplater, the 
Enameler, the Engraver, the Provisioner, the Glass Worker, 
the Goldbeater, the Watchmaker and Jeweler, the Ink Manu- 
facturer, the Optician, the Farmer, the Dairyman, the Paper 
Maker, the Metal Worker, the Soap Maker, the Veterinary 
Surgeon and the Technologist in general. 

A book to which you may turn with confidence that you 
will find what you are looking for. A mine of information, 
up-to-date in every respect. Contains an immense number 
of formulas that every one ought to have that are not found 
in any other work. 

1 A AAA Practical Formulas and Processes 

1U,UUU The Best Way to Make Everything 

ONE USEFUL RECIPE WILL BE WORTH MORE 
THAN TEN TIMES THE PRICE OF THE BOOK 

(See page 35 for further description of the book.) 
40 



t,f % f J!* \U Boo»< of — -^3 



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"Everyday's" articles are prepared by many of the best technical journalists 
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